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Old Jun 16, 2010, 12:05 PM
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USA, NC, Matthews
Joined Aug 2008
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Thanks for the info LFLoTiTo. I assume you mean you gave full rudder left instead of full aileron left? Any idea what your approx rudder deflection is at full turn? I am just trying to get an idea on what the max should be as I did notice quite a bit of altitude loss when turning with rudder and had to add quite a bit of elevator and aileron to keep it straight. Maybe I was just using too much rudder. So to make sure I understand, even though you gave full rudder in the setup, the gain and limit values determine how much rudder is actually used by the OSD in RTH? What about the elevator mix? Does it match exactly what it saw in setup or does it use gain setting somewhere?
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 12:27 PM
Just want to fly...
LFLoTiTo's Avatar
Brazil
Joined Mar 2009
354 Posts
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Originally Posted by techspy View Post
Thanks for the info LFLoTiTo. I assume you mean you gave full rudder left instead of full aileron left? Any idea what your approx rudder deflection is at full turn? I am just trying to get an idea on what the max should be as I did notice quite a bit of altitude loss when turning with rudder and had to add quite a bit of elevator and aileron to keep it straight. Maybe I was just using too much rudder. So to make sure I understand, even though you gave full rudder in the setup, the gain and limit values determine how much rudder is actually used by the OSD in RTH? What about the elevator mix? Does it match exactly what it saw in setup or does it use gain setting somewhere?
You are correct, I wrote it wrong (fixed now).

The gains/limits seems to reduce your inputs, thatīs why I gave full rudder during the wizard. The wizzard suggests that you simulate a turn, but I have learned on my other plane that if I do that I will have to greatly increase the gains latter. So on this one I gave 100% and it worked from start.

I donīt know about the elevator as I did not bother to check itīs deflections since the RTH was working smoothly. But at 10% input, it wonīt make such a difference.

Erwin and fijnetcom,
Thank you for your nice comments.

Cheers,
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 12:29 PM
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Got it. Thanks

By the way, how do you like using the co-pilot with the osd? I was going to use my co-pilot but went with my AP2000i as I really like being able to calibrate in the air. I am thinking that the AP2000i should help keep it level and not lose altitude when turning in RTH.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 01:03 PM
First to go over 106K feet
Crist Rigotti's Avatar
USA, IA, North Liberty
Joined Mar 2008
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Very nice airplane, you did a great job putting it together. Is it me or is the prop on backwards?
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 01:19 PM
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Prepare to be amazed by my idiocy; I do this only so that others don't make the same mistakes.

Unfortunately, I think I might be the only one that put the ESC in the little ESC-shaped nook/compartment between the engine mount and the upper open compartment. I don't have a picture, but there's a slot that fit my Turnigy Plush 40amp perfectly. I regret it now because it can't be removed without some disassembly, and there's no airflow in there. Now I'm going to have to cut it out... carefully. Why is the nook there given these disadvantages?

While I'm 'fessing up to my embarrassing assembly decisions in the hopes that others don't repeat them, I also want to ask why has no one put the GPS chip in the little compartment right over/behind the nose? It fits there perfectly, protects the chip, and provides LOS to satellites overhead. It seems like a great place, but I assume I'm missing something because I haven't seen anyone else put it there.

Oh yeah, and one more thing for fellow newbz. Don't glue the wooden disk to the foam engine mount before you mount the engine. Initially, I thought that I'd be able to drill into it with self-tapping screws after gluing the disk in place to secure the engine, but quickly learned that I needed metal receiving nuts (wrong terminology I know) on the back to hold it in place, even with lock-tite. I had to fashion another wooden disk, mount the motor, and then glue that disk the first one (which can't be removed without an act of demolition). It looks a little ridiculous.

See, Sander? Some of us do need manuals.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 01:30 PM
Post # 20 million
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lol, you'll get there VAM.


Cheers, Kev.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 03:11 PM
Just want to fly...
LFLoTiTo's Avatar
Brazil
Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by VAMountains View Post
Prepare to be amazed by my idiocy; I do this only so that others don't make the same mistakes.
Those are not idiot but commom mistakes that you need experience to learn. Thanks for sharing and preventing others from doing the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAMountains View Post
Unfortunately, I think I might be the only one that put the ESC in the little ESC-shaped nook/compartment between the engine mount and the upper open compartment. I don't have a picture, but there's a slot that fit my Turnigy Plush 40amp perfectly. I regret it now because it can't be removed without some disassembly, and there's no airflow in there. Now I'm going to have to cut it out... carefully. Why is the nook there given these disadvantages?
When done properly, those empty spaces save weight without significantly reducing the frame strength. They also reduce mass production costs, as less material is needed.
The top compartment also has no ventilation, which might be an issue depending on your set-up. You might want to drill a couple of air in-takes or use an over-rated ESC that will dissipate the heat easier. I did both...

