Hello! I have a few questions about the stock 1/16 E-Revo I'm hoping you can answer.

I own two Traxxas Ruster VXLs and run them to death on NiMH, love 'em! Now I'm buying the 1/16 E-Revo.

My neighbor has a dirt track in his back yard and I'll be 'cutting' one in my yard this spring. I am looking to race for fun, not serious competition.


E-Revo 1/16 General Questions:

- What spare part do you recommend (i.e. the first ones expected to break)? Axle carriers, etc...

- Any add-on or improvement parts you'd recommend from the start?

- Do the stock tires run well on dirt, and wear well?

- Do the stock tires wear quickly on pavement?


E-Revo 1/16 Battery Questions:

I understand the car will run on either one or two batteries. I also believe that 2S w/higher MaH is the max size that will fit in the battery compartments, so I assume I'll go with 2S LiPo. I already own a LiPo charger.

- Can you confirm each battery compartment is 94mm x 34mm x 17mm?

- How long of run-time do you get on one vs. two stock NiMH batteries?

- Will LiPo provide a longer run time than NiMH, even at a similar Mah rating?

- What is the recommended 2S LiPo C-rating? 25? Maximum that will fit, I'd imagine

- Recommended 2S LiPo batteries (preferably HobbyCity, that will still fit after a little expected swelling)?

- Is it practical to run the batteries in parallel? This would theoretically double the run-time (Mah), but not the speed (Volts).

Thanks in advance!

I can't answer most of those as I've hardly driven my truck But I've read that the A-arms break from hard jumps....RPM is releasing some replacements early next year though.

Improvements from stock would be harder springs (black rear, tan front) and heavier shock oil (50wt all round) - I have the stuff, but haven't done this yet. Other recommended changes are steel balls instead of the stock plastic ones.

If you get clicking from your diff after some runs, open them up and shim them before they strip gear teeth. The diffs come with a light oil, but mine were empty so I filled them with 50k diff oil front and rear. I also shimmed my rear diff while i had them opened as it felt a maybe a tad lose.

This thing wheelies a lot by the way...so go easy on the trigger finger. Or you can get a center diff and fill it with 100k oil or so.

Regarding batteries...the battery tray is kind of tapered on the ends, so it depends where yo utake your measurements from. The shape is sorta like this
/------------\
| |
\------------/

I haven't tried the stock batteries, so can't comment there.
Yes, Lipo should provide a longer runtime than equivalent Nimh since Lipo can hold a more constant discharge.
I'm running 2s 2200mah 20C lipos in parallel in the truck. They are from hobbycity. They fit, but the wires are a bit large so you need to open up the trucks battery bay doors a bit. See the posts in this link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1147143
There are 3s batteries from hobbycity that fit as well...some are listed in the aforementioned thread.

Hope this helps....merry christmas!

Edit: A metal gear servo upgrade would be good as well. I have a hitec 82mg sitting here that I haven't put in yet. I think the 85mg can be used too...

You need new shocks the stock ones are junk they leak i use a 2.06 spring in the front and the rear is 2.22 If you run onroad most of the time try 50/80 shock oil combo as 50 in the front and 80 in the rear but get the traxxas teflon shocks they are 44.99 there is alot of slop in the knuckles you need to change those too there is alot too this truck to make it handle like the big brother i will go more in depth later i got to go but if i were you i would buy a used one preferably a roller and get your own electronics because it will save you alot of money trust me i wish i did buy used like i had planned!

Originally Posted by E-REVO 1/16

You need new shocks the stock ones are junk they leak i use a 2.06 spring in the front and the rear is 2.22 If you run onroad most of the time try 50/80 shock oil combo as 50 in the front and 80 in the rear but get the traxxas teflon shocks they are 44.99 there is alot of slop in the knuckles you need to change those too there is alot too this truck to make it handle like the big brother i will go more in depth later i got to go but if i were you i would buy a used one preferably a roller and get your own electronics because it will save you alot of money trust me i wish i did buy used like i had planned!

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the E-Revo last night. Both you and Stona recommended the black & tan springs, so I ordered those. When the weather breaks I'll order the 'metal' shocks, too. If they're like my Rustler, the tops on the composite shock will pop off & leak if enough pressure is on them.

How do I upgrade the knuckles?

Originally Posted by stona

I can't answer most of those as I've hardly driven my truck But I've read that the A-arms break from hard jumps....RPM is releasing some replacements early next year though.

Improvements from stock would be harder springs (black rear, tan front) and heavier shock oil (50wt all round) - I have the stuff, but haven't done this yet. Other recommended changes are steel balls instead of the stock plastic ones.

If you get clicking from your diff after some runs, open them up and shim them before they strip gear teeth. The diffs come with a light oil, but mine were empty so I filled them with 50k diff oil front and rear. I also shimmed my rear diff while i had them opened as it felt a maybe a tad lose.

This thing wheelies a lot by the way...so go easy on the trigger finger. Or you can get a center diff and fill it with 100k oil or so.

Regarding batteries...the battery tray is kind of tapered on the ends, so it depends where yo utake your measurements from. The shape is sorta like this
/------------\
| |
\------------/

I haven't tried the stock batteries, so can't comment there.
Yes, Lipo should provide a longer runtime than equivalent Nimh since Lipo can hold a more constant discharge.
I'm running 2s 2200mah 20C lipos in parallel in the truck. They are from hobbycity. They fit, but the wires are a bit large so you need to open up the trucks battery bay doors a bit. See the posts in this link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1147143
There are 3s batteries from hobbycity that fit as well...some are listed in the aforementioned thread.

Hope this helps....merry christmas!

