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Old Apr 27, 2016, 11:57 AM
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Radian for C.A.P. 2016

Well, the occasion to build the Radian was the 2012 Brit Kit build off (se this thread).
It was the first time for me to convert a control line model into an electric R/C.
Unluckily, the model did not survive the maiden and as I normally do in such cases, I put the remains in a cardboard box and left with other models needing cares and went ahead with other projects.
From time to time, I resume one of this models and I restore it. Now It's time to fix the Radian and see if I’ll be able to make it fly.
While the fuselage was heavily damaged, the wing shows minor nicks and a small tear on the covering, the tail feathers are intact and the turtle deck has a bump and an hole were it meets the firewall.
My intention is to rebuild just the fuselage and use the other parts. Actually, since I found that such a small model was not easily visible in air, I prefer to change the coloring of the wing in order to better see if it flies leveled or inverted. This means I will re-cover the wing instead of mending the rip.
The photo shows the pieces I will use and where I am at the moment. The wing now is naked and I need to repair a couple of scratches on the leading edge, the ailerons are separated from the wing and the turtledeck requires only a bit of micro ballon and sanding and now it's almost finished and waiting to be airbrushed.
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Last edited by Guizzo 17; Apr 27, 2016 at 12:08 PM. Reason: I forgot the link!
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Old Apr 27, 2016, 12:33 PM
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I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Good luck Guizzo - I'm prepared to bet that you make it fly this time!
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Old May 04, 2016, 03:58 PM
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Not much to show you at the moment I just completed to patch up the wing and than I covered it with Mylar.
At the same time I cut balsa and plywood pieces to building the fuselage.
With Corel Draw I prepared the design to print on the tissue.
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Old May 05, 2016, 08:13 AM
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Guizzo, that's a really nice model. It should be a great flier.
I too tend to put away broken models for future repair. Still have an old Dirty Birdi that needs a new wing.
John
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Old May 05, 2016, 03:15 PM
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Thanks for your sustainement John! I have models waiting for repairs for more than 20 years. I wander why I take them. Their conditions during the time are not improving!!


I have printed the light modelspan and I'm quite sure that with this colors the asset of the model will be more dischernable now. Clearer colors are applied on the top.
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Old May 06, 2016, 01:51 AM
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So I'M meant to be in control?
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Is that laser or inkjet printed, Guizzo? Is there no problem with the ink running when wetted or doped?
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Old May 06, 2016, 12:28 PM
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It's an ink-jet printer, my Colonel!
No problem with the ink running, providing you glue the paper with nitrate dope. You just need a second hand of dope to completely waterproof the covering. Of course, do not try to varnish using PVA based dope!

I tried different brands of ink and I always had the same result: the color do not runs.
However, printing on Esaky, the brush wipes the color and it runs a bit. I think it happens because the Esaky do not adsorbs the ink inside the fibers of the paper.

Try brushing an old ink-jet printed paper sheet with nitrate dope and see what happens. This is the simplest way to see if I'm right or wrong.

I used a Laser printer too but with nitrate dope, the brush streaks the color and you end with unwanted stripings.
Though I bet that the ink do not runs using PVA based dopes.

The following are some pictures taken while i'm applying the modelspan with nitrate dope.
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Old May 12, 2016, 03:57 PM
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I Haven't found the time to post but I went ahead and now the wing has the covering complete and is waiting for the fuselage.
Assembling the fuselage was an easy task since it is composed by few parts and, although I do not like much cyano, I used it extensively and I glued almost all the pieces. Differently from the previous fuse, I simplified the landing gear installation and made it lighter; I intend to make a substantial reduction of the final weight so the electric parts will be the following:
Two TGY-1440 Servos, (10g total),
Motor 18-11 2000kv Micro Brushless Outrunner (10g),
12A Trixx speed controller (9g),
2.4 micro Receiver (10g),
Zippy Flightmax 350 mAh Battery (22g).
and this saves 64 gram compared with the former Radian. This is not bad for a wing of 6 dm2 only!
I also simplified the paint on the covering and made a more conventional design.
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Old May 18, 2016, 10:52 AM
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Guizzo, your checker board pattern looks great. Looks like you have the art down to a science. I haven't the will to mask and paint checker boards anymore, though I'm still hoping to finish up my Lancer with a bit of checker board pattern on the wing.
John
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Old May 18, 2016, 04:32 PM
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Very kind of you, Aviator! Though it's easy to do with a ink-jet printer, once you know how to use a drawing program. Actually it took me quite a lot to learn by trials and errors!

I still had things to do and not time to post. I hope to be able to show some pictures next week, enyhow I should say that I have already re-maidened the Radian, and this time with succes!
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Old May 19, 2016, 03:23 AM
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Glad to hear that Guizzo; finally getting a model that was a roblem to fly is almost better than it flying first time - almost but not quite!!
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Old May 27, 2016, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer View Post
Glad to hear that Guizzo; finally getting a model that was a roblem to fly is almost better than it flying first time - almost but not quite!!
I agree SD. At least it gives you the feeling to be able to solve a problem!

I had little time to seat and write what I made during the last days, so I resume here how I proceeded.
Completed the wing covering, I glued it to the fuselage and I glued the tail fins.
Done this. I could sew the ailerons to the wing and fit servos.

As I always do, when I have the chance, I make a glide test with the model still incomplete in order to establish whether the position of the C/G is correct or requires major adjustments.
Of course this is not an accurate and precise test, but it's safe and shows major problems if they exists. Beyond that, I wanted to check how responsive the ailerons were since I had crashed the first Radian due to over-sensitive ailerons.

To tame the model I used a Bluearrow BA-G2J1 piezo gyro connected between the receiver and the aileron servo and, in order to keep model weight and speed down, I tested the Radian without motor and turtledeck and positioning the electricals to get the C/G at 25% of the maximum wing chord, (this position is close to the 25% of the mean wing chord). With double sided tape, I fixed a piece of rubber foam to the bulkhead with the double function of protecting the model during hand launches and to get the C/G right where I wanted it.

Glide tests on tall grass showed that the model could fly and the gyro was keeping the model roll stable.

After this test I installed the motor and re-arranged the electronics inside the fuselage to maintain the C/G where it was.

The following flight was powered. I hand launched the model and while the gyro was working maintaining the model level, I gave a couple of clicks of down trim to the elevator. Roll rate was slow and C/G a bit too far forward but everything was working properly and after a couple of minutes I decided to land which I did safely with no damages.
I returned in my shop to move the C/G a bit more rearward and added a couple of degrees of downtrust.

During the following days I made other flights gaining confidence and correcting the behavior of the Radian which likes to fly fast! I found that the best position for the C/G was at 31% of the maximum wing chord but just a couple of percents more rearwards, the model becames very uncomfortable; a bit forward and stalls abruptly lowering the nose!

I reduced the gyro gain a bit at a time and when I felt comfortable, I decided to complete the model with motor cowl and nosecone and fly without gyro.

The following flight lasted 0 seconds since I launched the model in a clumsy way and the fuselage broke! Luckily, Cyano makes marvels in this cases and the following day I flew the Radian with motor cowl, nosecone and no gyro.

I don't have shots of the model in flight yet, since it is small, difficult to aim and my camera doesn't have long lenses; add to this that I lack a good cameraman!
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