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Old Oct 06, 2011, 03:17 PM
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I found this free ebook on tools that can be built at home, some of them interesting:

http://ebook30.com/study/hobbies-lei...-workshop.html

Interesting hand planes inside..

Bulent
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 10:35 AM
Airplane Killer
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Orange County, CA
Joined Oct 2009
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Good stuff there, Bulent!
Dave
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Canada, MB, La Salle
Joined Sep 2004
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Wet noodle

I have to remember this one for pulling servo wire through fuselages.

Jim

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Originally Posted by matwiyj View Post
In the burglar alarm industry that is called a "wet noodle". The ball-link chain is dropped into a hole and a small magnet on the end of a flexible stick is inserted into another hole and pulls the chain through. Works great!

Jarod Matwy
Winnipeg, Canada
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Old Nov 04, 2011, 07:51 AM
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I found a free e-book on 'making and mastering' wood planes, looks like interesting:

http://ebook30.com/personality/famil...od-planes.html

I have a few wood planes donated by an old friend, but those were probably not homebuilt..

Bulent
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 12:39 PM
What could possibly go wrong?
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Market Harborough
Joined Apr 2006
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Do any of the people on here have an idea about how to build a wire bender for retracts? The model I'm building has 5mm wire, which is pretty tough to bend accurately.

All ideas gratefully considered

Nick
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 10:41 PM
my karma ranover my dogma
galaxiex's Avatar
Edmonton,Canada Eh
Joined Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickchud View Post
Do any of the people on here have an idea about how to build a wire bender for retracts? The model I'm building has 5mm wire, which is pretty tough to bend accurately.

All ideas gratefully considered

Nick
I think heat is going to be involved ..... and a solid piece of round steel rod to bend around..... that will need to be fairly large diameter.... say.... 3/8" or so....
A long 3/8" bolt with a smooth shank may work.

Thats all I got....
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 06:24 AM
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If you have the tools you could build something like this - it is made by K&S.

Bulent
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 01:16 PM
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USA, MO, O'Fallon
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Micro-Mark had some wire bending jigs.

I have: http://www.micromark.com/Economical-...-Jig,7070.html

I have used it with some larger wire, but never 5mm!

This: http://www.micromark.com/Universal-Bender,8229.html

Might be more like what you need.
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 01:17 PM
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Money can buy...

Micro-Mark had some wire bending jigs.

I have: http://www.micromark.com/Economical-...-Jig,7070.html

I have used it with some larger wire, but never 5mm!

This: http://www.micromark.com/Universal-Bender,8229.html

Might be more like what you need.

If you are not interested in spending money, find a friend with big muscles and a vise.
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 01:41 PM
More Motors, More Fun... :-)
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Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 2008
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The K&S Bender is a very nice deluxe version of a now discontinued Micro-Mark bender I have. It works well for 1/8" to 1/4" (3mm-6.5mm) bends, but you will have a radius, not a square bend.

The expensive Micro-mark universal bender is notable. Hopefully an owner will state if it can make sharp square bends.

Getting a square bend with music wire is very difficult, as the wire is quite brittle, and will just stretch, fatigue, and snap. Applying heat is helpful, but too much heat will weaken the wire as well. Landing gear wire isn't much easier, and often fatigues before music wire.

Many use a vise and hammer to get a sharper squared bend. Make sure you have extra wire with that technique, as gouging, and breakage is common with the larger wire sizes.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 05:22 AM
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Middle River MD
Joined Dec 2000
520 Posts
Wire that thick to get a shap bend will have to be annealed bent and retempered after bending. Do a search you can do it in your kitchen with a little practice.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 12:39 PM
More Motors, More Fun... :-)
nioa's Avatar
Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 2008
700 Posts
Nick,

Alternatively, there are the axles like the Adjustable Axles by E-flite (EFLG404), for example, or the Dubro E/Z Adjust Axle (No. 614, No. 615). I know that the Dubro's are for 4mm wire, the E-Flites are not specified, but may be 5mm.



