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2. Did you cut exactely 45 deg or did you do the old LAR (looks About Right) method ? |
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Bungee launcher
This weekend it was also maiden for my new bungee launcher. It was really a no-brainer and took me about an hour to build.
Materials used: 5 meters of 25mm PVC tube 6 knee bends 4 T couplers 4 32mm saddles 2 pieces of plank 2 keychain rings Some screws and 1/4 stick of hot glue Hobbyking 8mm bungee cord http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store...dProduct=10609 I cut the 5meter tube into: 2* 125 cm (length) 2* 55 cm (front legs) 3* 30 cm (width) 2* 25 cm (back legs) Cut off the top of the long tube on two of the Ts and attach them to the top of the front legs. This way you can click the long tubes into place and there's no edge that can damage your plane as it slides over it. The HK bungee has a lot of power but you need to fold it once making it double. As you can see from the lanuch in the last video I have made a beam between the front legs. This adds to stability of course but it also allows me to use a longer cord to hook up the plane than the cord which goes to the trigger. By doing this the keychain ring attached to the trigger cord will not go further back than the back of the nosecone during launch and it will be out of the way if I should throttle up too early. The bungee launch is really very easy, and I recommend it! BTW: I have a 30% positive elevator input "launch mode" activated from launch until an altitude of 10 meters is reached. |
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Wing tip spoilers - Hoerner wing
Here's a modification I did to the Sleipner:
I shaved (sanded) off the bottom of the last 1/2 inch making an angle of about 45 degrees or so upward (Mopar: this is LAR - no doubt ). The reason for this is simple and you can read about it here: (scroll down to the "Wing Tip"-section) http://www.zenithair.com/stolch801/design/design.htmland here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...CHEwingtip.php It might be even better if I had angled the wing tip all the way through and I might try that later. It would be really cool if someone with a glassed Stryker could do this conversion and tell me if there was any difference before and after
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No. I have found I have to move the CG a little bit further towards the nose to get it in balance with the Mighty MEGA, and since Sleipner is perfect on the dimples with the 16/25 and a 4S4000 I chose to build another. It will be ready in a week or so as I plan to lay the finishing layer of glassing over the nose and battery compartment tonight. Just elevons, painting and mounting left after that. This one will be very similar to Sleipner with the same CF layout, but it will have some smaller veriticals and it will not be a top hinge job fastening the elevons.
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