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Old Dec 07, 2012, 08:08 PM
St. Mary's County, Maryland
spindeepster's Avatar
United States, MD, Leonardtown
Joined Dec 2012
174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotoflyer View Post
I'm switching to a different subject here, but since this IS the "Ultimate HobbyZone SuperCub Help Thread (Part 4)" I decided that was ok.

The wings on my Super Cub have become really floppy. The stock plastic wing struts only keep the wings from going up, and of course do nothing if the wings want to sag down. Mine are sagging down so far that I've lost quite a bit of dihedral and they look almost flat. When I'm flying it, it doesn't feel just right and I miss the solid way it flew before.

So my question is: Does anyone know of someone who has designed and is selling stiff struts, made of wood or carbon filber or even plastic? These would hold the wings firmly and keep them from flexing down as well as flexing up. I have a super-cheap HK J-3 Cub Oldtimer that came as a kit. It has solid wooden struts, they are light weight, strong and work well. Something like that is what I'd like to find for the Super Cub.

Or would there be some simple way to attach a stiff rod to the existing floppy struts that would do the job?

ALL the flexing of the wings occurs right where the wings meet the fuselage. I suspect the foam has been overstressed at this point. I can't see any breakage but there might be separation inside. So maybe a short strut would work also.

Opinions, ideas?
I have the exact same issue, and mis-diagnosed the problem. I THOUGHT I had stretched out the struts during my learning curve (that I'm still in). I bought new struts and was surprised to discover that my struts weren't stretched after all. Now I'm thinking of doing this. The new struts came with the little "buttons" that go through the wing....they provide the "loop" that the strut ends hook to. I'm considering sending two of the four I have up through each wing the other way, and out much closer to the wing tips. With these fasteners on top, I'm going to run kevlar fishing line (it does not stretch) through the loops and draw tight, pulling the wingtips up. Any thoughts?
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Last edited by spindeepster; Dec 07, 2012 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:11 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Cañada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
5,763 Posts
Just cut the struts to the size you need and then using a lighter heat the end out near the button and then using a screwdriver bend the tips up to a 100 degree angle. Don't do this with them still attached mind you, but it is really simple and doesn't do anything other then get rid of those ridiculous hooks. If you have ever broken the strut hooks this makes them not only useful again, but better.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:03 AM
Registered User
United States, TX, Richardson
Joined Oct 2011
303 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by spindeepster View Post
I have the exact same issue, and mis-diagnosed the problem. I THOUGHT I had stretched out the struts during my learning curve (that I'm still in). I bought new struts and was surprised to discover that my struts weren't stretched after all. Now I'm thinking of doing this. The new struts came with the little "buttons" that go through the wing....they provide the "loop" that the strut ends hook to. I'm considering sending two of the four I have up through each wing the other way, and out much closer to the wing tips. With these fasteners on top, I'm going to run kevlar fishing line (it does not stretch) through the loops and draw tight, pulling the wingtips up. Any thoughts?
You don't have to insert any new buttons. From the bottom of the wing, push up on the button. This will give you a little gap on the top side between the cap on the button and the wing. Now just slip your fishing line between the cap and the wing and tie it with your favorite knot. Cut off the extra line. Now you have a good anchor point.

Then I suggest you run the lines in an X such that the back button on one wing goes to the front button on the other ring. When you do both buttons like that your fishing line will meet in the center of the wing. I think that might look better and is neater.

In the future if you think you would like to pull the wings up a bit more, you can put some kind of object between the top of the wing, where the lines cross, to push up at this point, thus pulling your wing tips up. You could make it Charlie Brown, haha.

I already did this to my SC and it works fine.

Gus
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:13 AM
Sure, I can fly after sunset!?
United States, MI, Novi
Joined Jan 2011
562 Posts
Many of us have reinforced our wings by covering them in shipping tape It helps prevent the wings from snapping off in a bad crash, but also stiffens then out. Perhaps a couple pieces run from wing tip to wing tip would help.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:52 AM
St. Mary's County, Maryland
spindeepster's Avatar
United States, MD, Leonardtown
Joined Dec 2012
174 Posts
"You don't have to insert any new buttons. From the bottom of the wing, push up on the button. This will give you a little gap on the top side between the cap on the button and the wing. Now just slip your fishing line between the cap and the wing and tie it with your favorite knot. Cut off the extra line. Now you have a good anchor point."

