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Old Jun 04, 2013, 09:27 PM
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GWS warbirds

Hello folks. I have been in the RC airplane hobby for well over 30 years now and have recently been enlightened to the wonder of GWS birds. For years I was a 4 stroke glow RC snob that scoffed at any ARF let alone an electric foam ARF. I have been converting over to electric for the simple convince of it. Playing around with large to medium foam ARF planes got me hooked on electric foam planes of any sort. I decided to get a GWS Corsair just for fun and to fool with not knowing it would start a GWS obsession for me. I have two Corsairs and one P 40. With any luck by the end of the week I will have my Spitfire, Zero and E-starter delivered. If I could find the rest of the EPO warbirds in stock I would have all of them. GWS ARF's are hit and miss in stock at all of the sites I frequent. Any help finding the rest of the planes would be of great help to me and my quest to fill another room of the house with planes.

The GWS Corsair in my opinion is the perfect airframe when it comes to a plane that can be thrown into the trunk of a car for that fly anywhere/anytime moment. The Corsair flies very well with just about any motor thrown into it, not many planes can do that at all let alone well. The plane cares not what size battery goes into it as well. Here is a vid of my combat GWS Corsair with a 480 plus motor on 4s spinning a glow 10x6 prop. The plane was very nose heavy and still flew great. In my opinion this GWS Corsair is testimony to how well the folks at GWS designed this plane. I'm sure they did not design it to be this fast nor handle the G's it takes but it sure does it in stride. The blue Corsair is set up with a 450 sport motor and 3s with full throws. I will have to make a vid of the blue one banking and yanking, twisting and snapping every way but loose. Both Corsairs have many hours and motors burnt up in them and the airframes just wont fail. Hats off to the folks at GWS for knocking this one out of the ballpark. We need to keep the interest alive in these wonderful little birds. I would hate to see GWS fade away because of all of the fly out of the box planes to be had. Share your pics and vids and lets keep GWS making new planes


GWS Corsair with a 480 plus on 4s (5 min 23 sec)
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Old Jun 06, 2013, 08:22 PM
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Great ! It's the fastest Corsair I've ever seen. A 480 with 4S and the glow 10x6 really did something great on it. What I want to say is GWS worked out their warbirds far earlier, about 6 more years earlier than other brands' ones. They seemed to release EPO birds from the same moulds of their older EPS birds instead of releasing any new birds since 4 years ago.
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Old Jun 07, 2013, 06:31 PM
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Hey there twn Chen. Even if GWS doesn't make new planes it would be nice to be able to buy the ones they already make. I have a hard time finding many of the warbirds in EPO. Some folks like the EPS foam birds but I cant imagine that it can hold up to any real flying or any real power. I understand that GWS designed the planes to fly on much less power than I put to them but they sure fly great with lots of power. The size, price, overall quality and fly ability of the GWS birds make them very attractive to me. I just wish I could find them in EPO.
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Old Jun 09, 2013, 11:41 PM
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Hi semperfi1970, probably you could find out some of the kits you want from Caliber Hobby, BP hobbies or another online ones from California and Florida.
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Old Jun 10, 2013, 07:45 PM
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Twn Chen, I do visit Headsuprc, Caliberhobby, Frchobbies and GWSprops very often. I did manage to order a EPO Zero and a EPO Spitfire from Frchobby but almost two weeks later they have not come in the mail yet. I fail to find a P51, AT6, 109 and a 190 in EPO. I am in the middle of building a EPO E Starter just because they were in stock. E Starter, warbird it is not but I bet it will be fun to fly with a 450 sport motor with a 1060 prop on it. I can find the P 51 and the PT 17 in EPS but would rather have EPO as I tend to fly rather aggressively and like to over power everything. I bet the EPS planes fly well but cant imagine they would hold up to much in the air let alone on the ground. Here is a pic of the E Starter so far. Trainer yes but I bet it will be as aerobatic as the rest. I have toyed with the idea of building a Formosa but do not care for a pattern type plane as they are not that much fun to fly in that they go where you point them, not much challenge there.
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Old Jun 13, 2013, 08:03 PM
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Oh your setup is going to make your E-Starter as speedy as an warbird, be reminded to add more epoxy to the reinforcement rod under its main wing. GWS Spitfire might be with much more challenge than others if you forgot to reduce its elevator throw.
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Old Jun 14, 2013, 05:00 PM
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Twn chen, I ended up using a 370 size motor in the E-starter. So I understand the Spitfire can be a handful. I will start the Spit out with a 450 and go to a 480 if not pleased. With any luck the 450 in the Spit will make for a nice flying plane. One is to assume the Spit with a 480 on 4s should be a 100mph plus plane. The Corsair has to be forced to go fast as the airframe is a pig with its big round nose. I am still waiting for my Spit and Zero to show up in the mail, Filadelfos hobby is taking forever to ship my order. It has been over two weeks and no show, to think they are located less than 250 miles away I have never ordered from them before, I am use to Headsuprc delivering in 3 days and they are 1300 miles away.
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Old Jun 15, 2013, 07:04 AM
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Got a few questions...

