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Old Oct 27, 2012, 06:52 PM
Dixie Normious
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New KK2.0

Well!! Been putting my new KK 2.0 though its paces the last while heres some vidoes.
This is the best KK board to date..The user face is very nice indeed. Easy to use and now comes with KK 1.2 firmware. So no
need to flash it.
Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Also Subscribe to my Youtube channel to get updates
Q450 with KK2.0 (5 min 34 sec)


UnEdited Acro Quadcopter (6 min 29 sec)


QuadSuckers (5 min 16 sec)


playing in da park (8 min 13 sec)


KK 2.0 (4 min 37 sec)


Link to discussion
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post23118971
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 07:30 PM
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Thanks, I've just received my kk2 board and have to finish my quad, may have some questions then.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 03:27 AM
Dixie Normious
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Originally Posted by tobermei View Post
Thanks, I've just received my kk2 board and have to finish my quad, may have some questions then.
Cool you are going to like it. If you already haven't have a look at the thread i posted. theres some great videos posted on the first page...thats what helped me

cheers
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Great videos
I run an original KK blackboard in all my quads. When I do some upgrades I will be changing to 2.0 KK.
If anyone tells you cant FPV on a KK check out my videos that's untrue its just going to take allot more skill
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 01:08 AM
Dixie Normious
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True , i know a lot of guys running FPV on this board or other KK's. The 2.0 is freaking awesome. Just having the set up screen to be able to change settings on the fly/at the field is awesome.

It took me all off 1min to up the stick scaling to 90 on the pitch and roll, then add 40% expo in my TX to soften it up..next thing your doing flips...;0)

I was thinking of trying fpv as well on her soon ;0<)

cheers
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Hi Mike, thanks for the invite (from my quad thread on another forum). Nice videos you have up here - what are you using for a camera?

Our weather forecast here is for a high of -5 but sunny on Saturday so I plan to get the quad out for some more flights. i don't think I will put my FPV stuff on it. I have an older seaplane with an absolutely huge interior space and a large clear canopy that I am going to take down from the ceiling and get ready for flight. I ordered my DOSD and if it gets here by this Friday I'm buying lottery tickets. Otherwise I will fly the plane this weekend LOS and set it up for FPV next week.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 01:51 PM
Dixie Normious
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Cool yea weather isn't the greatest either out here either. I to am getting the dosd the DL UHF soon. But I'm putting it in my radian pro for now and I'm my wing in the spring

The camera I'm using is the gopro 960
Laid in some foam and held with rubber bands
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 12:17 PM
Dixie Normious
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Just a couple of videos showing how i wired up my LEDS

Installing LEDS to QuadCopter Part 1 (13 min 39 sec)


Installing LEDS to Quadcopter Part 2 (8 min 7 sec)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 12:22 AM
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Hey thanks for the invite. I could use a little help. I'm a total noob for the mulitrotor so just trying to catch up.

My first question regarding the LED video. I too ordered a couple of the light's from HK they have the red JST connectors. Based on your video all I have to do is just solder it to the power distribution board?

my second and more annoying problem is I cant seem to get my quad to stay level it always wants to go towards me after take off. I have to fly it on the sticks all of the time. It does not just sit and hover. I'm going to go and find a level place and see if I can recalibrate.

Looks like you got the RCTimer looking from the purple motors. I wound up getting the RCTimer DJI450 Wheel Clone with the 2830 1000kv motors. and SimmonK 30A ESC's I could never calibrate my ESC's based on what the instructions state. I never hear the two beeps. Anyway so far so good. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:52 AM
Dixie Normious
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My first question regarding the LED video. I too ordered a couple of the light's from HK they have the red JST connectors. Based on your video all I have to do is just solder it to the power distribution board?

Cool post a link if you can, all the LEDS i have got form HK never had any plugs on them. Yep thats all you need to do , just make sure you keep the polarity correct So you don't really need connectors as you can just solder directly to PDB. Then when you plug your batt in the lights well come on
If you use that led spitter like i did then you well need the jst's.

You well also noticed the Leds well get dimmer as you batt gets near LVC and well pulse when you give throttle. Great early warning system


my second and more annoying problem is I cant seem to get my quad to stay level it always wants to go towards me after take off. I have to fly it on the sticks all of the time. It does not just sit and hover. I'm going to go and find a level place and see if I can recalibrate.

yea i would try recalibrating the sensors on something as level as you can find. use a bubble level if you want. Then go into your settings and make your your settings are all Zero, if not adjust in your sub trim till they are.

