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Old Jun 15, 2009, 11:52 PM
Crazy Canuck...in Dallas
Mckinney
Joined May 2009
88 Posts
Discussion
resin water-proofing?

ok guys(and gals?) i read a while ago to water-proof your wooden boat use a 20/80 mix of epoxy resin to acetone(they brushed it on but if think it would spay well with an airbrush to coat all the little nooks and crannies in my design).
what i wanna know is has anybody tried this before on a model boat? "they" say that the acetone thins the epoxy in order to let it soak into the balsa and after 2 or 3 coats it will be water-proof... i need to do this for my ballast tanks to function properly and not swell, rot, etc...
all input and CONSTRUCTIVE critisism would be appreciated, keep your negative put-downs to yourself(i have enough ppl putting me down in real life)

Thanx for the input.
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Old Jun 15, 2009, 11:58 PM
Registered User
Monterey Bay California
Joined Feb 2004
13,995 Posts
Acetone or denatured alcohol to thin, yes...

Spraying with an airbrush, I would recommend not doing that with any 2 part glues or paints without the proper breathing equipment... epoxy curing in your lungs is a very bad thing... Hardware store respirators don't count-

thinned epoxy will get into just about everywhere you want and don't want, with a brush...

hope you consider that constructive and not a negative put down...
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Old Jun 16, 2009, 12:12 AM
Crazy Canuck...in Dallas
Mckinney
Joined May 2009
88 Posts
perfect Aero...

thanx for the respirator input, i hadn't thought of that.

...and sorry for my rant about critisism, but it seems that some ppl on this forum don't realise most of us are experimenting as we go and "they" seem to be all high-and-mighty about their knowledge and forget that the rest of us are asking for help.

thanx again.
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Old Jun 16, 2009, 12:16 AM
Registered User
Monterey Bay California
Joined Feb 2004
13,995 Posts
You're welcome- sealing the interior with epoxy is a great idea- one or two coats should do it... the parts you cant get to with a brush, just pour a little thinned epoxy into the ballast tanks and "slosh" the boat... rotate it around, tip it upside down etc. until you feel the entire area has been covered... and remember, that stuff gets everywhere-
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Old Jun 16, 2009, 12:32 AM
Registered User
victoria, bc
Joined Oct 2003
754 Posts
What about using S-1 - understand its already thin enough to cover and seal -won't have to dilute with anything. Local boaters here seem to swear by it - just bought some to do the same job.
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Old Jun 16, 2009, 12:43 AM
Crazy Canuck...in Dallas
Mckinney
Joined May 2009
88 Posts
victoria? i was born in vancouver

ok, whats S-1? and hows BC doing? i haven't been back since 1981 and all i remember was big a** trees and mountains to ski(snow for those who don't know what skiing really is, TWO sticks are better than one...lol)
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Old Jun 16, 2009, 09:01 AM
Registered User
victoria, bc
Joined Oct 2003
754 Posts
Google S-1 epoxy - it will show up. Lots of changes out this way since '81 - lots of growth in the Vancouver area - you'd be surprised.
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 06:10 AM
Maltese sparrow
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Leicester, UK
Joined Oct 2004
536 Posts
jdcanadian
Thinning epoxy with any solvent does improve the penetration, but reduces the cure strength, increases the cure time.

I have just sealed a Balsa hull by this method - brushed on, not sprayed, and only the first coat was thinned. The first coat took 24 hours to harden to the rubbery stage, then a day in my post-cure box with gentle heat all the time. Eventually went good and hard and could be sanded well with wet-and-dry used wet. Second coat (unthinned) like glass

Spraying any 2-part paint has its real hazards - you DO NOT want to breath epoxy - suggest brushing with disposable brush or swooshing on with a rag (and protective gloves) or small roller with disposable head.
andrew
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Old Jun 17, 2009, 11:33 AM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2008
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I have always just brushed it on, never thought of spraying it. I let the first thinned coat dry for 24 hours and the put a second un-thinned coat over the first and the let the hull cure for a week. I also coat the underside of the deck just before I glue it down. I coat the inside of the hull be fore I sand the out side of the hull, this way the planks are more firmly glued together.

Andre
Portland Oregon
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 03:38 PM
Crazy Canuck...in Dallas
Mckinney
Joined May 2009
88 Posts
great ideas guys, one more question

for you guys that have done this before, i agree the thought of epoxy coated lungs doesn't sound good... so instead of super atomizing(?) the resin with an airbrush, what about an old "windex" spayer, would the resin be thin enough to get through the pump? also there would be almost no clean-up(just throw away the spayer). The "sloshing" idea is a good one but won't work with my design as the hull isn't covered yet, the rids and stringers need to be water-proofed first...
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Old Jun 18, 2009, 04:27 PM
Boats on the brain!!
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Arnold, Mo.
Joined Jul 2005
4,566 Posts
Epoxy would not be thin enough to go thru any kind of pump sprayer that I know of thinned or not. Spray guns used for 2-part resins are of an external mix design. The two parts are mixed mid stream as not to cure inside of the spray gun clogging it up.


On my wooden hulled boats the insides are brushed with 2 coats of unthinned epoxy after the hull is planked. The deck underside is coated with epoxy and secured to the frames making the insides totally covered/sealed in epoxy.
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 07:14 AM
Old wreck in Milwaukee
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United States, WI, West Allis
Joined May 2007
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jdcanadian are there going to be sealed compartments in your hull which you can't access for coating? I'm curious as to why you want to seal the frames before planking the hull. I have successfully used the "sloshing" method for all my wood hulls. One of my concerns has always been getting good adhesion between parts so I always wanted clean wood to clean wood. Once the hull is together the epoxy will encapsulate the entire structure except for the interior of sealed compartments. With a little pre-planning these areas can be dealt with too via access holes which can be closed up later. On an open structure like a hull skeleton spraying would probably work OK as long as there are no hard to get to areas. You are depending on air currents to carry the coating where you want it. I believe you will have better control and get the results you want by direct application of the epoxy. You also avoid the health problem. One more thing to consider is misted epoxy will settle on surfaces you don't intend like skin, clothing, workspace, etc. so cleanup might actually take longer.

BTW If you have a digital camera it would be great to see your project.
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 08:40 AM
WooHoo!
woodybob's Avatar
Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
5,074 Posts
Z-Poxy Finishing Resin works great. 50/50 mix, long working time, cures quickly, waterproof.
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 08:47 AM
**NOT GUILTY**
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Millbrook, Alabama
Joined Jun 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodybob
Z-Poxy Finishing Resin works great. 50/50 mix, long working time, cures quickly, waterproof.
I'll 2nd that!
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Old Jun 19, 2009, 07:07 PM
Peter Fitness
Lennox Head NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
7 Posts
I use epoxy resin both inside and outside all my wooden hulls, applied with a brush. It give a good waterproof finish on the outside, after much rubbing down, and also strengthens the wood. I also pour a little along the keel inside the hull, this adds to the water proofing, and also the strength of the keel to hull join.

Peter.
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