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Old Sep 10, 2013, 02:17 PM
Launch high, go long
LostVisual's Avatar
Boise, ID
Joined Sep 2006
357 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincoln View Post
3M book tape has been recommended for this use by other flyers. I've got some and it seems quite substantial. I favor polyester tape with an acrylic adhesive. Takes a day to reach full strength but sticks harder.

If you're paranoid, you can do the ends of the control surface and/or the area near the control horn with s-hinges:
http://www.modelaircraft.org/mag/ftg...1/31main2.html
You could also do the whole hinge that way. If done correctly, these are very tough.
I'll look into those tapes. I'd forgotten about the s-hinge. Excellent idea! The plane I'm assembling already has drooping flaps from the manufacturer. This is on the inboard end only of both flaps. Don't know if it is the tape not holding or warped balsa but they drop 1.5-2mm.

Mike
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Last edited by LostVisual; Sep 10, 2013 at 02:20 PM. Reason: guess - typo
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 02:39 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,679 Posts
You could also make the hinge from the covering material itself if you are covering the wing.
I've done this even on faster slope planes with sheeted foam cored wings. Just do a single-bevel hinge, and make sure to add (3-4) 1" wide strips of covering on the "open side" of the bevel, with the covering just hitting the underside of the straight covering, and you should be good.
Hopefully you can understand what I'm referring to.
You end up with an invisible and sealed hinge line.

R,
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 02:58 PM
Red Merle ALES
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United States, Mt, Helena
Joined Apr 2002
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Alright, I will chime in here. I was one of the guys suggesting 3M 600 tape as it has worked for me for years. I replace it about every two years. I also only tape one side, including flaps that have the most movement.

So since I didn't win the Montana Summer ALES contest I understand the hesitation to use my suggestion. Ha ha.

So I suggest use all the different methods on this one model and report back with your results.

Curtis
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 04:55 PM
Detail Freak
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The 600 tape is good stuff also. I have used that succesfully as well.

R,
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 05:59 PM
Launch high, go long
LostVisual's Avatar
Boise, ID
Joined Sep 2006
357 Posts
Curtis -

I wasn't discounting your suggestion on the 3M 600 tape. It appears to be the most cost effective choice. The model already has taped hinges from the mfgr. I am 'exploring' the practice of tape hinges as a builders method as well as alternatives because of the drooping inboard end of each flap and a concern about possible flutter if the tape gets loose/sloppy.

Another take away, check the condition of the tape periodically and replacement is easy.

Mike
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Old Sep 10, 2013, 07:29 PM
Red Merle ALES
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United States, Mt, Helena
Joined Apr 2002
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Mike,

I think it has been a great conversation and thread.

Curt
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Old Sep 11, 2013, 04:19 PM
Thermal Wrangler
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Launceston Tasmania
Joined Mar 2004
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I've used Sellotape Diamond on competition mouldies to repair / replace peel-ply hinging. I've used 3M Book Tape too although Diamond is thinner and just as reliable.

Silicon is aerodynamically purer but offers more resistance to the servos than tape.

If taping, I recommend taping on both sides of the hinge line although just use shorter strips on the side that's mostly concealed and especially at the ends and where the horn sits.

The gain in hinge strength / pivot accuracy by doing this is worth it IMHO.
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