If it still wants to come back towards give it 5 clicks up forward trim while on the ground and try again. 90% of the time it well need to be trimmed out even though you have set every thing to zero in the menus.


Looks like you got the RCTimer looking from the purple motors. I wound up getting the RCTimer DJI450 Wheel Clone with the 2830 1000kv motors. and SimmonK 30A ESC's I could never calibrate my ESC's based on what the instructions state. I never hear the two beeps. Anyway so far so good. Thanks in advance for any help.

Yes thats the same motors as i use and the same frame, but only i got the one from HK. does yours have the PDB built into the bottom? i noticed RCtimer has them now as well. great frame
First i had the non PDB version...crashed...so then i decided to get the PDB one and had 2 arms left over form the old one. I also ordered some OME DJI arms...but the treaded inserts are smaller then the HK/RCtimer screws. DJI's arm screws are 2.5mm and HK/RCtimes are 3mm.
So you are better off just ordering the cheaper frame for the replacement arms...im not going to tell you how much i paid for the 4dji arms only to realize i had to order some dji stock screws... put it this way it was more to get the screws then the cost of the entire cheaper from from HK
lol so yea just get the 11 dollar frame from either HK or RCT for the replacement arms..there the same...the dji's well break just as easy in a crash as the cheaper ones and thats proven...

ok ok sorry back on track!
i have never used those simomk esc's or any Simonk's for that matter. I use the RCtimer 20A which are the same the turnigy plush/hobbywing brand...a awesome esc imho

What radio are you using? If you have not already check your end points on your Throttle!
make sure is -100 to +100 Also check your throttle sub trims. make sure they are 0.
another thing i want you to check is put your main throttle trim on your radio all the ways down.
you can try them one by one with a receiver. they dont have to be done all together. do one at a time if it works.
All your wanting is all 4 to be calibrated with your radios end points.

If that fails and you are using a spectrum reset you model and start new and rebind... someone i was helping before had to do this.

But how drastic are your motors not spooling up together? Its not to bad if they are off like a split second.
you seem to have it hovering enough that its coming back to you? If your throttle is around 25- 40%( (almost hovering) and you still see a motor not spinning then i would be concerned... i would concentrate on getting it hovering which i think you are close to...

Do you by any chance have a ESC programming card? im not even sure if there is one one for those esc? if so make sure they are set like this

Programming ESC's for a MutiRotor Aircraft!! (7 min 42 sec)
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Cool thanks for all the responses. Let me see if I can respond to your questions. I got out the bubble level last night and found a spot that's pretty level and re-calibrated the sensors. It still wanted to drive back and to the right.

I did get the V2 board which has the power distribution board. I'm pretty decent with a soldering iron so I didn't mind soldering all the connections. Speaking of that I soldered the piezo buzzer right to the power distribution board so now i can see the voltage of my battery. The buzzer is so annoying though the frequency of the buzzing becomes more frequent the closer you get to LVC.

I noticed the 2200 3s battery's how many minutes are you getting. Wondering what's the largest capacity battery you could fit under there with out taking to much of a hit on performance. Or with out it being to heavy. I was thinking of getting like a 4000-5000c 3s 30c

I'm using a Spectrum DX7 radio and RX500 receiver. Not sure what you mean but setting the throttle trim. I'll try and look at my radio and set it 0 and 100 although I think that's probably what's it's already set at. I also put the throttle trim from the middle to all the way down. (little knob right of the stick)

I tried trimming (roll)aileron and pitch(elevator) I didn't really notice an effect. I'll have to try it again. I would assume when it's trimmed out it should just stay in one place. Although I haven't "offically" been able to program the ESC's like the manual says with the full throttle 2 beeps etc... The motors do speed up at different times they don't all go on at the same time but at 30-40% throttle I can get it to hover in my living room just fine accept for the drift. So I have my hands on the sticks all the time.

I have a Turnigy Plush ESC programing card as I typically use the PLUSH ESC for my planes but I dont have one with the SimmonK flashed 30A ESC.

