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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:16 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
A Rdnek's Avatar
United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
4,029 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petefoss View Post
Without the Anylink, I would not have bought the UM F-86.
And I would not have bought the DR-1 with the AnyLink handout, so I can buy the F-86 later.
It just goes on-and-on-and-on-and-on...........
Ron
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:35 PM
Inciting Riots
village_idiot's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
9,689 Posts
It may push Spektrum to bring out a "universal" trainer connected module much like this. I think the old modules as we know them are dead, nothing new takes a removable module so things like the 8FG will need a trainer connection.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 12:35 AM
Dave Register
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Bartlesville, OK
Joined Jul 2004
912 Posts
DR-1/Futaba 9C

Got one of the AnyLink freebies with an Albatross and slapped it on my old Futaba 9C and it bound and mapped just fine. Pulled the frequency module on the 9C but it's otherwise plug n play.

I have the Spektrum systems on my 9303s and they work great with the Horizon Hobby micros. The Tower/Tactic units provide another outlet and puts my old 9C back to work.

Had/have the same problem with the motor on the Albatross. It worked well at first but then started to fade. There's some sort of imbalance or slightly sloppy bearing that vibrates at lower speeds. It does not seem to be the plastic gear or it's bearing but seems to be in the motor. A few drops of oil helped smooth it out and the motor now runs smoothly at anything above ~ 1/2 throttle. Below that it rattles and vibrates and appears to throw a load on the battery as the flight time diminishes noticeably at half throttle. Might be nice to throw in one of the P-51 motors!

Albatross flies well with somewhat slow right rudder but faster to the left (motor torque?). Other than the motor issue, it's a fun little plane and a nice indoor system that complements the other BNF product line.

Fun stuff!

- Dave R

PS - I'm mode 2 but a friend prefers mode 1 and that does not seem to map well on some of the transmitters. Does anyone have a mode 1 setup with Hitec?
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Last edited by okiesoar; Feb 22, 2012 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Typos and plane correction
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:08 AM
Registered User
Blacksburg, VA 24060 USA
Joined Feb 2000
3,238 Posts
I maidened my Fokker Dr.1 a few nights ago with AnyLink velcroed to the back of my DX6i (I don't like the supplied hard-lock stuff supplied with the AL). It worked a treat, of course.

Furthermore, because the AL sits nicely on the back of the DX6i, I can leave it on there when I put the transmitter back into its case. So I won't forget it when I go out to play.

Jim R...
...who is mostly played out...
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 12:12 PM
Dave Register
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Bartlesville, OK
Joined Jul 2004
912 Posts
Albatross

A brief follow-up - the AnyLink system continues to work nicely and will be a nice asset for indoor micro. However, the Albatross motor is shot after about 6 flights. Even with some light grease on the gears, it continues to vibrate and cannot spin up to adequate speeds. Current draw appears to be high as it can't take off with the supplied battery and barely makes it into the sky with a 30C Turnigy.

It's in the motor as it will not start from an 'off' position but needs a tap on the prop to get it going.

Too bad as the plane and the radio are pretty neat.

Looks like the motor mount is buried in foam in the nose and replacing the motor will pretty much wreck the front end. Haven't found replacement parts on Tower web site.

Anyone else having motor problems and may have come up with a fix?

- D
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 03:47 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
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United States, IL, Urbana
Joined Nov 2006
820 Posts
Motor, HCAA6307 Go to the Albatros page look at replacement parts. hope this helps you?
Jim
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 04:07 PM
Hobbico Employee
Champaign, IL
Joined Sep 2006
75 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by okiesoar View Post
A brief follow-up - the AnyLink system continues to work nicely and will be a nice asset for indoor micro. However, the Albatross motor is shot after about 6 flights. Even with some light grease on the gears, it continues to vibrate and cannot spin up to adequate speeds. Current draw appears to be high as it can't take off with the supplied battery and barely makes it into the sky with a 30C Turnigy.

It's in the motor as it will not start from an 'off' position but needs a tap on the prop to get it going.

Too bad as the plane and the radio are pretty neat.

Looks like the motor mount is buried in foam in the nose and replacing the motor will pretty much wreck the front end. Haven't found replacement parts on Tower web site.

Anyone else having motor problems and may have come up with a fix?

- D

Couple of things.
1 You may want to call our product support group as this sounds like abnormal wear. http://hobbyservices.com/

2. The motor in the Fokker is the same as the Playmate (HCAA6307). It does use a different gearbox though (HCAA6350)
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:25 AM
Dave Register
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Bartlesville, OK
Joined Jul 2004
912 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter88 View Post
Couple of things.
1 You may want to call our product support group as this sounds like abnormal wear. http://hobbyservices.com/

2. The motor in the Fokker is the same as the Playmate (HCAA6307). It does use a different gearbox though (HCAA6350)
Thank you.

