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Old Sep 02, 2015, 03:25 PM
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E-flite Carbon-Z T-28 Modification Thread

This first post will be kept up to date with mods and tips for the new Carbon-Z T-28. Feel free to add your tips/mods for the plane that you as a owner have done to your own plane to add to its reliability or aesthetics.

ELECTRICAL
1. With some concerns from others about one of the retracts drawing too many amps or the ESC w/ built in BEC not being sufficient some have opted to do a Stand alone BEC, or and separate Rx battery pack. For myself I have opted to go with a tried and true method, the Castle Creations PRO BEC.

2. From Silent-AV8R ~ See Post #49 I am actually running dual RX packs. The EMCOTEC is a solid state device made by a German company. I've been using them for year in everything from small electrics to 150cc giant scale aerobatic planes. They are a great device: http://www.espritmodel.com/emcotec-v...ic-switch.aspx


MECHANICAL

1. I had a great huge fear of losing this plane due to the clevisis being nothing but junk. Doing a small test, the plastic pin in my clevis snapped. I replaced mine along with 3 other members clevises that included the ailerons, flaps, elevator and rudder. We are using the 2-56 pushrods and clevises from Du-Bro. The clevises are spring steel and are working very well!

2. The flap on the right wing has a binding issue where the Z bend and the servo cover meet when the flap is fully deployed. You can make a small notch to avoid any future headaches. OR simply remove your pushrod and install from the other side of the servo horn.

3. The ailerons are hinged, the elevator is hinged, but the flaps are not hinged. I went ahead and added hinges before I lost a flap in flight like one individual already has.

AESTHETICS

1. Wire mesh guard - This will clean up your battery compartment and make everything neat and tidy. I'm using 10mm. When you cut the ends of the wire mesh they like to start to unravel. What I do to prevent this is take my torch and heat up the side of a old steak or butter knife and singe the end of the wire mesh so that it starts to melt. Make sure its at the diameter you (in other words don't make the mesh too skinny or you won't be able to get the servo wires and plugs through) want and then melt it. This will keep it from unraveling. Here is where I got mine. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...esh_Guard.html

2. Lighting - I'm installing LED Nav lights on this. So far I'm done with the wing. Now time to tackle the fuselage.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 04:00 PM
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I've ordered the Dubro metal clevises with 2-56 rods. Looking at sound systems now.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 04:35 PM
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My update to my T-28 was to replace all the control rods and plastic clevises with 2-56 rods and metal clevises.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 04:54 PM
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Thanks man..
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 05:29 PM
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For now I replaced the elevator pushrod and clevis. The rest I will watch and replace as needed if I feel they are causing any issues.

I also a using a completely separate power system for the radio. I do not want to lose control of the plane if the motor, ESC/BEC, or main power battery fail. I'm using a 2,550 2S lipo running through an EMCOTEC regulated magnetic switch which drops the voltage to a steady 5.5 volts.

I'm using the larger lipo mostly because that is the size I had and it will give plenty of capacity in case the retracts decide to go rogue!!

BTW - I use the separate radio power setup on all my electrics Gives me peace of mind. I think of it like a power plane. I would not want to lose the radio if I ran out of fuel, lost a glow plug, or had some other power system failure.

What I'm interested in next are 3-blade props!!
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 06:03 PM
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Skyline thx again for doing the clevis and pushrods. They fit perfectly and I feel much safer pulling gs now I also did a separate bec(ztw) and the mod to the servo cover. I have no issues with the sound of the prop as others seem to have. I actually love the sound of the prop but am waiting to hear from others on either 3 blades or 15/10 apc
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent-AV8R View Post
For now I replaced the elevator pushrod and clevis. The rest I will watch and replace as needed if I feel they are causing any issues.

I also a using a completely separate power system for the radio. I do not want to lose control of the plane if the motor, ESC/BEC, or main power battery fail. I'm using a 2,550 2S lipo running through an EMCOTEC regulated magnetic switch which drops the voltage to a steady 5.5 volts.

I'm using the larger lipo mostly because that is the size I had and it will give plenty of capacity in case the retracts decide to go rogue!!

