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Old Jun 24, 2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sabre250 View Post
Back in 2012 I rebuilt a Ken 60 which had a piston with a broken baffle. It was an impressive looking engine, with polished castings and a complex induction system, as described in Charlie Bruce's article.
The Ken vibrated if pushed over 9000 and was no better in this regard than an OK Super 60. Though in good mechanical condition, this example was certainly not as powerful as an Orwick or an Anderson.
The induction system will be readily seen in the following shots. I doubt the impeller contributed anything other than complexity and was used primarily to enhance sales appeal, differentiating the Ken from ordinary engines which did not have a 'supercharger'!

sabre250
Hello, many thanks for pictures and your interesting remarks,ciao!
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Old Jun 24, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by brokenenglish View Post
OK, Here's Charlie Bruce's review of the Ken 60.
Like most of Charlie's reviews, it's more an expert engineering analysis of the engine construction, and disassembly and reassembly techniques, than just simply running and playing with engines. Fortunately we now have video for that.
The rpm readings obtained are respectable, without being exceptional in any way, but they are very nice looking engines.
Many thanks again!!
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Old Jun 24, 2015, 10:00 PM
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I guess this is as good a thread to post the question as any.

I have a Remco Super Cyke mounted in a plane that runs okay. However, occasionally it sounds like it's skipping.
I'm guessing this is either the HT lead or the points which appear to open pretty wide. If it's the latter, what should the gap be?
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 01:21 AM
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Tom, when I was young, a very long time ago, I was told by some very competent American and English gentlemen that the points and plug gaps both need to be around the "thickness of a business card", which I've always taken to be about half a millimeter.
Again, years ago, I did actually used to use a piece of card to check (and wipe the points at the same time!).
Now, I just eyeball it to around half a millimeter, and I can't remember ever having a points gap problem.
As you imply, if the plug gap is excessive (for example, twice the optimum), then the linear distance covered by the moving point is doubled, and so is its linear speed, which would probably encourage "bounce".
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabre250 View Post
Back in 2012 I rebuilt a Ken 60 which had a piston with a broken baffle. It was an impressive looking engine, with polished castings and a complex induction system, as described in Charlie Bruce's article.
The Ken vibrated if pushed over 9000 and was no better in this regard than an OK Super 60. Though in good mechanical condition, this example was certainly not as powerful as an Orwick or an Anderson.
The induction system will be readily seen in the following shots. I doubt the impeller contributed anything other than complexity and was used primarily to enhance sales appeal, differentiating the Ken from ordinary engines which did not have a 'supercharger'!

sabre250
In the accompanying letter it states "The prop driver is not serrated and needs a hefty tighten to prevent slip ". This is an annoying and rather stupid aspect of many engines, but a quick fix is to use two pieces of fine sandpaper stuck together back-to-back, trace around the prop washer to get an approx. size and use a hole puncher to cut out for the prop shaft. Fitted between the prop driver and the prop, this provides sufficient grip in most cases to avoid having to over-tighten the prop and risk stripping the thread. Surprisingly this also doesn't seem to mark the prop driver.
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 01:57 AM
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Some of the big Tigres used to have nipples on the face of the prop driver, as I recall.
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofthewings04 View Post
In the accompanying letter it states "The prop driver is not serrated and needs a hefty tighten to prevent slip ". This is an annoying and rather stupid aspect of many engines, but a quick fix is to use two pieces of fine sandpaper stuck together back-to-back, trace around the prop washer to get an approx. size and use a hole puncher to cut out for the prop shaft. Fitted between the prop driver and the prop, this provides sufficient grip in most cases to avoid having to over-tighten the prop and risk stripping the thread. Surprisingly this also doesn't seem to mark the prop driver.
Thanks Peter. That's new to me and it will be useful (common sense really...).
PS: I've just been given a KK Truflex prop that's light blue (very nice)!
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 03:56 PM
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RyanNX211; The point springs on the Cyclones are not very strong and so the point gap should be around .008" to .010". That should take out the miss. They usually only do it at high speed and a light load when the points are to far open. I generally set all my engines points to those specs and that takes care of that. It is also a good idea to run a piece of white paper through them before running to clean them. When the paper comes out clean you are good to go.

If the crankshaft bearing is worn real bad you may have to go just a tad wider gap. You can wiggle the shaft and watch how much the points move and adjust accordingly.
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Old Jun 25, 2015, 11:12 PM
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kencraft ad MAN may 1947

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Originally Posted by nernst View Post
Hello, many thanks for pictures and your interesting remarks,ciao!
Here is a KENCRAFT advertisement scanned directly from my issue of the May 1947 Model Airplane News.....

Best Regards,

Jeff
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Old Jun 26, 2015, 05:30 PM
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Here is a KENCRAFT advertisement scanned directly from my issue of the May 1947 Model Airplane News.....

Best Regards,

Jeff
Very interesting for history of Ken engines, thank you! Ernesto
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Old Jun 27, 2015, 07:59 AM
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AMEE Vol II

Those interested in North American engines are no doubt familiar with Tim Dannels's American Model Engine Encyclopedia. It is the most definitive reference on the market. But it stopped at 1975. Tim had been threatening to run it out to current (2015) for some time and has been working on it for years. With Ron Chernich's passing, Tim accelerated his work on AMEE and has it completed.
It contains new material, corrected material, and is in color. It is an addition to, not a replacement of the original AMEE.

From Tim:

"Volume 2 of the very popular American Model Engine Encyclopedia will soon be ready for circulation.

Advance orders are now being taken. Estimated delivery will be no later than the first of September, but you can get on the list now.

The Advance Order price is $60.00 and will be shipped post paid until September 1. After that appropriate postage will be applied. This is for U.S. buyers. Canadian and “rest of world” orders will get a reduction in their postage, but an additional amount will be required. Write for details with your country.

This edition will contain much new and updated information on many of the lines featured in the first edition, but it is not a repeat of that Volume 1. Some lines will not be illustrated again while others with show the entire line from start to finish. Most of these will have new material included.

And speaking of illustrations, all picture pages will be printed in full color, just like our popular Cox Model Engine Handbook.

$60.00 US to the Model Museum (Tim Dannels) – 28795 County Road 331 – Buena Vista, CO 81211 – PayPal to <ameebooks@gmail.com> "
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Old Jun 27, 2015, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanNX211 View Post
I guess this is as good a thread to post the question as any.

I have a Remco Super Cyke mounted in a plane that runs okay. However, occasionally it sounds like it's skipping.
I'm guessing this is either the HT lead or the points which appear to open pretty wide. If it's the latter, what should the gap be?
For what it's worth. Specs from Cyke manual.
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