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Old Oct 10, 2013, 08:45 PM
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Super cub battery, help!

Hey guys,
So I just started the aircraft rc hobby ( been doing cars and trucks) and I have a question about the lipo battery. So I went to the hobby shop to buy a battery to an old super cub that a friend gave me, it's the non lipo version. When I asked for a super cub battery, the guy said that a 3s 1300mah lipo would work. It looked so small so I thought it would work, but the plugs aren't the same. Do you guys think I can change the plug to fit the esc on my cub and the battery won't fry it out? So the question is would a 3s lipo work on a super cub?
Thanks!
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Old Oct 10, 2013, 09:26 PM
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USA, CA, Oceanside
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Yes it will work and yes you can change the plugs.

Do you have a Lipo charger?
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Old Oct 10, 2013, 09:27 PM
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Little more info if you can. Which Super Cub, what motor, prop, gearbox, esc, and such.

Little tough to tell you what you need when we don't know what you have.

Many of the older stuff was brushed and would run on a 3S pack but for how long?
The 3S pack is probably higher voltage then the original pack was.
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Old Oct 10, 2013, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Glacier Girl View Post
Little more info if you can. Which Super Cub, what motor, prop, gearbox, esc, and such.

Little tough to tell you what you need when we don't know what you have.

Many of the older stuff was brushed and would run on a 3S pack but for how long?
The 3S pack is probably higher voltage then the original pack was.
Oh sorry I believe it was a hobby zone super cub n3419p and it is brushed
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Old Oct 11, 2013, 08:23 AM
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The problem is not whether the LiPo can be used. If memory serves me right, the SC that you have was designed to be run on a seven cell NiMh pack. I believe they were 1.1V per cell, so the ESC and motor were designed for 7.7V. You could use a 2-cell LiPo, which would give you 7.4V. The slightly lower volts would be offset by the flatter performance curve of the LiPo, so that you would have less power on the initial stages of flight, about the same half-way through, and more power at the end of the flight. If you use a 3-cell, you would need to be very careful to keep the throttle at 50% or less, otherwise you will fry the ESC and/or motor. The other problem is that your ESC does not have the required low voltage cut-off that is needed to protect the LiPo from being discharged too much. On your initial flights you would need to land the plane every minute or so and take voltage readings of the battery to determine how close you are coming to the battery's low voltage limit. You can only discharge a LiPo too much one time, after that the battery is toast.
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Old Oct 11, 2013, 08:53 AM
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Nice Leo, couldn't have done better myself.
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Old Oct 11, 2013, 12:33 PM
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YHOOooo.....there is a plug on the older ( red and white Super Cub ) model that MUST be unplugged before you use a lipo battery on this model. On the rcvr ; look in the corner that has the plugs on it.....there is a tiny little jumper wire enclosed in black plastic that unplugs....unplug it and put it in a safe place , or tape it inside of the fuselage somewhere. While your inside of the fuselage , disconnect the wire going to the "ACT " sensores....2 of them, one on the front top by window , one on the bottom few inches back from the battery tray. Who ever had the plane before might have had these disconnected already. Your new lipo might or might not fit into the battery compartment.....you might need to enlarge it a bit. ENJOY!!!!
BOB
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Old Oct 11, 2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by N3OO View Post
YHOOooo.....there is a plug on the older ( red and white Super Cub ) model that MUST be unplugged before you use a lipo battery on this model. On the rcvr ; look in the corner that has the plugs on it.....there is a tiny little jumper wire enclosed in black plastic that unplugs....unplug it and put it in a safe place , or tape it inside of the fuselage somewhere. While your inside of the fuselage , disconnect the wire going to the "ACT " sensores....2 of them, one on the front top by window , one on the bottom few inches back from the battery tray. Who ever had the plane before might have had these disconnected already. Your new lipo might or might not fit into the battery compartment.....you might need to enlarge it a bit. ENJOY!!!!
BOB
Ohh thanks a lot man but it's okay, it trust you and the other guys but I'm not gonna risk a battery for a whole esc and motor. I'll just get the stock battery. We'll thank you guys for the help anyways! You saved me some money here.
What sucks is I can't return the battery to the hobby shop, I lost the receipt!
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Old Oct 11, 2013, 11:02 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
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The 1300 3s is fine, that's what the new SuperCub uses and it's the same motor.
BUT:
As stated, the connector is not good enough. You need to change it.
You need to remove the jumper or it won't run right (hits NiMh LVC). Even so DO NOT run it to LVC as that setting is a bit too low. Jumper pix here:
http://supercubclub.proboards.com/thread/988

The 3S packs more power. The old stock 10x8 prop is too big. You risk burning out the ESC (not cheap). Get the new stock 9x6 lipo prop or a GWS 10x6.

The battery box WAS designed for 7-cell NiMh. Some lipos don't fit well. One of the most common mods is a bit of creative carving on the battery box.

That's it. Really not too bad.
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Old Oct 12, 2013, 06:59 PM
rcnova
United States, IL, West Chicago
Joined Jul 2009
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Yes, the 3S 1300 works fine - need to change the plug (would change the plug on the plane as it is easier to get Lipo with EC3 connector).

The big deal is the low voltage cutoff. The custom reciever/ESC has a jumper cable you move when you switch from Nimh to Lipo batteries.
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Old Oct 12, 2013, 07:00 PM
rcnova
United States, IL, West Chicago
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova - K View Post
Yes, the 3S 1300 works fine - need to change the plug (would change the plug on the plane as it is easier to get Lipo with EC3 connector).

The big deal is the low voltage cutoff. The custom reciever/ESC has a jumper cable you move when you switch from Nimh to Lipo batteries.
I did this change on mine - it works great - less weight - more power. Never had a problem with several seasons of flying.
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Old Oct 13, 2013, 12:01 AM
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Okay thanks for the info guys. Im goin to the hobbyshop to change the plugs. i went yesterday to my LHS and found the normal battery and i bought props.
Heres my new question...
if i run the 9x6 prop on the normal battery what would happen? the stock one is a 10x8 right?
which one is bettery for the stock and the lipo. thanks!
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Old Oct 13, 2013, 11:18 AM
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United States, WA, Seattle
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Old Nimh = black with yellow tips, fat 10x8
3S lipo = PZ 9x6 or GWS 10x6

With the NiMh and the 9x6 my guess is IF it would fly it would be pathetic.
If you run the fat 10x8 on the lipo it creates too big a load and can burn out the ESC.
You will NOT want to be swapping batteries and props back in forth. Try it, you'll find out.

Numbers alone DO NOT tell the whole story on props. For electric getting the proper sized prop for a motor+battery+ESC is CRITICAL.
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Old Oct 13, 2013, 01:49 PM
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United States, NC, Troy
Joined Dec 2008
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The 10x8 prop was ostensibly for the float version of the Cub, but I ran it for a long time on mine (and a 2200mah lipo) with no problems. I finally toasted it when it nosed over and I didn't shut the motor down fast enough. Prop was against the ground and couldn't turn.

I've since gone brushless and Spektrum, as well as adding ailerons, flaps, removing dihedral, glassing the top of the wing, adding a "drop" servo for water bombs, and towed a banner with it. It's a hoot!

Have fun!
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Old Oct 13, 2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwlf View Post
The 10x8 prop was ostensibly for the float version of the Cub, but I ran it for a long time on mine (and a 2200mah lipo) with no problems.
Some people get away with it. A lot of folks don't Those that don't are pretty pissed since it's a $50 replacement (stupid proprietary #$@#@%).
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