BRILLIANT! I read this and had the mod completed before I finished this mornings first cup of coffee. Now I'm just waiting for sunrise to hurry up and get here.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 07:35 AM
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United States, NY, Baldwinsville
Joined Mar 2009
298 Posts
I removed the Dihedral, added a CF rod, added ailirons, battery compartment mod, CustomRC mount, PZ 480 motor, PZ 40amp speed control, Hitect servos, and an Ar6200 receiver. I patched up the fus and wing with spackling and covered with Coverite Microkote. Graphics were done by Callie Graphics.
I heard the floats were great on snow; so I got a pair. I tricked them out a bit and covered them; made cf struts for the wing.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 07:55 AM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatbob02 View Post
I removed the Dihedral, added a CF rod, added ailirons, battery compartment mod, CustomRC mount, PZ 480 motor, PZ 40amp speed control, Hitect servos, and an Ar6200 receiver. I patched up the fus and wing with spackling and covered with Coverite Microkote. Graphics were done by Callie Graphics.
I heard the floats were great on snow; so I got a pair. I tricked them out a bit and covered them; made cf struts for the wing.
Great looking SC!
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 09:35 AM
Registered User
United States, IL, Libertyville
Joined Jan 2011
124 Posts
Fantastic looking SC. You'll have fun flying floats from snow. Last winter I had a great time with it and even in a park with footprints and tracks the floats handle it no problem. Almost like choppy water without the splash concern. Enjoy.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 11:37 AM
Tally Ho Chaps!
Chompwat's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Ipswich
Joined Mar 2012
453 Posts
Beautiful Cub phatbob, she's a stunner.
I cannot recommend Callie Graphics highly enough. They have just made the graphics for my SE5a build. £16 ($26) made and dispatched to the UK on the day of order and received within a week.
How did you find the applying the Microkote to the foam? A very neat job and something I'd like to try on mine to cover all the dents and dings!
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 02:17 PM
Epilepsy Awareness
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,830 Posts
phatbob, Your SC is beautiful

Mike.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 04:17 PM
Arrowhead
Joined Dec 2010
1,389 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chompwat View Post
Beautiful Cub phatbob, she's a stunner.
I cannot recommend Callie Graphics highly enough. They have just made the graphics for my SE5a build. £16 ($26) made and dispatched to the UK on the day of order and received within a week.
How did you find the applying the Microkote to the foam? A very neat job and something I'd like to try on mine to cover all the dents and dings!
I haven't tried Microkote, but have used Monokote. You have to keep the heat low, of course. The cover kinda tack-bonds to the foam, and peels off easily. However if you're able to completely wrap the part you're working on, Monokote sticks to itself very well. In the end it works well & looks pretty good! The downside is, with all that area aft of the CG, you end up tail-heavy unless you add some nose weight.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:06 PM
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United States, NY, Baldwinsville
Joined Mar 2009
298 Posts
Thanks guys! I had fun doing it.
My bud at the local hobby suggested the microkote. It applies with low heat and is very easy to apply to the foam. I used a trim iron to cover the floats and the edges did seal along the plastic hulls.
I think I over did it with the 480 motor. I wanted to make sure I had the power with the floats added. 1/2 throttle is enough, full thottle and she wants to climb.
I was very pleased with the first flight. She flew great!
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:13 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Cañada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
5,763 Posts
Who ever recommended the RCTimer 1120kv 450 motor---Thanks. This motor is lighter and better then my E-flite 450 and as good if not better then the Eflite 480. I'll get some numbers next time with the watt meter.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:20 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
A Rdnek's Avatar
United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
4,028 Posts
This one?
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...wt&goodsid=130
Rn
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:38 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Cañada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
5,763 Posts
Yes. That is it.
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