I found a DJI Board shipped for $32 from allerc.com so I picked one up right before I found the complete clone kit from RCTIMER. The only reason I bougtht the RCTImer version is they had 30A ESC as opposed to 20A and they had bigger motor's 2830's 1000kv (250w) as opposed to the stock 2212's (112watt) motors. So I would assume it should have considerably more payload capacity as well as a bit more get up and go. Good to know about the screws. So for now I have the RCTimer frame setting in plastic. I have both sets of screws so I will see if I can use them as spares as I have both sets of screws. I wish HK USA warehouse would start carrying that frame. I really like how neat you made your setup. Looks great.

What MODE do you have yours setup in? I'm using Quad X mode. I also successfully flashed to 1.4 Firm Ware.

One thing that I was thinking about last night is if I needed to modify the gains for pitch(elevator) and roll(ail) in the PI Mixer. I haven't really started messing with the PI mixer or fine tuning until I can get this stable in a hover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
My first question regarding the LED video. I too ordered a couple of the light's from HK they have the red JST connectors. Based on your video all I have to do is just solder it to the power distribution board?

Cool post a link if you can, all the LEDS i have got form HK never had any plugs on them. Yep thats all you need to do , just make sure you keep the polarity correct So you don't really need connectors as you can just solder directly to PDB. Then when you plug your batt in the lights well come on
If you use that led spitter like i did then you well need the jst's.

You well also noticed the Leds well get dimmer as you batt gets near LVC and well pulse when you give throttle. Great early warning system


my second and more annoying problem is I cant seem to get my quad to stay level it always wants to go towards me after take off. I have to fly it on the sticks all of the time. It does not just sit and hover. I'm going to go and find a level place and see if I can recalibrate.

yea i would try recalibrating the sensors on something as level as you can find. use a bubble level if you want. Then go into your settings and make your your settings are all Zero, if not adjust in your sub trim till they are.

If it still wants to come back towards give it 5 clicks up forward trim while on the ground and try again. 90% of the time it well need to be trimmed out even though you have set every thing to zero in the menus.


Looks like you got the RCTimer looking from the purple motors. I wound up getting the RCTimer DJI450 Wheel Clone with the 2830 1000kv motors. and SimmonK 30A ESC's I could never calibrate my ESC's based on what the instructions state. I never hear the two beeps. Anyway so far so good. Thanks in advance for any help.

Yes thats the same motors as i use and the same frame, but only i got the one from HK. does yours have the PDB built into the bottom? i noticed RCtimer has them now as well. great frame
First i had the non PDB version...crashed...so then i decided to get the PDB one and had 2 arms left over form the old one. I also ordered some OME DJI arms...but the treaded inserts are smaller then the HK/RCtimer screws. DJI's arm screws are 2.5mm and HK/RCtimes are 3mm.
So you are better off just ordering the cheaper frame for the replacement arms...im not going to tell you how much i paid for the 4dji arms only to realize i had to order some dji stock screws... put it this way it was more to get the screws then the cost of the entire cheaper from from HK
lol so yea just get the 11 dollar frame from either HK or RCT for the replacement arms..there the same...the dji's well break just as easy in a crash as the cheaper ones and thats proven...

ok ok sorry back on track!
i have never used those simomk esc's or any Simonk's for that matter. I use the RCtimer 20A which are the same the turnigy plush/hobbywing brand...a awesome esc imho

What radio are you using? If you have not already check your end points on your Throttle!
make sure is -100 to +100 Also check your throttle sub trims. make sure they are 0.
another thing i want you to check is put your main throttle trim on your radio all the ways down.
you can try them one by one with a receiver. they dont have to be done all together. do one at a time if it works.
All your wanting is all 4 to be calibrated with your radios end points.

If that fails and you are using a spectrum reset you model and start new and rebind... someone i was helping before had to do this.

But how drastic are your motors not spooling up together? Its not to bad if they are off like a split second.
you seem to have it hovering enough that its coming back to you? If your throttle is around 25- 40%( (almost hovering) and you still see a motor not spinning then i would be concerned... i would concentrate on getting it hovering which i think you are close to...

Do you by any chance have a ESC programming card? im not even sure if there is one one for those esc? if so make sure they are set like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv00LHc1zDI
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 11:28 AM
Dixie Normious
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Originally Posted by Fidy$Trainer View Post
Cool thanks for all the responses. Let me see if I can respond to your questions. I got out the bubble level last night and found a spot that's pretty level and re-calibrated the sensors. It still wanted to drive back and to the right.

