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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:55 PM
Deviant
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Joined Jul 2012
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Steps in turning the blades = strong magnets.

It's ok and normal.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:04 PM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
Guys,
Thanks for the awesome responds, I'll try it and let you know how it goes
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 06:35 AM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
I've tried to fly my heli today, and it is tricky...
Can I set it to fly more like a flybar FP while I'm learning, so when I let go of the sticks it will go into a hover?
I'm using Tom Z begginer setting, and set the pot to 4 oclock (see my pic). Is this 'easy mode'? What's the affect of changing the pot on flight characteristics?
Thanks
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 06:39 AM
Deviant
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Joined Jul 2012
1,194 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
I've tried to fly my heli today, and it is tricky...
Can I set it to fly more like a flybar FP while I'm learning, so when I let go of the sticks it will go into a hover?
I'm using Tom Z begginer setting, and set the pot to 4 oclock (see my pic). Is this 'easy mode'? What's the affect of changing the pot on flight characteristics?
Thanks
No, you can't. You have to deal with correcting any drift you get.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 02:28 PM
Things that do fly
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In my house ;-) The uk
Joined Dec 2008
2,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
I've tried to fly my heli today, and it is tricky...
Can I set it to fly more like a flybar FP while I'm learning, so when I let go of the sticks it will go into a hover?
I'm using Tom Z begginer setting, and set the pot to 4 oclock (see my pic). Is this 'easy mode'? What's the affect of changing the pot on flight characteristics?
Thanks
I think the genius is an easy micro to fly,,,,i would leave the pots alone and just alter the TX settings,,,add expo to soften up the center of the sticks and lower the pitch curves to make the bird fly more gentle there is no one way to program a TX as we all fly different and like different responses from the sticks,,,cut the pitch curves down by 50 percent and then work back up until you find your sweet spot dude.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 02:28 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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United States, AR, North Little Rock
Joined Feb 2011
1,177 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
I've tried to fly my heli today, and it is tricky...
Can I set it to fly more like a flybar FP while I'm learning, so when I let go of the sticks it will go into a hover?
I'm using Tom Z begginer setting, and set the pot to 4 oclock (see my pic). Is this 'easy mode'? What's the affect of changing the pot on flight characteristics?
Thanks
From what I've read the pointer on the pot is opposite the flat spot which would make your setting around 10 oclock. But that is the right direction for tamer flight.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:07 PM
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Big Island of Hawaii
Joined Jan 2011
247 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by j35u5fr34k View Post
Looking good without running the wires through the boom is an oxymoron IMHO. Either run them through the boom if you have time/patience or run them on the left side of the boom or bottom (tail in perspective). Don't wrap them in my opinion as the blades could strike the wires causing damage in many ways.

Honestly, running them in the boom is the best. Make sure you have extra 1-1.5 mm heat shrink on hand. It is really easy to solder a few wires if you have a helping hands such as the one from Harbor Freight.
I use a small red cocktail straw to cover my tails, perfect fit and better vis. You can even slit it with an exacto knife and slip it onto an assembled tail if you like.

RD
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:44 PM
Registered User
Austria
Joined Sep 2008
218 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlk69 View Post
Without soldering I would wrap wires around boom then put shrink tubing over that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j35u5fr34k View Post
Honestly, running them in the boom is the best.

Running them on the bottom of the boom with heat shrink sounds good, but what will happen in case of a crash on a sharp surface?
I will run them through the boom to be sure that it'll be ok!

Guys, thanks for your responds.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 09:25 PM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rldeveer View Post
I use a small red cocktail straw to cover my tails, perfect fit and better vis. You can even slit it with an exacto knife and slip it onto an assembled tail if you like.

RD
That's a great idea. Have to try it.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 09:27 PM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helicopter_new View Post
Running them on the bottom of the boom with heat shrink sounds good, but what will happen in case of a crash on a sharp surface?
I will run them through the boom to be sure that it'll be ok!

Guys, thanks for your responds.
You mean like a blunt edge such as the edge of a door? I think it is more likely to be damaged by blades.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 03:12 AM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
It stopped raining today, I took my new heli to the park and was having a blast practicing my hover. I than tried some rudder while hovering and it started going fast, so I cut the throttle and broke my tail boom. It crashed from about 3ft (1 meter) over grass , I thought it is much more durable than that... I guess I can use my spare V911 boom, but I think I'll wait for my sim to arrive first.

Cheers and a happy weekend.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 03:55 AM
Deviant
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Joined Jul 2012
1,194 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleShark View Post
It stopped raining today, I took my new heli to the park and was having a blast practicing my hover. I than tried some rudder while hovering and it started going fast, so I cut the throttle and broke my tail boom. It crashed from about 3ft (1 meter) over grass , I thought it is much more durable than that... I guess I can use my spare V911 boom, but I think I'll wait for my sim to arrive first.

Cheers and a happy weekend.
You can get a 1mm round CF rod and CA it inside the boom the make it more, muh more durable. but you need to re-route the wires on the outside and change the stock enamel wires to something PVC or silicone coated in order not to short them and fry the tail FET.

Careful though, with a solid boom you risk breaking the frame on bad crashes. I did break a frame once, but other than that, I'm more than happy since I'm not replacing booms once or twice every week.

With the stock hollow boom you must be careful with the landings on hard surfaces too, because they put strain on your boom where it enters the frame, and in time it will eventually split.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 07:24 AM
...if you take the time
Israel, Tel Aviv
Joined Jul 2012
212 Posts
Thanks sbstnp. For now, I think I'll just cut off the broken part (it broke entering the frame), and try a shorten boom (I'll check the wires for shorts). If I keep breaking them I'll try a solid boom. Let me know if this won't work.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 08:19 AM
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United States, MI, East Tawas
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbstnp View Post
You can get a 1mm round CF rod and CA it inside the boom the make it more, muh more durable. but you need to re-route the wires on the outside and change the stock enamel wires to something PVC or silicone coated in order not to short them and fry the tail FET.

Careful though, with a solid boom you risk breaking the frame on bad crashes. I did break a frame once, but other than that, I'm more than happy since I'm not replacing booms once or twice every week.

With the stock hollow boom you must be careful with the landings on hard surfaces too, because they put strain on your boom where it enters the frame, and in time it will eventually split.
This is how I broke my frame where the boom mount is.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 10:58 AM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,781 Posts
Can anyone tell me the difference between the MiniCP main gear and the Genius main gear?
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