Hi Semperfi1970,

I Finally got around to starting on the GWS Corsair!!! You know, I really like the size of this plane. I had always said that I wished someone made a smaller wing span Corsair, something more appropriate in size to the area I have to fly in. The GWS Corsair size is perfect with respect to being a better fit for my flying field.

She is painted in the Krylon Fushion Blue that you recommended. I still want to do some trim work on the bottom in gray, which I'll do once she's totally complete.

GWS included a supplemental instruction sheet for those wanting to install separate servos for each aileron, and I was wondering which method is best. As you know, the manual calls for a single servo, using both sides of the control horn, to actuate the aileron servos, or you can follow the supplemental instruction sheet they provided, cut some holes in the wing behind each aileron for positioning of the servos, and actuate the ailerons off of their own dedicated servo, using the groove that runs the width of the wing to route a "Y" connector.

The groove that runs the length of the wing could be used for a carbon fiber rod to reinforce the wing, and it may be that I read that in the manual; I don't recall where I picked up that idea.

But, if you use the dedicated servo method, I assume you forfeit using a carbon fiber rod, since that wing channel is used for the Servo/"Y" connector wiring.

I was just wondering which method is better, having the carbon fiber rod in the groove, or using that groove for the wiring needed to independently control the aileron servos. Is there an advantage to using two separate servos versus the single servo method?

Also, they're recommending CA hinges on the elevator, rudder, and ailerons. Do you recommend I use the CA hinges, or is there a better hinge method for the control surfaces?

I used the CA hinge method on the rudder of the Slow Stick, and noticed that the joint is very stiff, and that it even taxed the foam a bit more than I would have like when the surfaces actuated. But, the Slow Stick foam is pretty thin, so it may not be analogous to using the CA hinges on the GWS Corsair control surfaces.
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Old Jun 15, 2013, 08:38 PM
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I used two wing servos on my Corsair and channeled the servo wiring through that groove and over to the center of the wing where the leads poke through to the top side. The groove cannot be used for carbon reinforcent due to the shape of the gullwing.

I prefer dual wing servos on most my models, and definitely for the Corsair because the gullwing can make aileron linkage installation a challenge, and even if you're succeful it's likely to bind with rotation. But that's just my opinion.

