Originally Posted by mattchase

Be careful, it won't ever let you change it again if you name it that!

i know right...cause he is alive!!

LOL! It's kinda creepy now though

Rusty

Originally Posted by 13brv3

LOL! It's kinda creepy now though

Rusty

ehh...gives it character...im processing some video from it now...ill post it here...i filmed in 1080-60 on my gph2 and i have very little jello....using your camera mount rings with the isolators and the then i have 4 extra rubber stoppers that i installed as well seems to work pretty well...

the props and motors probably arent balanced...if i take the time to do that i may be able to get rid of all the jello....but this was mainly a test for the new fc.

EDIT: here is the video i was talking about

first stable flight of the MWC 2.0 FC quad (1 min 28 sec)

Originally Posted by 13brv3

I still this is the coolest variation I've seen from a customer! I just love it, and with all the FPV style frames out there now, I'm thinking of making this as an actual product. A single center tube would work fine for small copters, but maybe two central tubes would be used for larger copters.

Very cool

Rusty

Hi, thanks I am glad you like it, I think I way have some vid of it flying, I will post something in a few days.

I would love to see a product that would utilize the double width clamps in a T configuration. I will send you a photo of the way I have it set up atm.

I have tried double boom, it flexed/warped was hard to keep aligned, it hits the ground HARD a lot.
The longest I have done is 45cm as a central boom . It was still stiff and no flex.

EDIT:
I had a look at the vid i have from yesterday, faulty motor caused 3 crashes, the third is very bad and shows a full force, awkward angle crash, the only thing broken is 3 props.

i also have a few picks that are uploading now, i will link the pix and vid once they are uploaded.

EDIT 2:

here is a link to the pix
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1bczkma7vi10jwy/gZlTEbODQm

and a link to some minor crashes

iCopter Crash's (2 min 24 sec)

Today I assembled the UAP1 frame in hexa setup, but the question is what are the best dementions and props sizes.
I want to use NTI 750KV motors , F30A hobbyking ESC with simonk firmware.
The motor to motor distance is now 75cm ( 29,5 Inch ) , the prop size I want to use is 11x4,7
Will this setup work ?! or do I need to reduce or increase the frame size or props sizes

Originally Posted by pascalw

Today I assembled the UAP1 frame in hexa setup, but the question is what are the best dementions and props sizes.
I want to use NTI 750KV motors , F30A hobbyking ESC with simonk firmware.
The motor to motor distance is now 75cm ( 29,5 Inch ) , the prop size I want to use is 11x4,7
Will this setup work ?! or do I need to reduce or increase the frame size or props sizes

What flight controller are you using?

What size motors are you using and are you flying with 3s or 4s batteries?

Unfortunately I don't think there is a best size, it depends on your needs. I prefer a smaller copter and have mine about as small as I think it can be and still handle my camera, which is about 25.5" mtm, using 13" booms. With 11x4.7 props this gives me about 2" of space between props which is probably a little narrow but so far is working ok. I am already thinking about extending my booms a few more inches in the future so that I can use larger motors / props, but I don't know when that will happen, and I am sure I won't go past 30" MTM. I think I remember reading Rusty or Hansen say that for an AP rig between 25" - 28" was a good range for MTM distances, but I'm not sure if that was for any copter or specifically for a quad or hexa. So you are pretty close with your current size, and I know there are plenty of people flying with larger MTM distances who are happy with their copters. I started off with a much larger copter (it was about 34" MTM) and it flew pretty well and was really easy to see from a distance, but it was so big that I had a hard time getting it through my narrow hallways or into my smallish car.

Why does Rusty's Anti-Vibration Motor Mounts come with those nylon spacers?

Is it just to clear the bolt attaching the motor mount to the arm, or does it actually serve a purpose in vibration dampening? Can the cross-piece of the motor just be attached directly to the top half of the grommet?

Pretty sure it's for clearance. Spacer + washer also spreads the load a bit more evenly across the grommet, but you could probably just use the washer. It would be close to the attachment bolts

Originally Posted by lineofsight

Why does Rusty's Anti-Vibration Motor Mounts come with those nylon spacers?

Is it just to clear the bolt attaching the motor mount to the arm, or does it actually serve a purpose in vibration dampening? Can the cross-piece of the motor just be attached directly to the top half of the grommet?

