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Old Jan 21, 2015, 11:39 AM
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United States, TN, Maryville
Joined Mar 2011
1,519 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 stang 19 View Post
I'll check those out as well...I even had a new motor mount sent to me since the first flight vibration was so bad it damaged the mount as well as the wing. They shipped me a new wing and mount for free. I can try changing out the collet...any recommendations on a good part?
Bent motor shaft?
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 11:40 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, Valparaiso
Joined Jan 2012
110 Posts
Quite possibly...going to take the motor out and check it all...might even upgrade motor as well
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 12:24 PM
Prop-Snapping Excitement!
RexGalore's Avatar
United States, CT, Hartford
Joined Feb 2014
137 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 stang 19 View Post
I'll check those out as well...I even had a new motor mount sent to me since the first flight vibration was so bad it damaged the mount as well as the wing. They shipped me a new wing and mount for free. I can try changing out the collet...any recommendations on a good part?
Either the DuBro or Eflite 3mm's have been recommended. I just used one I had from an old ARF with good success (pretty much any collet except the stock one).
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 12:55 PM
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Clive66's Avatar
United States, CA, Fontana
Joined May 2011
1,591 Posts
It appears that the Tidewater continues to have the same issues.
One would think by now, Flyzone would have corrected the vibration issue with the newer stock.
They can't help but be aware of it.
I really like the Tidewater & have been involved with 5 of them.
All had the same problems (vibration & ESC getting hot)
Ended up replacing Props, Prop adapters, Spinners & ESC's.
They all got fixed, but it is really bad that we have to go the extra expense & frustration to make a new plane the way it should have been to start with.

Note: I haven't come across a bent motor shaft yet being the cause of the vibration.
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 10:22 PM
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Canada, BC, Richmond
Joined May 2014
5 Posts
Thank you. I have had the same issue. Everyone is talking about props but the main issue has been the vibration from that motor mount pod at certain percentage throttle levels. Other than that this plane is great fun and easy to fly.
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 11:17 PM
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Clive66's Avatar
United States, CA, Fontana
Joined May 2011
1,591 Posts
I have friends that flew the Tidewater without fixing the vibration before flying it.
It doesn't take long before the motor mount gets loosened or even damaged.
As far as the mount pod, i found the first thing to do is really tighten the back screw that holds it to the wing & i mean really tighten it.
Out of the ones i have been involved with, there was only one that we were able to balance the stock prop good enough.
Replaced the prop adapter on all of them (the stock adapter is a POS)
I am using a Graupner prop to get the least amount of vibration (best prop of the ones that i tried, but a little expensive),
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Old Jan 25, 2015, 11:27 PM
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WVrailfan's Avatar
United States, WV, St Albans
Joined Jul 2011
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+1 on the Graupner prop. When I put one on my Tidewater it was like a different plane. Very smooth.

Jim
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Old Jan 26, 2015, 01:13 PM
Gravity is weak but persistant
Charlie P (NY)'s Avatar
United States, NY, Port Crane
Joined Aug 2009
331 Posts
I use the DuBro 32mm. Know of three Tidewaters flying this spinner. Slightly smaller than the original and a lot better balanced.

I pre-balanced with the spinner/collet on the prop before mounting it to the airplane.
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Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM
eagleflyer
Joined Dec 2014
9 Posts
clean, bright LED install in Tidewater

This post is to complete the series ending in post 727 in case anyone else wants to do the same thing

The LED install is now complete and is working well, switchable from my DX6i.

The Turnigy kit LEDs were used except that I changed to Dimension Engineering superbright NAVs for the wingtips. Clear epoxy was used to attach these lights to the underside of the wingtip.

The hole dug in the insert just outboard of the floats was used to tunnel from the tip for the nav lights as well as to the rear tip for the flashing white lights. The landing lights were installed in the centre of the decal in the leading edge and a hole was drilled back into the corner of the servo cutout.

I did not use the twisted red and black wires to go thru the wing but instead slit an old ethernet cable to free up lots of pairs.

The red (positive) nav light wire was used for a common positive wire for all lights.
The flashing white LED negative lead was connected to a blue wire and the positive lead was soldered to the red nav common positive wire. The nav wires and blue wire were notched across the underside of the wing to the servo cutout.

The (non flashing) landing light leads were pushed through into the servo cutout where the red lead was soldered to the common positive wire, and the black lead was soldered to a white wire. The white, blue and nav wires (4 total) were fished through from the servo cutout to the centre (along with the aileron servo wires). There was enough space between the servo and the cover to run the wires. The servo covers were pried off with a knife blade.

The same was done for both wings.

The need for a common positive (instead of negative) wire comes from the internal wiring of the yellow controller supplied with the Turnigy kit lights. Testing with a meter showed that all the positive pins in the plugs were connected internally and the negative pins had the appropriate resistors and flashing circuits. Also the positive 5V input wire was connected internally to the positive output pins. These internal connections made the external wiring much easier.

Both the yellow controller and the Turnigy Receiver Switch were velcroed side by side to the underside to the wing between the hole and the leading edge.
All the wiring connections were soldered.

A single flashing red light was installed in the fin and brought thru the fuselage using the complete assembly with the twisted red and black leads. The small plug makes it possible to disconnect the wing if necessary because the only other required connection is from the Turnigy Switch to the Gear channel of the receiver.

The end result is a complete set of lights including VERY BRIGHT red and green lights on the wingtips, bright landing lights to identify the plane coming toward you, and bright flashing white lights to identify the plane going away from you. The installation appears very clean. The very bright tip lights were wanted because if the plane was far away the normal LEDs would not be visible and confusion could result.

The small holes on the underside of the wing were patched with foam and the 6 inch slits (1/4" deep) between the outer holes and the servo cutouts were patched with foam safe cement.

Attached is my working wiring sketch of how the system was wired with the common positive. Sorry it is so rough but hopefully you can see it OK.


Barry
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Old Today, 01:38 AM
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United States, FL, Valparaiso
Joined Jan 2012
110 Posts
I'm unable to find a battery hatch online. Vendors seem to all be out of stock. Mine flew off during flight out in the middle of the bayou. Any recommendations on a place to order one from? Thanks!
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Old Today, 11:32 AM
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HuskyDude's Avatar
Canada, BC, Kamloops
Joined Jan 2011
473 Posts
Why not just get a small piece of Styrofoam and make a new one. Beside getting the right polarity magnet should be fairly easy.
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Old Today, 03:17 PM
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United States, FL, Valparaiso
Joined Jan 2012
110 Posts
Yea...I have definitely thought about going that route
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Old Today, 03:40 PM
What Goes Up Must Come Down
PRNDL's Avatar
United States, NJ
Joined Jan 2013
780 Posts
I added air vents front & rear, cut away the plastic covering the ESC's heat sink, turned the ESC so the heat sink is not facing the sidewall and lastly replaced the spinner with an Eflite collet type keeping the stock prop. No more heat build up or vibration.

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