I did get the V2 board which has the power distribution board. I'm pretty decent with a soldering iron so I didn't mind soldering all the connections. Speaking of that I soldered the piezo buzzer right to the power distribution board so now i can see the voltage of my battery. The buzzer is so annoying though the frequency of the buzzing becomes more frequent the closer you get to LVC.

Yea i never bothered with that buzzer i just use one of these andplug into the ballance leadof the battery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3x-Lipo-Batt...item3f0f9bfeff

I noticed the 2200 3s battery's how many minutes are you getting. Wondering what's the largest capacity battery you could fit under there with out taking to much of a hit on performance. Or with out it being to heavy. I was thinking of getting like a 4000-5000c 3s 30c

With the 2200mah im getting 8mins of hard acro flying a freind of mine uses a 3S3000mah but i would not go much bigger then that

I'm using a Spectrum DX7 radio and RX500 receiver. Not sure what you mean but setting the throttle trim. I'll try and look at my radio and set it 0 and 100 although I think that's probably what's it's already set at. I also put the throttle trim from the middle to all the way down. (little knob right of the stick)

What i meant with trim at 0 was your main trim on the front of the radio. in your radio when your throttle is low it should be -100 and when full throttle it should be +100

I tried trimming (roll)aileron and pitch(elevator) I didn't really notice an effect. I'll have to try it again. I would assume when it's trimmed out it should just stay in one place. Although I haven't "offically" been able to program the ESC's like the manual says with the full throttle 2 beeps etc... The motors do speed up at different times they don't all go on at the same time but at 30-40% throttle I can get it to hover in my living room just fine accept for the drift. So I have my hands on the sticks all the time.

Ok i have a question. When your trying to hover are you in auto level or normal flight mode?

I have a Turnigy Plush ESC programing card as I typically use the PLUSH ESC for my planes but I dont have one with the SimmonK flashed 30A ESC.

I found a DJI Board shipped for $32 from allerc.com so I picked one up right before I found the complete clone kit from RCTIMER. The only reason I bougtht the RCTImer version is they had 30A ESC as opposed to 20A and they had bigger motor's 2830's 1000kv (250w) as opposed to the stock 2212's (112watt) motors. So I would assume it should have considerably more payload capacity as well as a bit more get up and go. Good to know about the screws. So for now I have the RCTimer frame setting in plastic. I have both sets of screws so I will see if I can use them as spares as I have both sets of screws. I wish HK USA warehouse would start carrying that frame. I really like how neat you made your setup. Looks great.

cool the 20A well handle those motors. they do with mine i use either 10'' props or 8'' ones.
i like the 8's on my smaller 450 frame.


What MODE do you have yours setup in? I'm using Quad X mode. I also successfully flashed to 1.4 Firm Ware.
Im X mode still running 1.2. For my flying style the way they have the AL tweaked I'm querious if it well lock up after flying around hard doing flips etc...i had Probs with the FW "ACCmod" that i could take off in AL fine..turn it off...fly around...come back and hover in front of me...turn on AL gain and it would lock into weird angles and would be a diff angle every time so it was very un predicable. i think shane fixed it with another version but it left a bad taste in my mouth.

So i think 1.2 is the most stable version out there. im not flashing it as i love 1.2

Heres a video of what im talking about with it locking up. read the comments to under stand why it locks up
with the newer one he put out he up'd the numbers so the angle and yaw limits increased. But im afraid if im doing flips etc its a giving it well lock up. not saying it well..its just im not beta testing it lol i crashed last time costing my those arms and being quadless over a month...


One thing that I was thinking about last night is if I needed to modify the gains for pitch(elevator) and roll(ail) in the PI Mixer. I haven't really started messing with the PI mixer or fine tuning until I can get this stable in a hover.
KK2 AutoLevel testing (7 min 28 sec)


when you say mixer, dooyu mean the actual mixer menu? or the P and I editor?

don't mess with the settings in the "mixer menu" if you have, i would factory reset your KK2.0

concentrate on getting her hovering decent before you worry about tuning it. If you can set up a camera and record your attempts at hovering

once you get her hovering decent then i well go over the tuning proscess
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:13 AM
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I have the auto level set and it just wants to pitch backwards. I've been messing with it for a full day. Even reverted back to 1.2. It levels out a lot better in 1.4. I really don't trust my self with out the auto level. But it just doesnt seem to work well at all.

