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Old Sep 09, 2010, 04:14 AM
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One more pic, just for fun.

Raipe
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Old Sep 09, 2010, 02:49 PM
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OK, I finally had some time to fiddle with the Myrsky. got he keels to a point that I'm nearly happy with them. I also lightened the "in fuse" part of the horizontal stab. Gotta say I'm so tempted to lighten the whole tail croup like you did. I know it won't be a lot but with that moment arm it might make a difference.(I'd just have to really learn to cover with a film) What do you think? That would mean more weight save since I could cover the whole thing.

I was thinking of a way to assemble the actual model. I could do the bottom side first then the upper fuse half. Would be easy to modify for that, I'd just need to cut the formers in half horizontally.

Raipe
Looking good.

One way to save some weight is to make the former sections and main fuse crutch thinner (I should have mentioned this in the beginning, my bad ), say 1/16" (1.6mm) thick instead of 1/8" (3.2mm), if you plan on using lite ply.... something I should have done on the XP-72... D'oh, I don't remember what I was thinking.

And with the tail, if you do go with the cut-outs, that's probably the easiest thing to cover, take it from someone who hates covering, it's basically a flat surface, then just roll the covering over the edge with your iron. It really is pretty easy.

Also, where the wing mounts to the fuse (Keel), your still going to need something to attach the sheeting too, whether you add it now, or make one during the build, like using a stringer and shape (bend) it over the wing and attach it to the fuse formers.
And you might want to add bottom half formers in front and back of the wing to make a kinda pocket for the wing to sit in, otherwise it's just kinda hanging there.

As far as using split formers for assembling, you can also make them one piece, so they slip over the main fuse crutch and slide into the notches with little tabs to locate them. (see pic) It makes it really easy to assemble then. You basically just slide all the formers into their notches, then add the top cut longeron to align them, then glue in place... simple huh?

Give me a day or two, and I'll come up with something else that may be a little simpler.

Later,
Dean
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Old Sep 10, 2010, 04:40 AM
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Thanks, I think I'll do the cut outs to the tail feathers. That sounds like a manageable task(covering I mean).

I made formers to the front and behind of the wing. I's that anywhere near what you meant? Also made the cowl and the canopy. They may not be exactly scale but hey, I'm just learning
Take your time, I still got a lot to do. And I'll be away for the weekend.(hunting season)

Raipe
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Old Sep 10, 2010, 04:34 PM
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I made formers to the front and behind of the wing. I's that anywhere near what you meant? Also made the cowl and the canopy. They may not be exactly scale but hey, I'm just learning
And I'll be away for the weekend.(hunting season)

Raipe
Yep, those half formers are exactly what I was thinking, two thumbs up.
And I have a pretty simple idea for the wing-fuse crutch, or whatever it's called, we can just notch the bottom corners of the formers (or where the wing-fuse meet) just like for the stringers, and simply bend a balsa stick into place, that should work just fine, although the bottom side will need to be lightly sanded to match the wing, no biggie though. Simple and easy enough, huh?

Man, I really like the little details on the cowl, very nice! And as far as scale, it looks good to me... besides, I doubt any so called scale planes out there are really true to scale with everything. I say if it looks good, go with it.

Happy hunting,
Dean
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Old Sep 12, 2010, 07:19 PM
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Hey fellas. Hope you don't mind me crashing your party with a SW question for Dean the Wizard.

How did you do the panel lines and such on some of your other projects? I've used Split Line, but it will only apply one closed profile at a time. Is there a way to put in surface detail in a wholesale fashion like Feature Split but without cutting the body?

Somehow I missed all of the work that you two have been doing here. This project looks great!

Paul
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Old Sep 12, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Hey Paul, how the hell you doing? I had a feeling you had to be up to something since finishing off the "Frank", great looking plane by the way. And now I see your going for one of those scooped planes yourself , good choice.

For the panel lines, I still do most of it the split line way, but there's no real short cut that I know of yet to get everything on in one swoop.
I've been playing around with mapping textures to the surfaces a little, the only trouble is getting ones that will match the panel lines on the plane. I'll probably try my hand at making some myself, it's just I'm not to handy with using MS Paint quite yet, but doing it that way you can have the panel lines and a color scheme in one shot (texture), then just map and adjust them to the surfaces. You can also make decals in SW and use them also, but I haven't tried that yet.
Anyway, I'll give it a go this coming week and see what happens, then let you know.

This project we're working on is really just Raipe's, I'm just here to help out, he's the one that's going to be doing all the hard work, like building it.

Dean
P.S.
before you ask, yes I'm still working on the XP-72 little by little, covering it is proving to be a real pain, but it will be completely covered soon, it has to fly it before the snow starts flying here.
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Old Sep 12, 2010, 11:49 PM
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Yeah, lately my time is split between home improvement, youth football, and a remote assignment in Tucson. That leaves a fair amount of time for SolidWorks but very little time to realize the results of of the CAD.

I did get to spend a few days in SW training last week, though. SW2010 isn't vastly different, but it did allow the Split Line to use a more complicated sketch. Problem is I don't have 2010.

No worries on the Superbolt--you and Raipe are doing a great job on the tutorial and the Myrsky. I've got to say that that's an aircraft I've never run across, but I'm very interested in the Finnish Air Force in WWII. What a wild collection of aircraft and great paint schemes. The Fokker D.XXI is on my shortlist of aircraft to design.

