SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 11:05 AM
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sounds about like what I have seen on other sites.

Ed,
Did you use tams spinner?? that is what I have here, and it is not wanting to go on the 800 shaft. Also measuring the motor, it is identical out at both ends of the case, but is .002 larger in the middle area where the armature is. And it fits loosely in the Fred Baldwin center body, will need the thermal paste. In addition I have to remove some of the stock stator screws from the shroud assy. and take a few thousands off the ends which were protruding into the center body opening.
Roger
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 11:32 AM
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Roger:

My Dynamax setup uses the Tams hub and spinner as well as the center body. Only Dynamax parts are the blades, shroud and stators.

I too found that the Tams hub would not go on the 800 shaft (8mm). I determined that the hole in the back of Tams hub was under size by a few thousandths of a mm. I went to my local tool supply company (these guys sell quality stuff so don't go to harbor Freight or even Lowes or Home Depot) and got an 8mm drill bit. Turns out that the 8mm bit is actually 7.99 and the hole in the Tams hub is about 7.95 or so. Anyway, I put the bit in the drill press and VERY CAREFULLY "cleaned" the hole out. Once I did this the shaft fit into the hub, but it was a good snug fit.

Ed
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 01:35 PM
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hub fits now

I took some 600 grit wet or dry sand paper and worked the motor shaft , rotating it as I worked, and rolled up some of the 600 paper and rotated the roll inside of the bushing. The hub now slides on nicely, but still a little snug. Ed did you put any loc-tite on the motor mount screws? Did you balance the rotor assy? Also, after the flights did you check the motor temp at all?? Just curious, I have what I have now.
Roger
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 04:08 PM
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Roger:

Yes, I did use the blue locktite on the screws that mount the motor to the center body. No, do not try to balance the rotor (hubs and blades). They are just fine as is. In fact, one time about 20 years ago I spent the entire day trying to balance the Dynamax rotor. I could not get it to balance so I called Tom Cook. He "scolded" me for trying to balance the unit. His comment to me was that all of the blades are within 3 grams of each other and no need to balance. In fact, the rotor runs more smoothly when in Tams hub than when on the Dynamax hub. I believe part of this because of the machine work by Tams guys and part of that is because we are using a prop adapter for our Dynamax units and some bushings to get everything for fit.

I did not do a temp check on the ESC or the motor but when I was using the Scorpion outrunner I believe the motor temp was about 120 and the ESC was about 110. One thing you need to keep in mind is that you need to try to get some air to the batteries. Mine would usually come down with temps in the 115 to 125 area. Don't know how you are going to arrange your packs but I have three 4 S packs and to try to keep the temps down I use some pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" x 1" between the batteries to allow some air flow between the packs.

Ed
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Old Sep 11, 2014, 05:18 PM
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cooling air

on the Byron kit there is a tri angular molded piece that is also contoured to the fuselage curvature which fits up against the inlets with the wide end, and then tapers forward. When the splitter plates are glued to that piece which is 5/16 thick it creates the proper look for the splitter plates. However that also leaves a dead air space behind the splitter, above that triangle trapping air between that triangle and the leading edge strakes. I am thinking of cutting a NACA type opening in there to get that air into the fuselage for cooling air. The air can then travel back to the series of holes I have in the bifurcated exhaust duct supports and out. I am at this point unsure about battery location, but am considering : in front of inlet duct Y, and possibly in the shelfs to which the wings attach?
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 04:38 PM
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more on cooling air

not sure how necessary it is to put inlet for air, with geardoors, and hatches etc. But, these pics show what I have in mind if needed. the piece of blue tape indicates where I would put air in, next pic shows that area covered with the intake splitterplate. And the third show the air out location. In addition, I see the inlet as using some of the air which would pile up in behind the splitter.
What do you guys think???
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 04:46 PM
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Ron-E-Max

Here it is guys the heart of the beast.
127mm Dynamax new in the box.................... $75.00
Fred Baldwin centerbody , in a trade................$ 0.00
Tams spinner........................................... ...................$95.00
HET 800-68-685 motor from Efflux RC.........$159.00
-----------
$329.00

weight 2lbs and .5ozs.
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Where did you get the fan unit?
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 09:59 PM
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fan unit

stock dynamax for os91 new in box , I got it from guy on here, for $75. Then I bought another one stock, that came with a Scorpion 4035 motor and Dyn-e-max centerbody, and a Elec. jet factory adapter all for $125. I sold that for $125 and kept the Dyn-e-max centerbody. Then bought Tams spinner and the HET motor. Then followed Ron101 instructions from page one of this thread and assembled it all myself.
So all and all, got my fan unit for a bargain. Now gotta look for a deal on a ESC and get some batteries 6s 6000mah or more. Building this plane on a shoestring budget.
Roger
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 10:34 PM
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fan unit

/saved twice don't see a place to delete???
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 11:32 PM
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You got a good deal I have a Dynamax with 4035-630 Im putting in a Byron F16, have you checked out the Yep 120? After reading about them here on RCG I purchased one, haven't used it yet but for less than 100 bucks they sound like a good unit, might be worth a look.
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Old Sep 15, 2014, 11:53 PM
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yep 120s are awesome. i highly recomend!
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Old Sep 16, 2014, 12:05 AM
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Yep 120 HV current buddy code , don't wait to long was put up on the 12th.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=188 --- make sure your logged in at HK first

I think the price was 88.76?
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Old Sep 17, 2014, 12:28 PM
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Esc

Thanks guys for the input . As I am very low in EDF experience. My Phase3 f-16,
hasn't given me any real understanding of this stuff. I am expecting this fan set up to show full throttle amps in 130-135 range on 12s, and while I don't anticipate a lot of full throttle flying I want to build in some "head room" into my esc choice. So as I see it right now I will be looking at either a YEP 180, or a Ice HV2 160. I definitely want to end up with the capability to add in another two cells for (14s), just in case this big ole F-18 needs some more mojo. I haven't run this fan on more than 3s yet. But did that just so I could check the motor smoothness, and the spinner/hub for trueness(per Tams) video. That all checked out good so I assembled the rotor. A run up again with my 3s pack blew all the loose stuff on my work bench off the table. LOL. Thinking about wiring it up with two 3s pack for a 6s run for fun .
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Old Sep 17, 2014, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetjock50 View Post
Thanks guys for the input . As I am very low in EDF experience. My Phase3 f-16,
hasn't given me any real understanding of this stuff. I am expecting this fan set up to show full throttle amps in 130-135 range on 12s, and while I don't anticipate a lot of full throttle flying I want to build in some "head room" into my esc choice. So as I see it right now I will be looking at either a YEP 180, or a Ice HV2 160. I definitely want to end up with the capability to add in another two cells for (14s), just in case this big ole F-18 needs some more mojo. I haven't run this fan on more than 3s yet. But did that just so I could check the motor smoothness, and the spinner/hub for trueness(per Tams) video. That all checked out good so I assembled the rotor. A run up again with my 3s pack blew all the loose stuff on my work bench off the table. LOL. Thinking about wiring it up with two 3s pack for a 6s run for fun .
JJ:
I have a number of different ESC's I use. I tend to use the Castle ESC's when I want to log data from different fan systems and then I have some of the YEP 120 amp ESC's. They both work well. The Castle 160 amp ESC's are only capable of 12S max setup so if you are thinking of going to 14S at some time then consider some other brand. I would suggest that you consider 160 or higher amps ESC which will give you some headroom. One thing to keep in mind is whether or not the motor is capable of handling 14S. If you are using the HET 800 series motors they can handle a max of 14 cells per the manufacturer.

Ed
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