BTW - I use the separate radio power setup on all my electrics Gives me peace of mind. I think of it like a power plane. I would not want to lose the radio if I ran out of fuel, lost a glow plug, or had some other power system failure.

What I'm interested in next are 3-blade props!!
Lets hope you don't have a failure with your RX battery or EMCOTEC. As long as I fly with my timer, I'll be okay with my separate BEC. But your idea is just as good as the BEC and if you have a picture of it, lets get it up on the first post.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzmanb View Post
Skyline thx again for doing the clevis and pushrods. They fit perfectly and I feel much safer pulling gs now I also did a separate bec(ztw) and the mod to the servo cover. I have no issues with the sound of the prop as others seem to have. I actually love the sound of the prop but am waiting to hear from others on either 3 blades or 15/10 apc
Your welcome my friend. I'd love to get my hand on a 3 blader. I thought I found one at my LHS but it was a pusher. LOL.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
Lets hope you don't have a failure with your RX battery or EMCOTEC. As long as I fly with my timer, I'll be okay with my separate BEC. But your idea is just as good as the BEC and if you have a picture of it, lets get it up on the first post.
I am actually running dual RX packs. The EMCOTEC is a solid state device made by a German company. I've been using them for year in everything from small electrics to 150cc giant scale aerobatic planes.

They are a great device:

http://www.espritmodel.com/emcotec-v...ic-switch.aspx


I am always wary about the BEC in anything larger than a small 3S type plane. I have had more than one fail. Trust me, it ain't pretty. Separating the motor power and radio power has never failed me yet, so I'm sticking with what I have proven to work for me.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 09:39 PM
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3. The flap on the right wing has a binding issue where the Z bend and the servo cover meet when the flap is fully deployed. You can make a small notch to avoid any future headaches
If you remove the link to replace the clevis, and put the z-bend through from the other side of the servo arm, it will no longer bind and you won't need to put a notch in the servo cover.

This is what I did with mine (well, reversed the z-bend. I have yet to replace the clevises).
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 09:42 PM
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Cool! That's seems to be a really simple fix. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 09:57 PM
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Silent, can we see a quick picture of your dual set up with the 550mAh batteries. So, are you running the regulator into 2 open channels on the receiver and how does that isolate the power coming from the ESC to the receiver? Just curios.

Jason
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 10:13 PM
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There's only one way to isolate the power going to the retracts, the center power wire of the 3-wire servo connector has to be interrupted so that there is no connection back to the RX. Auxiliary power is fed to the retracts and only the retracts on what remains of that center power lead. The RX signal and ground go to the retracts as normal, except that the auxiliary supply has to have it's ground connected to that ground as well. But you can do that by tying the ground in at the battery if you want. The battery ground is common with the ESC ground.

The EMOTECH that Silent is using is something different altogether. I'm assuming he's supplying power to the RX via this dual-battery switch, instead of using the ESC supplying the power. Not clear if he's powering the retracts separately (like, off the ESC). If the retracts are still plugged in to the RX, the EMOTECH doesn't really look like it'll help (in the context of the issue we're talking about - overloading the ESC BEC with jammed retracts). The EMO has a 4A limit, which is actually lower than the ESC's BEC. The EMO provides protection for the radio if the BEC in the ESC dies, but otherwise doesn't address the supposed retract issue...
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Old Sep 02, 2015, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent-AV8R View Post
For now I replaced the elevator pushrod and clevis. The rest I will watch and replace as needed if I feel they are causing any issues.

I also a using a completely separate power system for the radio. I do not want to lose control of the plane if the motor, ESC/BEC, or main power battery fail. I'm using a 2,550 2S lipo running through an EMCOTEC regulated magnetic switch which drops the voltage to a steady 5.5 volts.

I'm using the larger lipo mostly because that is the size I had and it will give plenty of capacity in case the retracts decide to go rogue!!

BTW - I use the separate radio power setup on all my electrics Gives me peace of mind. I think of it like a power plane. I would not want to lose the radio if I ran out of fuel, lost a glow plug, or had some other power system failure.

What I'm interested in next are 3-blade props!!
Deleted, answered my own question....
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Last edited by carrizojim; Sep 02, 2015 at 10:44 PM.
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