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Old Feb 10, 2015, 01:01 PM
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szmyk's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, London
Joined Jun 2007
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Excellent skills.. I'm sure it'll be beautiful jewel at the end..
Congratulations!!
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 06:03 PM
mahoganyfan
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United States, NJ, Atlantic City
Joined Nov 2010
738 Posts
Mini Screws

GPR, am I reading your post correctly, $260.00 for the two handfuls of screws. Your Lockpat II is surely worth it but on my novice builds I think I will keep using pushpins. Your boat is coming out great and I read over and over all your posts picking up good ideas and information. Keep up the wonderful work.
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 06:45 PM
GPR
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Rochester, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by californiakid View Post
GPR, am I reading your post correctly, $260.00 for the two handfuls of screws.
You got it! This, after a significant amount of shopping. This is the "low cost" solution. Using SS, wood screws, and other variations drive the price up enough that you can easily add another zero to that number!
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Old Feb 10, 2015, 08:55 PM
WooHoo!
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Lake Balboa, CA
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Wow!
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 12:21 PM
GPR
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Rochester, Michigan
Joined Jan 2009
599 Posts
Still plugging away at bits and pieces. The side moldings have arrow head and feather tail end caps trimming out the half round. I made the caps out of brass and drilled for screws. They need plating.
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 12:40 PM
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Tim B.'s Avatar
Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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Trimmed ???

( ) !

Amazing jeweler work here ~

Do you use a magnifying lamp ?

How is something So small held during shaping ?
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 01:00 PM
WooHoo!
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Lake Balboa, CA
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Mad skills!
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 01:08 PM
GPR
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Rochester, Michigan
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim B. View Post
Trimmed ???

( ) !

Amazing jeweler work here ~

Do you use a magnifying lamp ?

How is something So small held during shaping ?
I have a lighted, flip up headband magnifier that I use on continuous or repetitive fine work, but for operations where I am moving back and forth from bench to equipment, like these parts, I just wear a pair of higher magnification readers.

Holding on to small parts is always difficult. In this case, the parts were made, one at a time, out of 1/4 x 1/16 in brass bar stock. I was able to grind the majority of the taper on each part using my disc sander and then fine tune all the finish shaping along the piece sides with files and emery paper, before cutting the part off of the bar. Then I wrapped each piece in scrap leather and clamped it in a vice grip pliers to help hold it firmly for hand filing of the remaining details. Polishing was all done while holding the parts in my hands.
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 01:18 PM
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Oakland Ca.
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I see !

The leather is a Fine idea, non abrasive yet firm enough to grip the part..........

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Old Feb 16, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Raleigh NC
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http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Har...p/113105?Pos=2 I have on of these I found at a yard sale(got a whole box of tools for $7)
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 03:18 PM
GPR
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Rochester, Michigan
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Cool tool!
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 03:44 PM
mahoganyfan
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United States, NJ, Atlantic City
Joined Nov 2010
738 Posts
Awesome job

Still watching and learning......
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Old Feb 16, 2015, 07:47 PM
Crackin' Claws
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United States, FL, Oviedo
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tghsmith View Post
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Har...p/113105?Pos=2 I have on of these I found at a yard sale(got a whole box of tools for $7)
The aluminum ring clamp #113106, on the same page is far superior.
I have three of these I used extensively during my 30+ years as a professional silver/goldsmith.
You can really torque these down on your piece, for great holding power.
Additionally, the leather holding pads are easily replaced with scrap leather and contact cement.
I still use these frequently in my modeling.
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