Already opened it up and swapped out the motor/gear for a P-51 motor/gear/prop I had lying around. Just had to swap connectors. The ESC seems to handle the P-51 OK and the thrust is pretty stout now.

It's a neat plane and others around here have it with no motor issues so this is likely isolated to this specific one.

- Dave R
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 03:31 AM
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United States, IL, Manteno
Joined Dec 2006
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I guess I'm having a 'senior moment'....

I want to program a mix for my Dr. 1 in my DX8 so that when I increase the throttle, say above 40%, I also get down elevator. The Dr. 1 really likes to climb with throttle.

I have a mix for my Albatros that does something similar except that at 0 throttle the elevator is up. What I want for the Dr.1 is that the elevator would be neutral until about 40% throttle and then go down with increased throttle.

Nothing I've tried gives me the results I'm looking for. Any ideas?

Thanks guys!

Don
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:39 AM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
A Rdnek's Avatar
United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Don View Post
I guess I'm having a 'senior moment'....

I want to program a mix for my Dr. 1 in my DX8 so that when I increase the throttle, say above 40%, I also get down elevator. The Dr. 1 really likes to climb with throttle.

I have a mix for my Albatros that does something similar except that at 0 throttle the elevator is up. What I want for the Dr.1 is that the elevator would be neutral until about 40% throttle and then go down with increased throttle.

Nothing I've tried gives me the results I'm looking for. Any ideas?

Thanks guys!

Don

Don: That is a good question. I want the answer to it as well, except I am going to use my DX7 with my AnyLink as I don't want to buy another cable, or make one, for my DX8.
I am sure you can get an answer here. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1191364
You can get into a lot of controversy in that thread, but when you go in there with a specific question, you can get help.
Keep in mind the first couple of responses will probably be "it is in the manual" or "go read the manual" or something like that. But soon someone will give you the answer you are looking for.
Good luck I will be monitoring the link I gave you.
Ron
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Last edited by A Rdnek; Feb 23, 2012 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 08:51 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
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United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
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I got my DR-1 and AnyLink today.
My first impression was not good.
When I opened the box the first thing that caught my eye is the rudder was laying over sideways. At that point I should have left it in the box and called Tower, but I decided to fix it. It did not seem to have any glue on the tiny hinge, so I tried to glue it, didn't work very well so I put some clear tape on the hinge line. That did not work too well either, but It is on there but I don't think it will stay.
Next I hooked up the AnyLink to my DX7. I used a clean memory location. When I moved the aileron stick it moved the rudder and elevator together like they where controlled by a mix. Rudder stick did nothing at all and no throttle. So I tried the "Alternate Channel Mapping" as described on page 5 of the manual. That put the elevator on the elevator stick, rudder on the rudder stick (reversed), and the throttle worked properly.
So now I have the pitch axis on the elevator stick, and the roll axis on the rudder stick, and can't find any way to correct this. I have never flown a plane with pitch and the roll axis on opposite sticks, and I am not about to try now.
Is there a way of correcting this short of creating a rudder to aileron mix? That just doesn't seem right.
Thanks for any help.
Ron
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 09:19 PM
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United States, IL, Manteno
Joined Dec 2006
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Hi Ron,

This .pdf document shows how to change the rudder to the right stick when using the Anylink on the DX7 .
Right Rudder Stick Conversions

You have the option of having rudder only on the right stick, or left and right as you prefer.

Thanks for the link to the radio thread too!

Don
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:06 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
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United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Don View Post
Hi Ron,

This .pdf document shows how to change the rudder to the right stick when using the Anylink on the DX7 .
Right Rudder Stick Conversions

You have the option of having rudder only on the right stick, or left and right as you prefer.

Thanks for the link to the radio thread too!

Don
GEE WIZZ! That sure is useful info, really simple too, and it works.
Why in the world isn't there anything in the manual about this?
Thanks for the link.
Don't let that DX8 thread eat you up, they get a little wicked there sometimes.
Ron
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 02:42 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,915 Posts
Ron, just for info, the mix method works with the Spektrum (and HobbyKing Super Micro) bricks as well.

Note the small print however. Rudder trim stays on the original rudder channel. Had me fooled the first time when I was madly trying to trim out a turn tendency with the right hand trim and nothing happened.

That DX8 thread is a classic for the strongly opinionated and under-informed.

I had one guy on my ignore list and one day on the DX8 thread I had a whole scrollable screen with nothing but one line "This message is hidden because NAME is on your ignore list." messages. He must have posted about 30 opinions in a row!

It's what makes the forums fun but I have no idea how Andy Kunz puts up with most of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Rdnek View Post
GEE WIZZ! That sure is useful info, really simple too, and it works.
Why in the world isn't there anything in the manual about this?
Thanks for the link.
Don't let that DX8 thread eat you up, they get a little wicked there sometimes.
Ron
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 09:52 AM
Inciting Riots
village_idiot's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
9,689 Posts
Makes me glad I can send any physical control to any channel on my radio, I never need to mess with this type of stuff.
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