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Old Apr 28, 2012, 09:09 AM
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Parchment, MI, U.S.A.
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OK, I'm going to order one (Cameo). Along with it, I am leaning towards some matte white adhesive backed vinyl, which is reported to be 3 mil thick. Initially, I wondered if that would be a little too thick to look right on a model, but I just measured some white (gloss) Coverite trim sheet and it is the same thickness.

I am going with the matte finish because it should be easier to print on. BTW: my P-40 will be electic powered, so no need to worry about fuel proofing the ink, but I WILL put something over it anyway to protect it from cleaning spray.

UPDATE: ordered thru Amazon and for $275 (free shipping) it comes an extra/ spare cutter, and an extra cutting mat.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o01_s00_i00
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 11:33 AM
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I havent tried that feature either. The Zing has a laser pointer in the head but I believe that the Cameo does have registration mark readers. This should also make it possible to do layered vinyl graphics easily because aligning the design on each pass is not an issue.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerxky View Post
I havent tried that feature either. The Zing has a laser pointer in the head but I believe that the Cameo does have registration mark readers. This should also make it possible to do layered vinyl graphics easily because aligning the design on each pass is not an issue.
well, the alignment of the graphics when doing multicolor is done external to whatever machine you have during the transfer tape application after they have been weeded. The alignment marks help then but I doubt there is a use during cutting unless you are cutting out something that previously been printed on the medium being cut
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorsairJock View Post
UPDATE: ordered thru Amazon and for $275 (free shipping) it comes an extra/ spare cutter, and an extra cutting mat.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o01_s00_i00
Let me know how it goes.

btw, I ordered mine through SignWarehouse. The vinyl there is tremendously cheaper. For a couple dollars more, you can get a 10 yd roll instead of 6 feet. I probably used about three feet just figuring out how it worked, so the savings came in real handy.
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Old May 06, 2012, 06:15 PM
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Recieved my Silhouette Cameo and paper, created and printed my design (WITH registration marks), but, it's NOT CUTTING!

Running thru the motions, following the correct outlines, making noise, but no cuts.

I have some questions about the cutting units: is this what they are supposed to look like? I don't see anything that would cut. If I look deep enough into it, I see what appears to be a blunt ended shaft, maybe about 1 mm diameter.

When I watched it 'try' to cut by cheating the switch and holding the door open: I could not see the cutter even making any contact with the paper, didn't even see anything coming out of the cutter housing.

If I had only 1 cutter, I would suspect a mfg. defect, but I also recieved a spare, and both look identical. Checked and double checked all settings, even tried increasing cutter depth from recommended "1" to "2". Doesn't even look like it scratched the surface.

SO, it this what they are supposed to look like?
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Old May 07, 2012, 01:08 AM
Watts is where its at!
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The cutter come out of the hole in the white end of the housing you took the picture of. There is a gray 'adapter' that you put the white end into so you can twist it, there is one built into the cutter unit. There is an orange mark on the white housing indicating the depth setting. You match that up with the arrow embossed on the gray housing and snap the two together. Then twist to adjust the depth setting.

When its dialed all the way up to 10 it only sticks out about 2mm and looks more like a needle than a knife.

The repeatability of setting the depth like this is kind of brilliant. Everything else I have seen has no gauge or dial so you cant tell anyone else what kind of setting you are using. For covering I have it set between 0 and 1.
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by racerxky View Post
The cutter come out of the hole in the white end of the housing you took the picture of. ..............
THANKS!!!! I must have had a real brainfart: I was installing it upside down.
The manual and the Cameo itself are sort of lacking when it comes to instructions: they never explain how the cutter works, and only one small picture of how to install it. And in retrospect: what is with the threads and guide slot if they sre installed up? Oh well, I'm sure it'll work now.
Pictures of finished 'decals' to come later today (MAYBE).
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Old May 07, 2012, 03:56 PM
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RESULTS!

