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Old Sep 16, 2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DepronMan View Post
With OFS it does not 'fight' against the control inputs

Rolls and loops are perfectly smooth in calm conditions, in windy conditions you can see the model being corrected, I guess it has to move in order for the stabiliser to sense the movement and apply the correction, it appears as a slight shake in flight.

Paul
Great!
Today I got perfectly calm conditions when I noticed all this.
I can understand with more wind you see the model correct, no problem.

I just ordered a programmer on e-bay.
Now wait and start reading for me.

Thx.
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Old Sep 16, 2014, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 0crap View Post
Great!
Today I got perfectly calm conditions when I noticed all this.
I can understand with more wind you see the model correct, no problem.

I just ordered a programmer on e-bay.
Now wait and start reading for me.

Thx.
just double check that the USBasp programmer that you have ordered is switchable for 5 volts and 3.3 volts. Ask me how I know, well I got a 5 volts only one from hobby king, if you check out the instructions in the google documents on post one you will see some warnings in yellow highlight, these where added by JohnRB asa direct result of my 5 volts USBasp and the damage that I did to the Atmel168pa chip and subsequent replacement of said chip.
Now you can use a 5Volt USBasp, but follow the instructions to the letter, particularly the sequence that you connect and disconnect the USBasp and the external power to the stabiliser, or you can make life a lot simpler by using a 3.3volt USBasp in the first place. I bought once from Ebay, but only after the above escapade (My soldering skills where tested to the max )
Best of luck with the flashing
Paul
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Old Sep 16, 2014, 05:30 PM
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If you buy a 5v version cut the power output wire and remove it. That way you will never blow anything up
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Old Sep 17, 2014, 03:37 PM
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From the picture on ebay it should have a 3.3 - 5V jumper.
Lets hope it's true.
It also includes a 10 pin to 6 pin adapter for AVRISP.

From what I read a lot is told about the HK onchip programming cable.
I don't want to go that route, expensive and not needed if you have a AVRISP connector on the stabilizer unit.

Guess I only need to figure out how to wire the 10->6 pin adapter to the AVRISP header on the stabilizer.
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Old Sep 17, 2014, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 0crap View Post
From the picture on ebay it should have a 3.3 - 5V jumper.
Lets hope it's true.
It also includes a 10 pin to 6 pin adapter for AVRISP.

From what I read a lot is told about the HK onchip programming cable.
I don't want to go that route, expensive and not needed if you have a AVRISP connector on the stabilizer unit.

Guess I only need to figure out how to wire the 10->6 pin adapter to the AVRISP header on the stabilizer.
I found a diagram on google that shows the 10 to 6 wiring, let me know if you can't find it as I have it written down in the workshop and can let you have the info.
It sounds like you have bought the same USBasp from ebay that I got, suggest that if you have multi meter you check the ground to +Vcc with the jumper in both positions to ensure that the jumper does indeed change the output voltage from 5v to 3.3v.
I bought the HK over chip connector, but I don't like it. It is difficult to keep it properly connected for the total time needed to read and write and verify the atmel168. I much prefer to solder temporary wires to the 6 pins at the bottom of the servo connections (v3) or the edge connector pads on either side of the board on the (v2).
I flash the bootloader using the USBasp, then load the firmware using a single fire FTDI adaptor connected to the appropriate servo connection. This means that the USBasp connection wires are only ever needed once.
Further updating of the firmware is then a simple connection to the servo connection, which can be done with the stabiliser in the model, but I have to disconnect the other servo leads - I'm not sure that this is necessary for everyone, but mine will not connect with the servos / ESC connected to the stabiliser.
FTDI adaptors are under 5 on ebay plus a few pence for the diode and resistor.
You would also be well advised to buy a programming box from HK and flash it as it makes programming the stabiliser sssooooooooo much easier
Paul
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Old Sep 17, 2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0crap View Post
From the picture on ebay it should have a 3.3 - 5V jumper.
Lets hope it's true.
It also includes a 10 pin to 6 pin adapter for AVRISP.

From what I read a lot is told about the HK onchip programming cable.
I don't want to go that route, expensive and not needed if you have a AVRISP connector on the stabilizer unit.