Edit: A metal gear servo upgrade would be good as well. I have a hitec 82mg sitting here that I haven't put in yet. I think the 85mg can be used too...

Thanks for responding, Stona. I ordered the RPM front a-arms, due Jan 4. RPM's parts are longer lasting (less brittle) than Traxxas, at least for the axle carriers on my Rustler, we used to break those a lot. I'll also think about the other things you mention.

Where are these 'steel balls' you mention. In the shocks? Will the metal shocks have these steel balls?

I am about to pull the trigger on HobbyCity's Zippy Flighmax 2200MaH 20C the LiPos, as mentioned in the thread you referenced. I may order five as I read that some are Dead On Arrival.

These are what I mean by the steel balls. Actually they're the little hollow pivot balls in the suspension (tie your shocks, rockers, and other suspension bits together). Stockers are plastic. http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO
I've just read they're a good upgrade over at the traxxas forums; I don't have them myself.

The stock shocks seem to have a steel hollow ball at the "inboard" mounting locations (the upper ends of the shocks, closer to the motor), but plastic hollow balls at the "outboard" mounting locations on the the rockers. I don't know if upgrade shocks come with metal ones....i guess it would depend on the brand maybe.

Haha, I ordered 4 of those hobbycity zippy's due to fear of DOA batteries (I only wanted two). All four seem to work fine for me, and now I have a spare set. But it's not a big deal as they're insanely cheap.

I just got one of these little brushless mini e-revos as well as the full size brushless revo. I ran two of the duratrax1600mah nimh in parallel on the mini revo and then bought a couple of the 30c 2cell lipo packs and ran them in parallel and all I can say it WOW!! , the difference is amazing! The lipos have so much more punch than the nimh batts! The lipos hold there voltage much better under load than the nimh batterys do. I find it's much, much easier to pull wheelies with the two cell lipo than with the nimh when you are already moving along. Just my 2 cents.

Would two of these fit for 3s power and run 'em in parallel....................It would scream if it works.............3200 mah of runtime too.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...0mAh_3S1P_20C_

Originally Posted by Steve Klyce

I just got one of these little brushless mini e-revos as well as the full size brushless revo. I ran two of the duratrax1600mah nimh in parallel on the mini revo and then bought a couple of the 30c 2cell lipo packs and ran them in parallel and all I can say it WOW!! , the difference is amazing! The lipos have so much more punch than the nimh batts! The lipos hold there voltage much better under load than the nimh batterys do. I find it's much, much easier to pull wheelies with the two cell lipo than with the nimh when you are already moving along. Just my 2 cents.

You got the mini AND the 1/10 brushless revos?? man i'm jealous hahaha

Are the 1/16 revo any better in deep snow then the 1/10 , just thinking lighter weight may keep them up top rather then sinking. Anyone suggest and improved tire?

for snow, paddle tires or chains on the stock tires.

Originally Posted by jettrooper02

for snow, paddle tires or chains on the stock tires.

Ive seen those, do you know where they are available?

Originally Posted by snoshoe62

Are the 1/16 revo any better in deep snow then the 1/10 , just thinking lighter weight may keep them up top rather then sinking. Anyone suggest and improved tire?

I just sold my fully built brushless e-revo(even sold the smc 9000mah lipos and a futaba 2.4 radio) It had the mamba monster 200kv set up in it. I couldnt get the diffs or driveshafts to hold up(bought mip,vantage, traxxas, trd cvds and they all broke) I wasnt hard on it , just raced on a small track. I thought it was going to be a solid and durable as my E-lst2 but far from it. Now my mini-erevo has been awsome. So far no durablitay issues and I can tell you I have beeten the crap out of this thing. The only issue I have is the stock suspention set up is way to soft(no biggy though) and the knuckles have alot of slop in them and no way to adjust them(the bigger erevo had a way to adjust them to keep a nice tight but smooth feeling on the suspention balls) I belive an aftermarket companies have a fix for that. My major issue is even though I have geared down a tooth on the pinion I still have heat issues on the moto and esc with my 2s 2200 20C lipo. Within 10 to 15min(depending on driiving conditions) I have an esc thasts 165º and the motoraround 180ºF. Thats way tooo hot. I cant get threw one full battery with out overheating it. If I could do something about that and get the new knuckles I would be 100% satisfied with the mini e-revo.

.

Whats a good racing tire and rim that will fit on the mini e-revo? I dont like the stock(too slippery)

Originally Posted by losifanatic

I just sold my fully built brushless e-revo(even sold the smc 9000mah lipos and a futaba 2.4 radio) It had the mamba monster 200kv set up in it. I couldnt get the diffs or driveshafts to hold up(bought mip,vantage, traxxas, trd cvds and they all broke) I wasnt hard on it , just raced on a small track. I thought it was going to be a solid and durable as my E-lst2 but far from it. Now my mini-erevo has been awsome. So far no durablitay issues and I can tell you I have beeten the crap out of this thing. The only issue I have is the stock suspention set up is way to soft(no biggy though) and the knuckles have alot of slop in them and no way to adjust them(the bigger erevo had a way to adjust them to keep a nice tight but smooth feeling on the suspention balls) I belive an aftermarket companies have a fix for that. My major issue is even though I have geared down a tooth on the pinion I still have heat issues on the moto and esc with my 2s 2200 20C lipo. Within 10 to 15min(depending on driiving conditions) I have an esc thasts 165º and the motoraround 180ºF. Thats way tooo hot. I cant get threw one full battery with out overheating it. If I could do something about that and get the new knuckles I would be 100% satisfied with the mini e-revo.

.

are you running a single 2s or 2x 2s in parallel or series? 2 x 2s in series is more power then the motor and esc was designed for. Hard to beleive it gets that hot on 1x 2s battery