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Old Apr 28, 2015, 08:03 PM
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Thanks Fly Wheel, I try to keep it a clean build.

I hope that I've finally finished on the soldering of the landing gear. This evening I put the axle into the gear and ran into a minor problem. Apparently, I put the axle guides in too high on the wires. When I tried to wire wrap the axle to the spreader, I found that it was 1/8" above the spreader. From what I see, it may not have been possible to have gotten it flush because of the wire wraps at each end. I solved the problem by putting in a 3/4" piece of 1/8" wire as a spacer. I think it actually looks pretty good.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 08:08 PM
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Not to shabby at all!!

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Old Apr 29, 2015, 08:46 PM
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Thanks Steve. This weekend I hope to get a coat of polyurethane on the wooden parts an then mask the off and a coat o silver/steel paint on the metal to both level the colors and protect the metal.

Next week I plan on making the gear attachments and picking up the dummy engine construction. I keep procrastinating on covering. I would like to get it all together and rigged before I cover.
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Old May 04, 2015, 04:58 PM
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Only a little progress...

It's been a very busy week at work and with the coming of spring here in Southeastern PA there has been a fair amount of yard work. All this means that I haven't had much time to work on the Eastbourne.

I did manage to get a start on the attach clips for the main gear. the rear clips are drilled and ready to attach to the fuselage.

I must admit that I did manage to escape for a few hours on Sunday to play with the new toy I finished back a month or so ago. Flies nices.
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Old May 04, 2015, 08:16 PM
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Nice job on both!!! I used to fly with Ken Willard (the original designer of the Top Dawg) at the Pioneer club in Santa Clara, CA. back in the early 1980's...

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Old May 04, 2015, 09:14 PM
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Thanks Steve. I haven't had a Top Dawg since 1980-81 when the club I belonged to then used them as the "club" plane. At our flyins about half the events were limited to club planes. It was replaced later by the Quickie 500 but I always preferred the Top Dawg.

This one is four channel and has Rimfire 10 in it on 3 cells. Its a bit overpowered in my opinion. A good 450-480 class motor would probably fly it fine.

TomK
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Old May 07, 2015, 07:31 PM
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While I finish up the main gear, I've started looking at the wing rigging. It seems that I will need 16 pieces ( 4 on the top and bottom of each wing). While I could probably make them, I'd prefer to buy them because that should guarantee that they would be identical.

I've looked at most at the commercial sites and the best I've seen so far is from Proctor (part #130). Dubro has the 1/4 scale pieces but they are way to large.

Pete has all four rigging cables to a common steel hook on the top/bottom fuselage king posts. The design suggest that the rigging is to be removed by pulling the cables of the hook. If they flex enough to disconnect then they can't be functional. So I was thinking that I would use the loop as designed on the bottom (Do I need a turnbuckle on all 16 cables or maybe only one on each pair?). I've never actually rigged cables on this big of a plane before.

Thoughts?
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Old May 08, 2015, 07:58 AM
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Do they even make turnbuckles that small? If they do I've never seen one (and would like to know).
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Old May 08, 2015, 12:13 PM
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Look at model boat sites. The scale folks have smaller turnbuckles. Beware, the price will be a bit steep

charlie
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Old May 08, 2015, 07:11 PM
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Thx.
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Old May 09, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Some progress

I've managed to make a little progress this week.

I managed to finish the attaching clips and get the landing gear attached. I did make a small change in that I added 1/4" square base inside the fuselage to reinforce the screws that hold the gear in place.

In reviewing this thread, I see that I never posted pictures of the completed wheels so here they are and here they in place on the gear and fuselage.

Maybe more tomorrow, we'll see what tonight brings.
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Old May 10, 2015, 12:09 PM
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Actually, because the wings are far more rigid than those on the original, and because the mounting wires hold them at the correct incidence/dihedral, all the rigging has to do is make sure they don't slide off the wires. Believe me, you are not going to want to dismantle and readjust turnbuckles every time you use the model.
As it stands, the rigging only needs to be semi-functional and monofilament fishing line works fine for that. It has just enough stretch to allow unhooking, but not enough that the flight loads will stretch it. 20 lb strain line should be ample.
Bring all four cables to a single wire loop at each rigging point and then assembly/disassembly becomes a matter of minutes. If you feel you must have turnbuckles, put them at the wing end of each cable.
Remember, they were round cables at this time, not flat wires.
Alternatively, make it a one-piece model and use braided, nylon coated trace wire, tube crimps and no adjustment.

Pete
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Old May 10, 2015, 06:40 PM
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Thanks Pete. I agree that I have no desire to take the model apart any more than required, Since you say the the rigging is only semi-functional, I shall be happy to follow your directions.
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