That takes care of the bending issue, which is why these "set screw" axles are becoming more available, especially with the popularity of larger models. The only caution, is that the "flats" have to be precisely cut into the wire. If the cut is tilted even slightly, it will substantially reduce the ability of the axle to stay on the strut, as the set screw will find a way to loosen because of the "wedge" created by an uneven cut. In the case of the E-flite axles, where the flats are on both sides of the axle, precision cut is very important.

Nick
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Old Nov 21, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Tool Caddy

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Originally Posted by Ranger13 View Post
... My [building] board kept being cluttered with tools. ... My solution? A homemade tool caddy. (Edit) FWIW, the caddy is just four panels of 1/2 in Styrofoam (some really nice close-grained stuff from Dow) hot-glued together with a base glued inside the bottom and another panel glued inside the top, but pushed down several inches to allow items to be placed on top. All of this is hot-glued to a 12-inch turntable I purchased at Lowe's.
I was having the same issues with tool placement/storage until needed. What I did was purchase an aluminum cake pan from Wally (walmart) and pipe from a golf store. The golf store had some very thin walled pipe in 4' long sections for the old style of golf bags, which are used to hold the golf clubs. Later I found more thin walled pipe in the plumbing section of the warehouse home improvement stores, and a smaller size in the cake decorating section of Wally's. The different diameters of the pipe came in handy when I wanted to make a tube holder for various tools. If I needed a tube for Xacto knife, I would cut it around 1"-1 1/2" short so the safe end of the knife protruded above the storage tube. Use the larger tubes for sissors, brushes, and etc. Once I had a collection of pipes cut, I wrapped the bundle with rubber bands and played around with the arrangement for the best placement. The longer tubes in the center of the bundle, and the shorter tubes on the outside. I used hot glue on the bottoms of the tubes and quickly placed the bundle on the aluminum cake pan's bottom.

The arrangement left a bit of space between the cake pan walls (around 2 1/2" tall) and the centered bundle of pipes. Currently I have odds and ends stored in the space, including pins of various types. At some point I want to get some sheet plastic and glue dividers in place to help hold the smaller stuff within a section. Of course one could do the same thing by sticking the plastic tubing into some 1/2" foam board for a less expensive option rather than an aluminum cake pan. The tube can be used to "drill" out the mounting hole and later hot glued in place. You can removed the foam plug, but in some cases you will want to keep the foam plug in the bottom of the tube. The foam will help keep the Xacto blade tip sharp and protect the ends of sissors. I am sure other ideas will come up where the foam plug/disc is best kept in the bottom of the tube. If you find you need a thin walled tube of a diameter not easy to find, you can roll one from an aluminum soda or beer can. You do need to cut off the top and bottom of the thin walled can first. That will render a very fine sheet of thin alumium for all sorts of projects useful in RC other than to roll into a tube. I tend to use dowel rod and PVC pipe as the roller and to manage the diameter of the pipe desired. There are some epoxy suited to glue the overlap of the aluminum tube sheet, and tape works pretty good also.
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Old Nov 21, 2011, 01:30 PM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Checking Washout When the Wing Bottom isn't ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by toni.b-r View Post
Ever need to check the washout on a long wing with dihedral? ... my way is to rubber band a dowel to the bottom of the end of each wing, with excess poking out the back. Then you can eyeball the two dowels and see straight off if the angle of the wing ends is the same. It works well on flat-bottomed wings, but as long as there is a portion of flat somewhere on the bottom of the wing to set the dowels against, it should work. ... I now know the two wings have the same washout.
Instead of using wood dowel, which can be less than straight, I use carbon fiber rod. The carbon fiber rod won't warp easily in the presents of moisture or comfortable heat ranges. Instead of using the expensive carbon fiber rods available from hobby suppliers that will often require a postage charge, I go to Wally World (walmart) or another warehouse store and buy a large diameter fishing pole. The fishing poles I am looking for are the ones that are tubes that store inside the larger tube and each tube is tapered. End caps screw on to keep the smaller tubes inside and each section of tubing is as stiff as you might ever want, yet flexible enough to bend with enough weight. Keep in mind the smaller tube to be used as the end of the fishing rod is the one that is designed to bend the most. The fishing rods are sold in the stored (shorter) arrangement, but the best part is the low price. For less than $10 you can buy a fishing pole with three tapered tubes that extend to make a 10' long pole. You can use each section seporately if desired for all sort of things, or any combination of the three parts.

