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Old Jul 28, 2015, 03:44 PM
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Here are some mor pics!
keep posting your build. I am learning. Plan to start the Oly 2 in the next few days. I don't know how close this model is to the Oly 2 but it is good to watch the build. I hope I can do the build in about a mont or 6 weeks if possible then I will have ready for eWeek at TripleTree, but may not make it.
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Old Jul 28, 2015, 04:13 PM
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It's a very different plane in that the Oly III has almost a yard more wing, longer and more complex fuse, but the Oly II is the best plane to start learning to thermal soar. I built my current Oly II in about 1990 and it still flies great....it just doesn't look too hot.
Are you going to use the rubber band/dowel wing hold down method? If so, make the dowels about 1/2" long sticking out each side of the fuse. Makes it much easier getting the rubber bands on.
Also plan on using servos in the spoiler bays instead of the string system. I've used HS-55 servos in my spoilers.
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Old Jul 28, 2015, 04:41 PM
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Once I get the bottom and rib caps installed, it will be time for a LOT of sanding!
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Old Aug 01, 2015, 09:56 PM
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Today was the maiden flight (finally) of the Oly III. What a WONDERFUL sailplane! We did about 3 hand tosses and then ran the rudder travel to max and did one more toss....the result was improved response. The rudder seems to deb pretty sluggish on initial response, but when it starts to turn it is easy to put on a wing tip and turn.

We then put it up on the hi-start and had 4 good flights. The first was just a good trim flight. It took no rudder trim and only about 2 clicks of up trim to give a great glide.

The second flight got a really good launch into a 7 mph breeze with an excellent climb. I immediately found some good lift and the Oly III started climbing smoothly with a nice thermal turn. The landing was smooth and uneventful.

The third flight had a low launch since the breeze had died off and launched right into major sink. The plane was coming down about as fast as the hi-start parachute, but another good landing.

The final flight of the day had another great launch and found lift right away. The lift was small and moving rapidly downwind, but you can put this plane up on a wingtip and circle nice and tight. The landing was even smoother than the earlier ones. I am going to have to add more elevator compensation for the spoiler deployment. It responds to the spoilers very well and smoothly for their minimal size.

Overall, I LOVE THIS PLANE!!

Now I've got to get the new electric fuse ready to go.
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 04:58 AM
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The Sky Bench kit spoilers are designed to open straight up, providing maximum drag effect.
Doing this, means the spoiler area can be relatively small compared to the long spoiler blades we were brought up with in designs of the past.

Why reduce the length of the spoiler, well,... close inspection of most woody spoilers exposes very poor fitting spoiler blades. The longer the spoiler, the more chance of gaps around the spoiler ( drag) and warped blades (drag). The secret to having smaller spoilers ( better fitting ) is they should open to a straight up position. What do the flyers with long spoilers blades do, for the most part, they only partially open the spoilers.

My style of using spoilers is using the gear switch, this means my spoiler is automatically opened to full up and since the spoiler is relatively small, full up provides a smooth, but decisive approach to the landing spot.

Spoiler Articles on my Sky Bench web:

http://www.skybench.com/spoilers.html

http://www.skybench.com/report/spoilers.html

Ray
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 01:03 PM
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Hey Ray,

Thanks for the spoiler explanation...another question....how do you feel about cutting a 45 degree angle on the elevator and rudder leading edges then using hinge tape vs. the CA hinges?? It's simpler and the weight should be pretty equal. The reason I ask is the one I maidened yesterday was really singing, especially at speed. Closing the gaps by using tape hinges should clean it up quite a bit.
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 01:09 PM
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I run my spoilers on the throttle stick. They come up the full 90 degrees, but this does allow me to modulate them on a spot landing approach if needed.
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by n0irw View Post
Hey Ray,

Thanks for the spoiler explanation...another question....how do you feel about cutting a 45 degree angle on the elevator and rudder leading edges then using hinge tape vs. the CA hinges?? It's simpler and the weight should be pretty equal. The reason I ask is the one I maidened yesterday was really singing, especially at speed. Closing the gaps by using tape hinges should clean it up quite a bit.
I like to leave the rear of the fin with squared edges. In other words, I don't reshape the rear fin edge. I shape the front edge of the rudder to a V shape. I use a straight edge to draw a line in the center of the front fin edge before shaping to assure a straight hinge line. The hinge gap can be very minimal with this configuration. I gotta say, I never heard a rudder hinge sing ( make a loud sound). One way to completely close a bad hinging job is with a very thin application of Silicone glue after covering.
A tape hinge works too.

Ray
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 07:33 PM
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BTW .......... If you reload the front page of my web site, you will see all the bad news about not taking orders and adding your name to a Notification List has been DELETED.

Ray
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 09:19 PM
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btw .......... If you reload the front page of my web site, you will see all the bad news about not taking orders and adding your name to a notification list has been deleted.

ray
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yeah!!!!!!
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Old Aug 08, 2015, 06:10 PM
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We have progress!! I still have some more rough sanding to do on the bottom and the top canopy block. I hope to be ready for paint by next weekend or early next week. I'm using Lusterkote white primer and yellow to match the monokote on the wings.
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Old Aug 22, 2015, 06:25 PM
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We are ready for paint!! I'm using Lusterkote white primer then Lusterkote yellow....just like the hi-start fuse!!
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Old Aug 23, 2015, 07:16 PM
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Always interesting to weigh what I paint before painting to see how much weight I have added. I gave up painting, even as beautiful as it can be on a model, because of the excessive extra weight. Especially on a long fuse. But, I know builders that can paint with very little weight gain.

Ray
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 11:15 PM
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I'm not working for a mirror finish or anything close to that....I've hit it with 220 grit and will shoot 3 coats of Lusterkote Primer sanding with 400 grit between each one....then about 3 coats of Lusterkote Yellow, again sanding lightly between each coat. Since Lusterkote is a lacquer, it goes on pretty thin and in my experience, keeps the weight down. I know its hard to keep the tail weight down, but in the case of the electric, it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
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