Guess I only need to figure out how to wire the 10->6 pin adapter to the AVRISP header on the stabilizer.
IMO if you have to do three stab. units, the time you save using the HK programer wire worths the 15-16 usd alone. Plus then you can use the bootloader with the one wire programmer to flash ofs.
Is 15 usd realy that expensive?
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DepronMan View Post
I found a diagram on google that shows the 10 to 6 wiring, let me know if you can't find it as I have it written down in the workshop and can let you have the info.
It sounds like you have bought the same USBasp from ebay that I got, suggest that if you have multi meter you check the ground to +Vcc with the jumper in both positions to ensure that the jumper does indeed change the output voltage from 5v to 3.3v.
I bought the HK over chip connector, but I don't like it. It is difficult to keep it properly connected for the total time needed to read and write and verify the atmel168. I much prefer to solder temporary wires to the 6 pins at the bottom of the servo connections (v3) or the edge connector pads on either side of the board on the (v2).
I flash the bootloader using the USBasp, then load the firmware using a single fire FTDI adaptor connected to the appropriate servo connection. This means that the USBasp connection wires are only ever needed once.
Further updating of the firmware is then a simple connection to the servo connection, which can be done with the stabiliser in the model, but I have to disconnect the other servo leads - I'm not sure that this is necessary for everyone, but mine will not connect with the servos / ESC connected to the stabiliser.
FTDI adaptors are under 5 on ebay plus a few pence for the diode and resistor.
You would also be well advised to buy a programming box from HK and flash it as it makes programming the stabiliser sssooooooooo much easier
Paul
Thx for the info.
My USBasp should include a 10P->6P converter already.
I assume it's wired like the pic below I found on the web.
I only need to figure out how to wire the 6P connector to the stabilizer.
If I open the stabilizer I hope to find the needed info on the PCB mask.

Sure looks like a great plan to use a FTDI adapter for future use.
And it seems like a better plan to spend a few bucks on the program box, rather than a on-chip program cable.
Stuff adds up on the end and it should stay a fun and cheap project.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 06:57 AM
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Well, browsing the web I'm going to wire it to my USBasp like below.
If anyone can confirm this works would be great.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 02:06 PM
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Well, browsing the web I'm going to wire it to my USBasp like below.
If anyone can confirm this works would be great.
from memory that looks correct, just double check with a multimeter that earth on the 6 pins is earth on one of the servo connection pins (simple continuity check), also worth check the +5volts in the same way. If earth ans +5volts are correct the rest will be correct.

Paul
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DepronMan View Post
from memory that looks correct, just double check with a multimeter that earth on the 6 pins is earth on one of the servo connection pins (simple continuity check), also worth check the +5volts in the same way. If earth ans +5volts are correct the rest will be correct.

Paul
Great, I'll double check voltage to confirm the picture above.
If we use the AVRISP interface, do we really need any power from the USBasp?
When powering the stabilizer from a 5V BEC it's maybe better NOT to use the USBasp (+3.3V) voltage at the same time?

Also not sure which .hex file to flash.
20140322_RX3S_V2.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_AILR_IN_ON_RUD_IN.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_CPPM.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_SBUS.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_SPEKTRUM.hex

I'm flashing a RX3S with DSM2 Compatible 6CH 2.4Ghz Receiver, so I guess the ...V2_Spektum.hex is needed?
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 0crap View Post
Great, I'll double check voltage to confirm the picture above.
If we use the AVRISP interface, do we really need any power from the USBasp?
When powering the stabilizer from a 5V BEC it's maybe better NOT to use the USBasp (+3.3V) voltage at the same time?

Also not sure which .hex file to flash.
20140322_RX3S_V2.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_AILR_IN_ON_RUD_IN.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_CPPM.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_SBUS.hex
20140322_RX3S_V2_SPEKTRUM.hex

I'm flashing a RX3S with DSM2 Compatible 6CH 2.4Ghz Receiver, so I guess the ...V2_Spektum.hex is needed?
if you are using a USBasp running at 3.3volts you don't power from the 5volt BEC, just the USBasp is used to power and flash the stabiliser.
your are correct in using the RX3S_V2.hex file, the V2 & V3 both use the same firmware (hex file), the V2 as numerous methods of connecting to the receiver, hence the CPPM, SBUS and spektrum versions. on a V2 if you connecting via the multi servo leads then again use the V2.hex file

Paul
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 03:48 PM
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Thx for helping out Paul, I'll use the V2.hex file.

Still a bit concerned about the "Connecting the usbasp while the RX3S is not powered will most likely destroy the ATmega168PA." which I read from the manual.

Is this warning only valid with the on-chip programmer cable?
Sure it's OK to use the 3.3V from the USBasp when using the AVRISP header? (Without BEC.)

Edit: After re-reading the manual it seems this warning is only valid if you use a 5V USBasp. (And need to disable the power from the USBasp.)
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 04:39 PM
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Thx for helping out Paul, I'll use the V2.hex file.

Still a bit concerned about the "Connecting the usbasp while the RX3S is not powered will most likely destroy the ATmega168PA." which I read from the manual.

Is this warning only valid with the on-chip programmer cable?
Sure it's OK to use the 3.3V from the USBasp when using the AVRISP header? (Without BEC.)

Edit: After re-reading the manual it seems this warning is only valid if you use a 5V USBasp. (And need to disable the power from the USBasp.)
you are correct after your re reading. Ask me how I know (that warning in the instructions was added after my escapades with a 5volt USBasp )

your more than welcome, let me know how you get on

Paul
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Old Yesterday, 08:08 AM
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Thx for sharing Paul, it's no fun bricking an ATmega168PA with 5V.

For sure I report back my findings.
Can take a few weeks, I have to wait for the USBasp I grabbed from ebay.
Usually ebay stuff gets here three weeks after shipping.
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