I used Silhouette 8 1/2" x 11" 'Printable heat transfer material' (for dark colored fabrics). I used slowest speed (set on "1") for best resolution, cutter set at depth of "1" as per recommendation from software, and used the 12 x 12 mat to hold everything in place.

The cutter performed pretty well, certainly good enough for me. NOW, to transfer the material to my P-40.

I have some scraps of Frisket on hand, elected to use it to hold everything together ('tail art', along with "HOLD'N MY OWN" lettering) while I attempted to adhere the entire design to the rudder.

Well, the Frisket didn't work out as well as I had hoped: the Frisket adhered to the heat transfer material better than the heat transfer material was adhering to the Monokote when heated, AND it would peel the print off of the material if I tried to remove the Frisket. SO, I elected to leave the Frisket on, covering the printed material. On the right side of the rudder, I cut the Frisket much closer to the outlin of the printed material, to keep excess coverage to a minimum.

Also of note: the lettering was VERY thin: about 1/16 wide lines. The letters did not always stick to the backing until I was ready to remove them, and once they come loose: there is not putting them onto the backing paper (they just refuse to stick). That is why they are not lined up perfecty on the right side of the rudder.

All in all tho, I am content with the results, my first effort. I don't intend to enter this P-40 in any contests, but maybe future projects will turn out better.
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Old May 07, 2012, 04:15 PM
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And now, the fuselage numbers: the number "38" was cut using microsoft fonts (I forget which one, but the numbers look VERY close to the way they are supposed to look). They are approx 2" tall, and have no printing on them.

Again, I chose to use a little Frisket to hold them together while I applied heat to the material. This time however, I just used 2 strips for each set, each strip about 1/4" wide, 1 on top and one on the bottom. The idea was to align the numbers properly on the fuselage, heat the center of the numbers to make them adhere to the Monokote, then peel the Frisket off and heat the remaining portions (top and bottom) of the numbers. It seemed to work much better, until I began peeling the (un-heated) Frisket strips off and noticed it was removing some white from the material. It's not noticeable tho, and in the long run worked out OK, but I don't think I'll be buying anymore of the heat transfer material. Instead, I try the adhesive backed vinyl next time, and will NOT use Frisket on any printed surfaces (unless I want to leass it on again..

The stars are from Major Decals.
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Old May 08, 2012, 12:11 AM
Watts is where its at!
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Nice work! How did the 'print and cut' functionality work?
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Old May 08, 2012, 06:15 AM
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Nice work! How did the 'print and cut' functionality work?
'Print and Cut' worked GREAT, as can be seen by the rail art. I 'designed' it using Silhouette software from a scan of a 1/48 scale decal set, enlarged ot to 1/7th for my P-40, printed it on my HP printer (printed registration marks also), and the cuts were nearly dead on.

Remember: I used the slowest possible cutting speed for maximum cutting accuracy.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for, now I can 'create' nose art for all of my future warbid projects!
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Old May 19, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Ive have been following this thread for a while and have got some great info. I have been looking to purchace a cutter for a while and needed some info on what to get. Is there any more photos of some of the work done using the cameo.
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Old May 19, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Here's what I've used mine for so far...
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Old May 22, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Guntersville, AL
Joined Jun 2004
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I've just received my Cameo and it looks impressive. Can anyone tell me the best way to get AutoCad DWG or DXF files into SVG code so the machine will cut the shapes I already have? I read where A123 will export as SVG. Is this all I need to get my files into the machine so it will cut them? Will A123 read older version DWG/DXF files so I can load them and save as SVG? Doeas anybody know if the upgrade sofware (prro version) for the Silhouette Studio will do any of this easier or faster?
Thanks
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Old May 22, 2012, 01:29 PM
Watts is where its at!
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United States, WA, Seattle
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I believe that you need the pro version of Silhouette Studio to read in the SVG files.

not sure of the slickest way to go from DXF to SVG.
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