Rusty's anti vibration motor mounts comes with three types of nylon items.

1) The big round and fly nylon washers. They go on the top and bottom of the grommet to spread the load.

2) The skinny round tube like nylon insert. They are necessary to go inside the hole of the grommet. That is to prevent the grommet from getting smashed by the bolt.

3) The 1/4" O.D. 1/4" tall nylon spacers. Those are to lift the motor and cross piece away from the motor mounting plate in case the bottom of the motor is hitting the plate for some reason. You don't need to use these if the motor is not hitting.

I actually use them to space the cross piece from my pancake motor so I can fit a nut there.

Are the anti-vibration motor mounts something to be used only if I'm noticing vibration in my videos but otherwise don't bother or is there some benefit to using them regardless of the situation? In other words, will they necessarily improve flight or is there any sort of downside?

My video is pretty darn stable but I'm always game for improvements of any kind.

Originally Posted by lineofsight

Why does Rusty's Anti-Vibration Motor Mounts come with those nylon spacers?

Is it just to clear the bolt attaching the motor mount to the arm, or does it actually serve a purpose in vibration dampening? Can the cross-piece of the motor just be attached directly to the top half of the grommet?

Correct that the spacers are required to clear the block screws. The more distance you can put between your prop and the arm tubes the better as far as prop induced vibration goes, but 1/4" won't even be noticeable.

The round washers will spread the load over the entire grommet better than the arms of the motor mount will, but there's no harm in trying it without the washer.

Cheers,
Rusty

Originally Posted by dcoplan

Are the anti-vibration motor mounts something to be used only if I'm noticing vibration in my videos but otherwise don't bother or is there some benefit to using them regardless of the situation? In other words, will they necessarily improve flight or is there any sort of downside?

My video is pretty darn stable but I'm always game for improvements of any kind.

No one will have a definitive answer for that question. The grommet mounts absolutely reduce vibration, but the more important question is whether that vibration is causing you problems. Some FC boards are more sensitive to vibration than others, and your camera dampers may or may not be taking all of it out of the video.

In theory, the motors can tilt slightly in maneuvering, so they could cause some issues with flight control. There's a very dedicated group of people who claim terrible things will happy, but I've never seen it, and I've never read an account from anyone else who's seen a negative effect from the grommets. I probably wouldn't put them on a sport aerobatic copter, but I do use them on all copters that will get an AP camera.

Rusty

What convinced me to buy the anti-seismic motor mounts was when some one else posted that they had thrown unbalanced props on their copter and still had vibration free flights. I have a full set of props balanced pretty well and while I don't mind doing it, I certainly wouldn't mind NOT having to do it!

Another reason is something that I don't know if it will hold true or not. I have been using 30 durometer hemispheres for my gimbal isolation which work pretty well for absorbing vibrations, but because they are so soft they have some give to them (the plates have just a bit of sway) that can show up in high winds or quicker copter movements. My hope is that adding the anti-vibration motor mounts will cut down the initial vibes going through the copter enough that I can use some stiffer isolators on the gimbal, which would help keep it from having any sway. And yes, I'm considering a pug bar as well.

PS. Now you tell me what the smaller spacers are for!

Originally Posted by mattchase

What size motors are you using and are you flying with 3s or 4s batteries?

Unfortunately I don't think there is a best size, it depends on your needs. I prefer a smaller copter and have mine about as small as I think it can be and still handle my camera, which is about 25.5" mtm, using 13" booms. With 11x4.7 props this gives me about 2" of space between props which is probably a little narrow but so far is working ok. I am already thinking about extending my booms a few more inches in the future so that I can use larger motors / props, but I don't know when that will happen, and I am sure I won't go past 30" MTM. I think I remember reading Rusty or Hansen say that for an AP rig between 25" - 28" was a good range for MTM distances, but I'm not sure if that was for any copter or specifically for a quad or hexa. So you are pretty close with your current size, and I know there are plenty of people flying with larger MTM distances who are happy with their copters. I started off with a much larger copter (it was about 34" MTM) and it flew pretty well and was really easy to see from a distance, but it was so big that I had a hard time getting it through my narrow hallways or into my smallish car.

I want to use my DJI naza controller on 4S , 4S is the max for the F30A ESC.

So it will be try and error......