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAMountains View Post
While I'm 'fessing up to my embarrassing assembly decisions in the hopes that others don't repeat them, I also want to ask why has no one put the GPS chip in the little compartment right over/behind the nose? It fits there perfectly, protects the chip, and provides LOS to satellites overhead. It seems like a great place, but I assume I'm missing something because I haven't seen anyone else put it there.
GPS receivers are often affected by video TX and some cameras which usually go on the canopy. This might reduce its ability to get satelites or even to get a lock position. Putting the GPS antenna away from theses sources greatly increases its sensitivity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAMountains View Post
Oh yeah, and one more thing for fellow newbz. Don't glue the wooden disk to the foam engine mount before you mount the engine. Initially, I thought that I'd be able to drill into it with self-tapping screws after gluing the disk in place to secure the engine, but quickly learned that I needed metal receiving nuts (wrong terminology I know) on the back to hold it in place, even with lock-tite. I had to fashion another wooden disk, mount the motor, and then glue that disk the first one (which can't be removed without an act of demolition). It looks a little ridiculous.
You need a self taping screw specifically designed to hold on wood. It has deeper and more spaced threads that should hold your motor mount properly. It is best to pre-drill a 1mm hole to set the path and put a drop of CA to strenghen the wood around it before you insert the wood screw. Be carefull not to overtighten it or you will loose its ability to hold it.

TechSpy,

The OSD Pro handles heading, altitude and thrust/speed, while co-pilot stabilizes the plane. They are complementary tasks, but performed independently, meaning that the OSD doesn't interact directly with the co-pilot (yet). My plane did not need to enter in climb mode during RTH (so it did hold alt ok) but if the altitude goes below the designated minimum, the OSD will increase power and pull elevator to climb back to cruise altitude (I successfully tested this as well).

Although this plane is supposely self stable, I would not trust any auto-pilot without a stabilization system.

Cheers,
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Last edited by LFLoTiTo; Jun 16, 2010 at 03:34 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2010, 11:26 PM
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Australia, QLD, Gold Coast
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Originally Posted by Crist Rigotti View Post
Very nice airplane, you did a great job putting it together. Is it me or is the prop on backwards?
The prop is backwards because its a pusher, I think is supposed to be like that.
Am I right Crist?
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 02:40 AM
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SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
YANKALILLA , SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talajouy View Post
The prop is backwards because its a pusher, I think is supposed to be like that.
Am I right Crist?
You are right mate........how many people write before thinking or reading the thread...
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 07:43 AM
First to go over 106K feet
Crist Rigotti's Avatar
USA, IA, North Liberty
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talajouy View Post
The prop is backwards because its a pusher, I think is supposed to be like that.
Am I right Crist?
The prop being on backwards has nothing to do with a pusher. I'm was looking at the the direction of the pitch of the baldes. In the up close picture of the motor that shows the GPS and FMA sensor, the lower blade appears that the LE of the blade has the air moving towards the motor. That's whay I made that statement.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 07:46 AM
First to go over 106K feet
Crist Rigotti's Avatar
USA, IA, North Liberty
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SON OF PALEFACE View Post
You are right mate........how many people write before thinking or reading the thread...
I did read this thread and I was only trying to clarify something I thought I saw. I hope your comment wasn't directed at me because if it was you're mistaken about not reading this thread.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 09:09 AM
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Australia, QLD, Gold Coast
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Originally Posted by Crist Rigotti View Post
The prop being on backwards has nothing to do with a pusher. I'm was looking at the the direction of the pitch of the baldes. In the up close picture of the motor that shows the GPS and FMA sensor, the lower blade appears that the LE of the blade has the air moving towards the motor. That's whay I made that statement.
But still I can not understand what is backward?
the attached photo show the way I always use the props, if I use it in wrong way your advice is welcome
When using a prop for pusher must put in backward to keep the attack edge
always forward.
Any way I'm sure you read more than I do.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 09:37 AM
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United States, MI, Detroit
Joined Feb 2004
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yes that is correct. Print side should be towards the front of the plane.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 11:18 AM
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galaxiex's Avatar
Edmonton,Canada Eh
Joined Jun 2007
7,566 Posts
Prop direction, writing on the prop could be on either side depending on the maker.

NOT ALL props have the writing to the front.

Look here...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=16
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 11:46 AM
First to go over 106K feet
Crist Rigotti's Avatar
USA, IA, North Liberty
Joined Mar 2008
2,479 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talajouy View Post
But still I can not understand what is backward?
the attached photo show the way I always use the props, if I use it in wrong way your advice is welcome
When using a prop for pusher must put in backward to keep the attack edge
always forward.
Any way I'm sure you read more than I do.
The attached photo is not the one I was referring to.
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