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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
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Cooling Ideas

Bruce you were asking about some good ideas for cooling and I was also wondering about my Sea Fury. So what I was thinking about was using helicopter engine cooling fans and/or modifying them to work. If your interested here are some links to different size fans. In the case of the mossie if one leaves some distance between the exhaust manifold and the nacelle side then that could be the hot air exhaust.


www.completeheli.com

www.completeheli.com/T-Rex-700-Parts

www.airfieldmodels.com thunder_tiger_raptor_30_v2

www.helipal.com/hm-83-2801--z-35-engine-cooling-fan.html

www.helipal.com/hn6025-engine-fan-set.html

http://www.wattsuprc.com.au

www.heli-world.com all

Even if one uses just the fan blade to move air around it should help to cool the engine. Even the shroud can be modified to fit the application. Don't forget heli's work a lot harder than airplane engine do and with hotter fuel, usually, so if it works for them it should work for us.

Oh I put the BT mossie on my xmas list and told the wife that I already have the engines so I'll most likely will have to reread this whole thread again, just like a good book.

Ray
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Last edited by Nav_Aids; Oct 23, 2012 at 11:23 AM. Reason: URL fix
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:06 PM
Jack of all master of none
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Baltimore MD USA
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Alright I'm back guys I've had a better offer lately of the female persuasion

Toast... yes it was built for speed and they didn't consider there comfort at all!

Nav_Aids.. I don't know if I'll need to cool the engine w/ a fan since I've cut the bottom of the cowling now, but I'll keep this info for my next build I think it will be the
IL-2 from Sky Shark I have that on my Christmas list.

You guys have to remember that this plane almost was never put into production at all, if it would have been a ALUM aircraft they would have never built it.

Alright I solder the wire to the main crank and made some adjustments to the push rod wire and servo horn and have ran a motion test.

I would like any of you guys that have built this plane to look at the gap when the FLAP is deployed is this correct ?? it seems to move out as well as down does this look correct??

Check out the photos and feel free to add any intelligent comments or ideas.

Bruce
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Last edited by splinterz25; Oct 23, 2012 at 03:13 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 05:13 PM
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United Kingdom, England, North York
Joined Nov 2004
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Bruce,

It does have an odd movement and the gap opens up at the bottom, have a look at my build log, post #5 with the video shot from the underside of the flap. From a theoretical fluid flow point of view I do not expect this to be too much of an issue.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...01&postcount=5

As long as you have a consistent small gap at the top to show the radius of the flap leading edge is correct then it will reman airtight. The pictures from above in that post have the flaps open much more than they do, they were just free hanging at that point.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 05:29 PM
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Peter That's whats it's doing on the bottom the same as your video, so it also must open up on the top when deployed then? and move away from the AFT end of the wing some?

Bruce
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Alright after having some input this evening from all three sites it looks like the motion I'm getting is correct.

NOW there will be some tricky lining up of the brass ribs and soldering them just where they need to be

And a few more test be for gluing in the actuator & ribs.
Have a look at both FLAPS just set in place and the amount of throw I'm getting and the drawing it really shows the gaps and the angle of the FLAPS.

Bruce
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Australia, ACT, Canberra
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Bruce Its the hinge points that is the problem. The main hinge point is above the Flap and second hinge (the movement point) is built into the flap. For parallel movement both hinges must be in line. Either above the Flap or within the flap..
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Roddie,

No both of the hinges are below the bottom of the flap, Bruce's pictures are from the underside and hence the hinges are below. If you look at the second photo in the post above you will see that the actuation hinge line is outside the contour of the flap, and the robart hinge outboard is also outside the contour of the flap. That is how the plan is drawn, that is how my flaps actuate.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:29 PM
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Baltimore MD USA
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Rod.. Yes Peter is correct the hinge pivot point is 1/4" below the skin surface
this is a very tricky bugger to get working properly there are a lot of variables
going on here.

I knew this was going to be a challenge this was one of the reasons
I waited to do this later in the build and w/ me making my own custom actuator it
just adds to it.

Not having drawn this up on CAD I have to work through problems by trial and error, the biggest thing right now is getting the correct travel on the servo arm
to get full FLAPS and back to neutral.

So I'm still working on it, I've made some red marks on the drawing to try and help you other guys understand better and placed a
ruler in spots to show the gap size and hing pivot points.

Still trying to make it work well
Bruce
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 09:05 PM
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United States, NC, Hendersonville
Joined Oct 2009
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Bruce - flap throw should be around 30-35 degrees max. With mine anything more really made the plane pitch up and had way too much drag. Almost got into trouble that way on the first couple of flights.

Rob
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
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Flap Pivot Point

Bruce, I'm not sure but that pivot point seems to me to be about 1/4" to far towards the flap TE. If it is moved closer to the LE where the LE radius ends then the LE should rotate and not pull away.

Ray
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Last edited by Nav_Aids; Oct 24, 2012 at 10:10 PM. Reason: Clarify
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Baltimore MD USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nav_Aids View Post
Bruce, I'm not sure but that pivot point seems to me to be about 1/4" to far towards the flap TE. If it is moved closer to the LE where the LE radius ends then the LE should rotate and not pull away.

Ray
Ray look at drawing 4 it shows it pull away about 3/8"-7/16" on the top and about 7/8"- 1" on the bottom?
this was my concern also at first but I'm having guys on all of my threads say it moves back and down.

Bruce
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Baltimore MD USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMason View Post
Bruce - flap throw should be around 30-35 degrees max. With mine anything more really made the plane pitch up and had way too much drag. Almost got into trouble that way on the first couple of flights.

Rob
Thanks rob this will help I won't push it so far to full FLAPS and should help with the amount of motion I'm getting and make it easier to set up.
Now if I can just get everything else to work smooth it should be fine?

STILL WORKING ON IT

Bruce
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splinterz25 View Post
Ray look at drawing 4 it shows it pull away about 3/8"-7/16" on the top and about 7/8"- 1" on the bottom?
this was my concern also at first but I'm having guys on all of my threads say it moves back and down.

Bruce
Ok, it's just that in photos of the real plane, there is little gap showing when the flaps are deployed. Oh well.

Ray
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nav_Aids View Post
Ok, it's just that in photos of the real plane, there is little gap showing when the flaps are deployed. Oh well.

Ray
Yea sometimes we can't make every part the same as a full scale plane
but it's fun trying!

Bruce
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 05:26 AM
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Australia, ACT, Canberra
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Bruce still just jogging along with the planking. Looking good but boring, as you said all those joints!!!! So I needed a break and do something else so I thought I would start the other side. Rather than just build a second one I would build on to the existing one (it was flat no twists). Had a bit of fun. From your build log you put in a bottle holder in to the front section is this necessary ??
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