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Old Aug 14, 2014, 10:34 PM
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United States, GA, Atlanta
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Help!
Folding prop maintenance.

Hello all.

I've been flying sailplanes for a long time and have finally stepped into electrics. I have a Mystique RES and just recently assembled a Prelude. I have a Radian with a aluminum spinner and carbon prop that works flawlessly. Also, on the folding prop of the Mystique I am able to really tighten the prop screws without binding the blades. My question is regarding the Prelude. Specifically I would like to know about how hard you tighten the screws on the prop blades I've tried doing it just tight enough so that the blades extend and fold easily, but after a few flights the screws seem to be working themselves loose like the thread lock didn't work.

I use blue thread lock. Is there a better one? I have heavy duty red thread lock but if I want to change props that stuff is a bugger to break free. Has anyone tried a drop of CA? Should I sand the prop base a little bit to give me a little more wiggle room? Any knowledgable advice is appreciated. Thank you. Rich
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Old Aug 14, 2014, 11:31 PM
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Use Red Thread Lock

I always use the red thread lock and never have a problem with screws backing out, or getting the screws out. I do use a screwdriver bit that fits the screw head slot precisely to avoid slip off. I also clean the dried thread lock off with solvent before applying fresh. I don't tighten the screws past the point of just being snug, so all that's really holding them is the thread lock.

Having screws that are hard to get out isn't a handicap. If one were to back out and throw the blade it would likely rip the nose off the plane, or worse!

Steve
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 06:38 AM
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Thanks JF. I'll give the red thread lock a spin. I know in the past I've broke the heads off hex head screws when trying to remove them but I guess it's better than loosing a prop or worse.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 09:14 AM
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I don't care for the spinner with the screw that threads into the opposite yoke arm because of the problems you're having. I went to RFM spinners that have a bit more meat on the hub and use a screw and nylock nut, plus they use nice stout set screws to hold the yoke on the shaft and they are one piece so no fiddling with collets and a bunch of parts. Down side, they aren't cheap.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadchucker View Post
I don't care for the spinner with the screw that threads into the opposite yoke arm because of the problems you're having. I went to RFM spinners that have a bit more meat on the hub and use a screw and nylock nut, plus they use nice stout set screws to hold the yoke on the shaft and they are one piece so no fiddling with collets and a bunch of parts. Down side, they aren't cheap.
That's what I have on my other ship and I agree they work better, but they did not have it in the size I needed at my LHS. I feel lucky to have a shop close to home with a great selection of gear. I did not want to wait to get this ship airborne. Maybe I'll order one as a backup.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 10:08 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
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I'm a big fan of nylon stop nuts too. Some of the cheap HobbyKing spinners use long bolts and stop nuts. However, I'm not certain that your bolts are actually working loose. It's possible that your yoke is bending closed and then working loose during use. You might have a little taper or flash in the prop that is causing the problem. Even on my more expensive CF props I have found that they need a little sanding to get a perfectly flat surface.

Cheers!
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 10:43 AM
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Yes. I've sanded it down a bit. I think it's going to be all good.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
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That's what I have on my other ship and I agree they work better, but they did not have it in the size I needed at my LHS. I feel lucky to have a shop close to home with a great selection of gear. I did not want to wait to get this ship airborne. Maybe I'll order one as a backup.
Check out Bob Breuax's stuff at Soaring USA, he usually carries the full line of RFM items. Just a suggestion if you're going looking as he's great to deal with and big supported of model soaring.

I have had to sand every prop I've ever bought to get the fit just right.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 11:04 AM
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Soaring USA is great.

Cliff at Atlanta Hobby is close by for me. He's a big proponent of all things that soar too and gets most of my business if possible.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrich View Post
Hello all.

I've been flying sailplanes for a long time and have finally stepped into electrics. I have a Mystique RES and just recently assembled a Prelude. I have a Radian with a aluminum spinner and carbon prop that works flawlessly. Also, on the folding prop of the Mystique I am able to really tighten the prop screws without binding the blades. My question is regarding the Prelude. Specifically I would like to know about how hard you tighten the screws on the prop blades I've tried doing it just tight enough so that the blades extend and fold easily, but after a few flights the screws seem to be working themselves loose like the thread lock didn't work.

I use blue thread lock. Is there a better one? I have heavy duty red thread lock but if I want to change props that stuff is a bugger to break free. Has anyone tried a drop of CA? Should I sand the prop base a little bit to give me a little more wiggle room? Any knowledgable advice is appreciated. Thank you. Rich
I've never had a problem when using nuts with nylon inserts.
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Old Aug 15, 2014, 09:25 PM
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Joined Mar 2005
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If the loctite is not curing properly , there is available a primer to insure the
loctite cures out. ( available from mc masters and napa that I know of)
Blue -242- should be sufficient for small screw, red -271- is a bit extreme and takes 300 degrees of heat to release bond.

Ny loc nuts are one of many locking type nuts, search mc master and aircraft supply places to learn of more. ( Kay-nuts and jet nuts are a few )


Hope this helps


Ron
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