Not messing with the actual mixer just the PI editor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM0B6WIQTOU

when you say mixer, dooyu mean the actual mixer menu? or the P and I editor?

don't mess with the settings in the "mixer menu" if you have, i would factory reset your KK2.0

concentrate on getting her hovering decent before you worry about tuning it. If you can set up a camera and record your attempts at hovering

once you get her hovering decent then i well go over the tuning proscess
Should I get it to hover with out level mode ON or OFF or does it matter?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:59 AM
Dixie Normious
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Ohh ok!!

Well if you are in auto level, trim it out with a positive number on the Pitch. A positive number well make it trim forward and a Negative number well trim it backwards. So oyu want to trim it forwards.
As for if it were banking left and you wanted to trim it right..you would have to adjust the Roll Number Positive. Its like a integer.

Pitch trim forward is Pos number
Pitch trim aft is Neg number

Roll trim right is pos number
Roll trim left is neg number

You could try it with AL off. Just slowly bring your throttle up to see if it wants to do anything drastic...but id say you well fine. Just get into a small hover and quickly notice what way it wants to drift and how drastic is is. Pretty much every quad/tri is going to drift... period...

See what way it wants to go.. plop her back to the ground and trim it out via your main trims on your radio..which is what again?

Back to the trim function of the AL. Mine wanted to go forward and left...say in the direction of 10 o'clock. So i needed to trim it back and right. At the time i did not know , some one on the KK 2.0 thread said it takes quite a lot of points to start to see any trim action. So i ended at 30 neg on pitch to come back and 30 pos on the roll as i wanted to trim right and i still didn't see any trim.he was saying it takes at least 50. But the last few times out i wanted to fly as the weather has been the craps. So i never even thought about trying to trim it out...;

So i would start with +30 pitch in the AL menu and test...If no improvement, try adjusting it in increments of 10 etc...

[EDIT]
Did you make sure you KK is level and re calibrate the sensors and make sure every thing is zero'd out seeing you re-flashed it?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:38 AM
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Somoene else posted that they thought that the foam I have the FC in might be causing an issue with leveling and sensing. So tomorrow I'm going to take the Foam out and raise it up on a small platform and try to make sure it's level to the board. But yes I have all the trims on the radio 0'ed out and when doing the calibration I tried very hard to make sure both pitch and roll with both zero'd out. Cool feature on FW 1.4 it shows if it's level or not. Then I recalibrated. Here are a couple of pics. I'll have to play with the Self Levling features again and see if I can trim it. Thanks again for the help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
Ohh ok!!

Well if you are in auto level, trim it out with a positive number on the Pitch. A positive number well make it trim forward and a Negative number well trim it backwards. So oyu want to trim it forwards.
As for if it were banking left and you wanted to trim it right..you would have to adjust the Roll Number Positive. Its like a integer.

Pitch trim forward is Pos number
Pitch trim aft is Neg number

Roll trim right is pos number
Roll trim left is neg number

You could try it with AL off. Just slowly bring your throttle up to see if it wants to do anything drastic...but id say you well fine. Just get into a small hover and quickly notice what way it wants to drift and how drastic is is. Pretty much every quad/tri is going to drift... period...

See what way it wants to go.. plop her back to the ground and trim it out via your main trims on your radio..which is what again?

Back to the trim function of the AL. Mine wanted to go forward and left...say in the direction of 10 o'clock. So i needed to trim it back and right. At the time i did not know , some one on the KK 2.0 thread said it takes quite a lot of points to start to see any trim action. So i ended at 30 neg on pitch to come back and 30 pos on the roll as i wanted to trim right and i still didn't see any trim.he was saying it takes at least 50. But the last few times out i wanted to fly as the weather has been the craps. So i never even thought about trying to trim it out...;

So i would start with +30 pitch in the AL menu and test...If no improvement, try adjusting it in increments of 10 etc...

[EDIT]
Did you make sure you KK is level and re calibrate the sensors and make sure every thing is zero'd out seeing you re-flashed it?
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