Also, I apply a thin coat of epoxy on my CA hinges rather than CA. CA will attack and disolve EPS foam, but is ok to use on EPO.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1970 View Post
Twn chen, I ended up using a 370 size motor in the E-starter. So I understand the Spitfire can be a handful. I will start the Spit out with a 450 and go to a 480 if not pleased. With any luck the 450 in the Spit will make for a nice flying plane. One is to assume the Spit with a 480 on 4s should be a 100mph plus plane. The Corsair has to be forced to go fast as the airframe is a pig with its big round nose. I am still waiting for my Spit and Zero to show up in the mail, Filadelfos hobby is taking forever to ship my order. It has been over two weeks and no show, to think they are located less than 250 miles away I have never ordered from them before, I am use to Headsuprc delivering in 3 days and they are 1300 miles away.
Semperfi1970, I think that a 450 1000KV + prop 10 x 6 + 3S is powerful enough to make the Spit crazy, in my idea a 480 on 4s will be way much more than crazy. But you might prefer the 480 one from what you did on your Corsair. It's better to add some reinforcements to the Spit that will be powered by a 480 on 4S. Be reminded to contact Filadelfos hobby for the shipment, it's been over two weeks, hopefully, they did not forget your order.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 10:10 AM
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To clarify, I used foam safe CA on the Slow Stick build, and that was what I was referring to. But, I do like the idea of epoxy much better. But, truthfully, I don't really like the foam safe CA hinges. I don't like the idea of slicing into the foam, and recessing them in there. It seems like it could be a weak link with respect to the integrity of the hinge joints, plus you have to be really careful that you don't cement the control surface to the fuselage in the process.

I had considered just using 3M tape for hinges, but then I would have to relieve the foam so that the throws will move equally in both directions. I don't like the idea of relieving the foam material either, as it kind of destroys the clean lines of the formed foam, and makes it look bad. Plus, the 3M tape seems fine for a Slow Stick, but may not hold well on a Corsair, which is capable of a lot more stresses than a Slow Stick.

I'll probably stick with the "CA style" fiber hinges, and use the epoxy as you suggested, unless I hear of an alternative method that appeals to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phoam View Post
I used two wing servos on my Corsair and channeled the servo wiring through that groove and over to the center of the wing where the leads poke through to the top side. The groove cannot be used for carbon reinforcent due to the shape of the gullwing.

I prefer dual wing servos on most my models, and definitely for the Corsair because the gullwing can make aileron linkage installation a challenge, and even if you're succeful it's likely to bind with rotation. But that's just my opinion.

Also, I apply a thin coat of epoxy on my CA hinges rather than CA. CA will attack and disolve EPS foam, but is ok to use on EPO.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Quizcat, good to hear you are still around. Hurry up and get that Corsair in the air. I have found great results using the supplied plastic GWS hinges on all of my GWS birds. I just pre flex the hinges before gluing them in and razor knife the glue surfaces on the hinge to make a better bonding surface on the plastic. As far as the aileron servo or servos go I prefer a single servo. I feel there is an advantage to one servo because the wing is left clean and all linkages hidden. Some claim a single servo with the linkage following the gull is slow and sloppy. I find that with one servo running both ailerons they tend to be more responsive and precise because they are doing the same exact thing every time. As far as reinforcing the EPO Corsair wing, I just don't see a need for it. There have been a few times that I thought my wings should have folded but they don't. I tend to play hard with my toys and have yet to stress an airframe on any GWS plane.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 10:30 AM
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Ok, thanks very much for the advice! Yeah, spent some time building a couple of Slow Sticks first, then a Bixler 2. But, the Corsair is my focus now. So, as I proceed through the build, I may be asking your opinion.

With regard to the fabric hinges, I'll pre-work them a bit, and score their surfaces for better adhesion. What kind of glue are you using on them, the GO2 Glue?

It may just be my imagination, or did I read somewhere in the forums, that the wing can be reinforced with carbon rod? But, I'll take your word for it. No need to do it if it's not necessary. But, I just happen to have some carbon rod around here, and thought that if it needed it, I would have no problem popping one in that slot. But, I haven't really tried prefitting one. As Phoam indicated in his post, it may not be a good fit with the gull wing shape, and I hadn't thought of that...


Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1970 View Post
Quizcat, good to hear you are still around. Hurry up and get that Corsair in the air. I have found great results using the supplied plastic GWS hinges on all of my GWS birds. I just pre flex the hinges before gluing them in and razor knife the glue surfaces on the hinge to make a better bonding surface on the plastic. As far as the aileron servo or servos go I prefer a single servo. I feel there is an advantage to one servo because the wing is left clean and all linkages hidden. Some claim a single servo with the linkage following the gull is slow and sloppy. I find that with one servo running both ailerons they tend to be more responsive and precise because they are doing the same exact thing every time. As far as reinforcing the EPO Corsair wing, I just don't see a need for it. There have been a few times that I thought my wings should have folded but they don't. I tend to play hard with my toys and have yet to stress an airframe on any GWS plane.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 06:56 PM
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Hey Quiz. I use CA glue or epoxy on my hinges. I guess you could use Go2 glue, I almost think I used it on the blue Corsair 100%. If your Corsair is EPO there is zero need for any reinforcement anywhere on the plane. I do things to the little Corsair that one would think would make it fail but it just keeps going strong. I tell ya Quiz, if you like the Slowstick you will love the E-Starter. The E-Starter is way more fun to fly. I just maiden one like Friday and have another on order to make it into an aerobat using a 450 motor. The little plane flies so stable that I fly it around just feet off of the ground. Check out the vid I put on the "All things GWS" thread. The little E-Starter is underpowered by my doing but flies like a dream. The next one will be an overpowered aerobat sporting a crazy paint job.

Twn Chen. I gave up on Filadelfos as I placed the order 21 days ago, left two e-mails and called many times with zero response from them. The kicker is that they show the Spitfire and Zero in stock and they are EPO. To bad for Filadelfos because I would have bought a crap load of stuff from them like I do with Headsuprc. I guess the Spit and Zero just wasn't meant to be from them. The problem is that I fail to find much in the EPO GWS line up anywhere. I would order factory direct if I could. Makes me wonder if GWS is on its way out. If that is the case I would be very sad as I just love there planes. There must be somebody out there selling the GWS EPO planes.
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Old Jun 16, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Unique paint jobs are your specialty!

Is the GWS Corsair EPO or EPS? How can you tell if they're EPO or EPS...I can't seem to find it on the literature?

I enjoyed building the Slow Sticks, and think they're a great training ground for learning how to build, experimenting with building methods, specifying components, etc...The two SS's I built are like night and day. SS #1 is 28.6 ounces, lots of upgrades, and SS#2 is just 18 ounces, and totally stock, no upgrades. The only reason I build two was because I upgraded SS#1 so much, and I had a bunch of left over parts from the original kit that I just didn't use. So, I built SS #2 using all the left over stuff from SS#1, bought a hardwood stick from Lowes, and all I had to order were the power train, electronics, and the wing/rudder/elevator, etc...It was very economical to build SS#2 because I almost had the complete kit left over from SS#1.

Ever since I got the Corsair, I've been eyeballing the other models in the GWS line. I've heard that the E-Starter is a great model. But, I've had my eye on one of their other war birds once the Corsair is done, and I may get one of them. I do have a Parkzone T28, and they're kind of expensive, but very stable, probably very similar to the E-Starter with respect to stability. But, if you crash the T-28, it costs you dearly. So, I've been eyeing the E-Starter as kind of a backup to the T-28. Maybe an E-Starter, then to satisfy the war bird craving, an FW190, or ME109, or a P51, or all three eventually, who knows.

The bottom line is, I've decided that building is the best way to go, contrary to my initial intentions, which were to buy something fancy, something already decked out., etc...I've realized that for about $35 from GWS, you can build it yourself, and then you have intimate knowledge of the plane, and you're an expert on every nuance of it. And, the consequences of crashing something that costs only $35 is significantly easier on the bank account than crashing something that comes all decked out, and costs 8 times that.



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The next one will be an overpowered aerobat sporting a crazy paint job.
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