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Old Mar 07, 2014, 07:49 AM
Sports scale builder
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The tail wheel is done for now, just finishing details and final tuning is left to do.


The linkage is the same as on the prototype. I did not change anything and it works but again not the best as far as the way the doors look when open. They need to be further apart but this will work.


Two #72 counter sunk alen screws hold the aluminum bracket to the door.


I just did a direct connect test to my air pump and the door pops right open as soon as I turn the pump on so no binding. This has a bit to do with the location of the linkage on the door and the new hinges. If I want the doors to be more open I can move the linkage down the door but then the resistance may be greater. I will look at it before I bondo the surface for finishing.


I glued in some aluminum tubing I had laying around for the two screws that hold the gear in at the top. This allows for me to just drop in the screws and they will find there place. plus it finishes this area off.


Next onto the scoop area and the canopy.

TB
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 02:34 PM
Sports scale builder
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Canopy sled and Actuator.

I am working on the canopy sled and actuator.

I have the Firgelli actuator installed and I did a better job this time.

This time I am threw bolting it to the reinforced former #6 with a 2-56 and a blind not toped off with a nylon nut. On the prototype I used a wood screw and it failed. I also moved it back about a 1/4"

I am also doing the tube that houses the ram differently too. Having the larger cut out with the carbon sub skin makes the install much easier and better at that.

The Firgelli is held in place at the appropriate location as is the tube.

The ram needs to be level with the top of the fuselage for the sled to work without binding, it can get tricky.

I cut the carbon sub skin and this will house the magnets for the hatch and I will bolt the sled frame down onto this. I will glue it in and skin with 1/16" balsa, then cut the hatch and sled in.

I built the canopy sled and it is ready to detail and install. It will be bolted to the carbon sub skin after I cut the balsa.

The hatch will get cut in and that will finish this the Firgelli installation.

I need to install the side slides next to make sure the canopy slides as it should.



TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 07, 2014 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Mar 08, 2014, 08:46 AM
Sports scale builder
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Sled

I revised the way I am doing the sled and the actuator. I did not like the way it was done with the prototype and I did not like the way it was turning out.

So I removed the carbon tube for the actuator ram. previously it was to hold the ram in place and to keep the canopy from lifting as it closed. This created drag on the actuator and was hard to get just right. So I redesigned the sled so that the bracket that slides on the sled and holds the canopy is now riding on the rails from top to bottom.

Next I will install the canopy side rails while I wait on the skins to dry.



TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 08, 2014 at 09:04 AM.
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Old Mar 08, 2014, 03:05 PM
Sports scale builder
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The skins are in and cut, all came out pretty good.


I am bolting down all hatches that are not meant to come off for fueling, air and batteries. Bolting sucks them tight into place and I had some fall off on landings .

Here is a short video showing the sled in motion.

canopy 1 004 (0 min 24 sec)



TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 08, 2014 at 03:11 PM.
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Old Mar 08, 2014, 03:15 PM
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Here is a short video showing how the actuator moves up and down as the sled moves back and forth. This is why I caned the tube guide.

canopy 1 017 (0 min 26 sec)


TB
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 10:43 AM
Sports scale builder
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Canopy

I have the canopy side slides installed and a working canopy. Having the parts from the prototype really has helped move this along and it has made building a lot more fun. It takes a lot of work to make a canopy like this.

I am now working on one of the access hatches. On the prototype I had all my hatches attached with magnets only. This was a pain because I would set them down, they would and could get steeped on, or lost so I will hinge the ones that get used on pre flights and post flights.


I may do the same for the battery switch hatch.


Here is a short video of the canopy at work

canopy 2 009 (0 min 31 sec)




TB
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Old Mar 10, 2014, 11:16 AM
Sports scale builder
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I have been working on the main access hatch, what a pain. This is my first off set hinge job so there was a learning curve....... but I got it

It took some time to get the hatch to fit flush and to get it to have the panicle lines that I require.



TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 10, 2014 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2014, 08:02 AM
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I think I will go with a UP3 gear valve for my gear and doors, just seams the way to go, even though I have the electronic controller that works fine.



http://www.electrodynam.com/store/Retracts.html


TB
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:31 AM
Sports scale builder
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I finished the second access hatch today. This one is for my switches.

I am using HD MPI switches this time. On the Prototype I was using Fromeco Badger electronic failsafe switches. I have been having a few isues with the switches so I pulled them from my fleet.

First you cant charge threw the charging jack. So that is not good. Second you cant use some chargers like hyperon, they burn up the switch. third they have been failing. I had one go bad in my Sbach on the ignition so I do not trust them anymore. I have tried to contact Kurt about this and haven't heard back from him so I am done with them.

The hatch has two 1/4" magnets at the top so I will try and come up with a better way then using a tool to open the hatches like on the prototype. Maybe some sort of feature that is part of the detailing that will work as a push to break the seal of the magnets and allow the door to fall open. I would like this for the first hatch too.



Lets see........... what's next?



TB
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 02:48 PM
Sports scale builder
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Hand hold

I made my hand hold out of G-10 and carbon fiber laminate.

The frame is made of aircraft ply, 3/32" with two pieces of G-10 sandwiched in between to create the space for the handle arm.
A #72 button head screw threaded into the G-10 provides the pivot point.


The frame is glued in and the handle can be removed by removing the screw.

This will open my access hatch for my switches.
There is a small piano wire linked to the arm and to a small arm at the door.

The arm opens about 3/4 of the way before it starts to push the door open. The handle can be pulled out without opening the door for static display during "the show" and it has enough tension to hold it closed or open simply by how tight the screw is turned in.

The idea was not to have it spring the door open but to just break the seal of the magnets and to raise the hatch enough to pull it open.

I need to build one more but not hooked to anything. I will also do something similar for the main hatch. Just need to find the right detail to use



TB
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Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 12, 2014 at 03:03 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 05:21 PM
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How's your weight progress? Are you tracking less at this point than last time? Just curious.
Edwin
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 05:28 PM
Sports scale builder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwin1 View Post
How's your weight progress? Are you tracking less at this point than last time? Just curious.
Edwin
Not keeping track, but I think my tail is lighter then the prototype so that should help, less glass/ resin. I don't have anything to measure agents short of final weight. If it comes out to be the same weight then that will be fine, if it is lighter that is fine too, at this point I don't worry about it. She will look good siting in the shad at a fly in

TB
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Old Mar 13, 2014, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonybuilder View Post
Not keeping track, but I think my tail is lighter then the prototype so that should help, less glass/ resin. I don't have anything to measure agents short of final weight. If it comes out to be the same weight then that will be fine, if it is lighter that is fine too, at this point I don't worry about it. She will look good siting in the shad at a fly in

TB
It'll look good in the air too.
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Old Mar 14, 2014, 06:23 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonybuilder View Post
Not keeping track, but I think my tail is lighter then the prototype so that should help, less glass/ resin. I don't have anything to measure agents short of final weight. If it comes out to be the same weight then that will be fine, if it is lighter that is fine too, at this point I don't worry about it. She will look good siting in the shad at a fly in

TB
I have the same attitude towards weight. It's difficult to build a detailed scale model without adding it. In the end, they weigh what they weigh.
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