Fully extended, it makes a great recovery pole for reaching up into branches of trees or bushes to get your RC model back. You can also cut off the fishing pole line guides for easy transport and attach your own parts for other uses. If you use one or two sections, you have a really great wing spar, or spars if you buy two poles. You can also use carbon fiber arrow shafts for wing spars, and Wally carries those also for $3-$8 dollars each. All you have to do is trim off the feathers and unscrew the arrow head, if one is present. The aluminum arrow shafts do come in a size that fits over, or into the carbon fiber arrow tubes, which is a great way to make a spar joiner. One aluminum arrow shaft is enough tubing for at least four joiners. Since the fishing rod parts are longer, I would use them to make the washout tool for a wing rather than the shorter arrow shafts. Did I mention the Pan fishing rod is extremely light weight and comes in a four section choice, which is longer, as in 12' fully extended? Buy the fishing rods in pairs so you will have two matching parts for wing spars, guide tubes, hole reinforcing, and the like. You can also use a section of arrow shaft or fish pole as an alignment key if you are making a fuselage, or a wing in 1/2"-3/4" thick foam sections/parts. I am sure others will come up with additional ideas using either tubing type.

EDIT - OOps, I forgot to mention how to use the long fishing rod section on a wing that doesn't have a flat bottom. You get some 1/2" thick foam board, or thicker, and cut out an alignment form. The form is nothing more than two pieces of foam cut into a rectangle this is around 1/2"-1" longer then the wing is wide at the point where you will mount it. The rectangle will be around 2"-4" wide. The top edge of the alignment tool is cut, carved, and sanded to fit the shape of the wing were it will be mounted to check the washout. Before you glue the two parts together, shape the inside of the foam parts to accept the rest of the tool, which is the long fishing rod tube. You want a very tight fit and decide if the tube section of the fishing pole is going to be glued between the foam parts, or made to be a temporary fit and later stored as two parts when not in use. I tend to glue stuff together and hang it up somewhere out of the way until needed again. I also use the long, wood coffee stir sticks often available in craft supply stores, one each side of the foam block, so I can use rubber bands to hold the tool in place on the wing. You can also shape the foam top side a little to make a channel (or hole) and use small diameter wood dowel glued in place for the same purpose. Works in the same way dowel is normally used so rubber bands will hold the wing in the wing saddle of a fuselage. You will want to make two wing washout tools as a matching pair and use one on each end of the wing. The rest is either a long ruler used to check for the same washout, or an eyeballing of the fishing rod extentions to ensure there is no different.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 11:43 PM
Just a test glide...
mkeveney's Avatar
Oakland, CA
Joined Aug 2005
341 Posts
Using a Master Airscrew balsa stripper

Here's one I discovered some time ago; maybe new to some of you.

I've had bad luck with my 'Master Airscrew' balsa stripper when cutting anything but the lightest stock. The blade wanders or slips in it's clamp, giving a terribly inaccurate cut.

Instead use a 'base' piece of 1/8" ply. The blade should be extended enough to poke into the ply a bit. This keeps it from wandering. Then grip the stripper and the ply in one hand, and feed the stock through with your other.

For really tough stock, clamp the stripper to the ply piece as shown. I have a pair of 1" C-clamps that are perfect for the job.

With this setup I can accurately strip stock up to 1/4" thick, even from very dense balsa.

-Matt
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