Originally Posted by mkeveney

Here's one I discovered some time ago; maybe new to some of you. I've had bad luck with my 'Master Airscrew' balsa stripper when cutting anything but the lightest stock. The blade wanders or slips in it's clamp, giving a terribly inaccurate cut. Instead use a 'base' piece of 1/8" ply. The blade should be extended enough to poke into the ply a bit. This keeps it from wandering. Then grip the stripper and the ply in one hand, and feed the stock through with your other. ... -Matt

I can see how this would work pretty well when needing to cut larger/thicker balsa strips. I suppose the only other option would be a table saw like Micro-mart and others sell.

Originally Posted by mkeveney

Here's one I discovered some time ago; maybe new to some of you.

I've had bad luck with my 'Master Airscrew' balsa stripper when cutting anything but the lightest stock. The blade wanders or slips in it's clamp, giving a terribly inaccurate cut.

Instead use a 'base' piece of 1/8" ply. The blade should be extended enough to poke into the ply a bit. This keeps it from wandering. Then grip the stripper and the ply in one hand, and feed the stock through with your other.

For really tough stock, clamp the stripper to the ply piece as shown. I have a pair of 1" C-clamps that are perfect for the job.

With this setup I can accurately strip stock up to 1/4" thick, even from very dense balsa.

-Matt

Excellent idea Matt! I have 2 of these tools. I found the same thing happening to me. I like your idea very much and I'll be sure to use it next time! Thanks! Marty

GREAT idea on the MA stripper. I was going to cobble something together using a utility knife blade for this reason, but now I think I'll try this first. Sure will be a lot simpler.

I want to daub some paint around inside the wheel wells on my DH88 Comet and would really like to find a small brush with the business end cranked through 90 degrees. So far, I haven't found anything so, before I try butchering an existing brush, I wondered whether anybody had a good solution to the problem - and please don't tell me to paint the inside before sheeting the nacelles in

TIA

Trevor

Originally Posted by Trevorh

I I wondered whether anybody had a good solution to the problem - and please don't tell me to paint the inside before sheeting the nacelles in

TIA

Trevor

Before you sheet, paint..... ahhh never mind...
Try and find a paint brush with a plastic handle. Gently heat the handle and bend. I've done this a few times. Works well with the smaller "artist's" brushes they sell for kids.

Q-tips. Remove as much cotton as you need if necessary, bendable-even 90 degrees, toss out when done. I'd be lost without Q-tips.

I have a 3/8" flat brush that I bent the ferrule about 60 deg. I use it quite a bit for those places I "forgot" about while building. Or, to get glue (water soluble) into a spot for the same reason.

Thanks guys. I had thought of impaling a bit of foam on the end of an Allen key, but the idea of bending Q-tips hadn't occurred to me. I'll have a go at bending a brush or two, too.

Originally Posted by Trevorh

Thanks guys. I had thought of impaling a bit of foam on the end of an Allen key, but the idea of bending Q-tips hadn't occurred to me. I'll have a go at bending a brush or two, too.

I cut some foam from a foam paint brush and use forceps to hold it with. You can adjust the grip to reach most any place.

Originally Posted by mkeveney

Here's one I discovered some time ago; maybe new to some of you.

I've had bad luck with my 'Master Airscrew' balsa stripper when cutting anything but the lightest stock. The blade wanders or slips in it's clamp, giving a terribly inaccurate cut.

Instead use a 'base' piece of 1/8" ply. The blade should be extended enough to poke into the ply a bit. This keeps it from wandering. Then grip the stripper and the ply in one hand, and feed the stock through with your other.

For really tough stock, clamp the stripper to the ply piece as shown. I have a pair of 1" C-clamps that are perfect for the job.

With this setup I can accurately strip stock up to 1/4" thick, even from very dense balsa.

-Matt

That's a good one Matt. I havn't tried it yet. Here is my solution, just finished it, but havn't set it up yet. I need to get the right diamond wheel yet.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...TOPIC_ID=20046

I made it to handle 36" long sheets.

- ok, now I had a chance to try it, i didn't buy the right blades, I think it will work better on thinner stock, I was cutting 3/16" thick, took some time, Also need to set up to use my larger shop vac.

- As to Matt's solution, that works really good. On harder balsa, It didn't work the best for me, but may with more practice.

Head over to the plastic display model store and look on their tool supply board. I found that various sizes of bristle-tipped onetime applicators are available, and they're meant to be bent to fit the job. Kinda' like a q-tip if such was made for paint. These are sold in blister packs, and I've used the smallest of them very successfully for display model details

Thanks for that Peter. Meanwhile I have managed to bend a couple of standard brushes to about 45 degrees so will see how I get on with those first. I'll have a scout around the plastic modellers' counter next time I get the chance - all I turned up on Google was cosmetic brushes and applicators - at fashion-premium prices!

Now where is my right angle drive attachment for my Dremel tool? Comes in handy for drilling or cutting with a cutoff wheel inside a fuselage or wing structure when making crash repairs. A mini Jacobs chuck makes changing drill bits or accessories much quicker and easier. My new Sony ICF-38 AM/FM AC/DC portable radio just came from Amazon . Small size, good sound, good selectivity will keep me company whilst building models etc., and all for $26.47 including shipping. Also available at Target, Fry's when in stock.

Originally Posted by Tsavah

I can see how this would work pretty well when needing to cut larger/thicker balsa strips. I suppose the only other option would be a table saw like Micro-mart and others sell.

There was a ' How to' make your Master Airscrew Stripper work well thread in HPA
The Black base needs squaring as it must come out of a mold. so it has a slight vertical taper : sand it out.
Then snap the very end off the #11 Exacto blade.
It's the tiny tip that causes the wandering apparently

Did both to mine and it works!!... Perfectly.... Try it??

Originally Posted by Bare

Then snap the very end off the #11 Exacto blade.
It's the tiny tip that causes the wandering apparently

Did both to mine and it works!!... Perfectly.... Try it??

Yep, I found this out accidentally ...Works very well with smaller stock, but I still would like to make something a little better for larger stock.