Have fun, Paul
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:55 AM
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Hi Longhorne, nice Kawasaki. I'm a big fan of those Japanese WW2 planes and really enjoyed your Hayate thread. (Will be waiting for the D.XXI) The real Myrsky wasn't really a success and therefor not very known. It had some issues like breaking up in mid flight(hoping mine won't). So it wasn't used as a fighter but for recce missions etc. I recall there is not one aerial victory by this type(I could be wrong). Dean is being too modest, can't really call this just my project. Without his help I would have used a pile of pencils and erasers and ended up with a bad plan anyway

Notching the formers sounds like a good and simple enough idea for me.
I made a little progress this morning and this is what I got done. I added a former inside the cowl to keep it straight. Also sliced up the tail croup.
You wouldn't know if one can add a new material in to Inventors library? It has no balsa in there. Wouldn't mind getting an idea of the weight and the cg when done.

Raipe
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by raipe View Post
I added a former inside the cowl to keep it straight.

You wouldn't know if one can add a new material in to Inventors library? It has no balsa in there. Wouldn't mind getting an idea of the weight and the cg when done.

Raipe
Hey Raipe,
looking good there, it won't be long before we start doing some cut files.

The only thing, or things I would suggest is maybe move that cowl former forward some, close to, or at the radius of the cowl for better support, and move one stringer location, like in the pic attached. (my pretty weak attempt at using MS paint.) That way it matches up with the cockpit area and you can use it as the battery hatch too, just a thought...

Also here's a couple links for ya, one on how to add new materials in Inventor, and the other with balsa weights. Hope that helps...

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=231736&page=5

http://www.pldaniels.com/flying/bals...roperties.html

More soon,
Dean
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 04:11 PM
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Thanks, Raipe! I did a little homework on the Myrsky. I didn't pick up on a complete absence of aerial victories, but I did see that only 51 were built which would definitely limit their exposure.

Speaking of exposure, I too read that they were prone to coming unglued in flight. Something about a combination of high speed, Finnish winters, and plywood construction. Who would have thunk it? You'll probably be ok if you keep yours inside the hangar between sorties.

I don't know anything about Inventor, but you can always ratio a result from some other material. Not exactly the answer to your question, but a solution none the less.

Take care, Paul
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 07:18 PM
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Hey Paul,
Your more than welcome to join in and throw in your suggestions and ideas, the more input put out here only helps us all. And I'm sure Raipe would welcome it also.

And while were sharing our possible next or new projects, I have one that a fellow RC club mate has asked me about possibly doing. It's still very early on, and I mean not even a days worth of work, but I'll throw it out there anyway...

Later,
Dean
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 06:45 AM
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Welcome on my behalf also, there's never too much ideas and tips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoedude View Post
move that cowl former forward some, close to, or at the radius of the cowl for better support, and move one stringer location, like in the pic attached. (my pretty weak attempt at using MS paint.) That way it matches up with the cockpit area and you can use it as the battery hatch too, just a thought...

Also here's a couple links for ya, one on how to add new materials in Inventor, and the other with balsa weights. Hope that helps...
More soon,
Dean

Ok, I'll move the former more front, should I also make those keel parts reach all the way to the front, or at least some way in to the cowl, to keep it from wiggling vertically? I could also make another ring. Those links did kinda help. I just couldn't(or wasn't allowed to) follow the instructions. I think it's because I'm using the educational version? But that's ok, the default material is 1g/cm3 so it'll be easy to calculate like Paul mentioned.

I gotta throw in one other project also. Been working on this occasionally, still needs a lot of fiddling.

Starting to really like this CAD thing
Raipe
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 02:36 PM
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Hey Raipe,
Very cool looking plane you have there, sweet!

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should I also make those keel parts reach all the way to the front, or at least some way in to the cowl, to keep it from wiggling vertically? I could also make another ring.

I gotta throw in one other project also. Been working on this occasionally, still needs a lot of fiddling.

Starting to really like this CAD thing
Raipe
You can if you want, or even a little brace from that former to the next, but there's really not too much pressure or forces on the cowl once it's on that the former can't handle (unless it hits the ground ). Take a look at some other plane kits, most of them just screw the cowl on at the rear. But if you want, go for it...

OK, here's a few pics that I never did get to post for the stringers & notches (because of my files getting corrupted from a power outage and having to re-do them), a little late since your already past that point, but at least you'll have them for future reference.

And a couple for Paul too.

Dean
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 06:15 PM
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and move one stringer location, like in the pic attached. That way it matches up with the cockpit area and you can use it as the battery hatch too, just a thought...
You know what, instead of moving that stringer, you can add another next to it and use that for the hatch instead of splitting it, don't know why I didn't think of that before... Too many dead brain cells maybe?

Dean
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Old Sep 15, 2010, 06:54 AM
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there's really not too much pressure or forces on the cowl once it's on that the former can't handle (unless it hits the ground ).
Dean
In that case I should add a lot of stuff in there
I did adjust the stringers, tried and moved that one up and the whole thing looked like someone just threw the stringers on it so I had to move the rest of them too I think it actually looks better now. I also tried adding decals on the fuse and it turned out to be really easy. I'll try and chance the cowl support tonight if I can. Gotta take a brake and think it over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoedude;

You know what, instead of moving that stringer, you can add another next to it and use that for the hatch instead of splitting it, don't know why I didn't think of that before... Too many dead brain cells maybe?

Dean
Talk about dead brain cells. I read that and still didn't do it that way darn it I quess I got to split it up then

Later
Raipe
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