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View Poll Results: What style of Turnigy 1/16 vehicle do you prefer?
Rally Extreme 39 40.63%
Mini Trooper 34 35.42%
Racing Buggy 23 23.96%
Voters: 96. You may not vote on this poll

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Old Nov 11, 2014, 06:30 PM
Master of Micro Modding
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Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz View Post
It seems like you got yours working with CA, so I might just try that first.
I don't even use CA now, I just put the lock nuts on backwards; so the rubber locking part screws down first. I've put many packs through my 2 drifters with my little brother and we haven't lost a wheel since reversing the lock nuts

Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz View Post
Valiantglx, I don't see how you tightened the wheelnuts down as far as you did in the picture above. Even with the Tacon hexes, that are about 2mm thinner, the wheeldrive on mine only makes it halfway through the wheelnut, basically it doesn't make it to the nylon part of the nut (which might be ok if I use purple threadlocker maybe). I wonder if mine and your rally drives are different lengths? Though I got mine used, so who knows what replacements the previous owner used if any, but then again I haven't had to replace my wheeldrives and I don't imagine having to anytime soon, so IDK.

The turnigy wheel hexes sitting inside the wheel are thicker than the space they fit into by about 2mm. When the Tacon hexes are sitting inside the wheel they fit flush with the wheel hub. And any hex thinner than that wouldn't work anyway, the knuckle would probably just start rubbing on the wheelhub... or the hex wouldn't sit all the way into the hub and still you'd have the same number of threads and more issues.

Anway, I was thinking of what I'm going to try next. The part of the wheel that the drive goes through is really thick. So I was going to try to just drill it out maybe halfway through with a big bit through the front of the wheel, maybe to match the rally wheels at least. These drift wheels are heavier so they probably could use the extra thickness, so I'll do minimum of what I need to. It's tempting to try this, but if I just wait buggy rear wheeldrives are really cheap. But with the rally wheels there's tons of wheeldrive thread left, so I shouldn't have to take much off of the drift wheels.
I've installed drift wheels to my MT and RE and the axle lengths were the same. The photo may be a bit deceiving because the CA in the wheel nut makes the axle look closer to the end.

Drilling out a bit for the nut to slot into sounds like it would work, but try putting the lock nuts on backwards first
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 05:05 PM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
Joined Nov 2008
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New to this thread, just found it.

I just stumbled onto this thread while I was doing research on my newly (2 weeks ago) Mini Rally Extreme, which came from the assembly line with a "buggered" rear suspension. One H arm had a 2.5% factory built-in Tow-in and the other side's H arm had Zero % Toe-in. Someone on the assembly line came to work in Shenzhen China drunk. HK is sending me replacement AL H-arms to make up for the sloopy Assem and non-existant QA.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but I found that ALL these Turnigy RC cars are actually made by Acme Tech of Shenzhen China. You all realize "Turnigy" is just a brand name and they (along with HobbyKing in general, actually makes nothing? I used to import Brushless motors and controllers from most of the better mfr in China for commercial applications, made many trip to China, so I know this for a fact. HK is a "re-brander", and retailer.

The story on Acme is that they literally "Cloned" (aka as ripped off) the designs for their cars, from Kyosho. Other than the drive train in the 1/16th models being different, everything else is a clone. Which is why Kyosho parts fit on the Acme/Turnigy cars to a tee.

If you want to convert to 12mm Hubs, don't bother with the Drifter kit, unless you want the wheels and tires too. The Traxxas 1/16th scale upgrade kit, 8mm to 12mm is a "drop in", BUT you'll have to use 3mm off-set wheels.

Here's your Acme Shadow Rally before re-branding to Mini Rally Extreme, HK even uses the same part number 2029T and the same "race number" 29 on the car. Go to their home page and see all the other Turnigy cars including the Trooper (used the same name and #) and the Super Bug, etc.

If you want a better more torquey motor for your Mini Rally Extreme, Hyperion makes (sells) the HP-Y22L-5000 (5000kv) which is a nice step up from the stop 4800kv (really 4550 as measured). More torque, MORE speed still on a lighter 2S LiPO, without having to switch to a much heavier 3S LiPO.

Now I need to find a brass replacement drive Crown Gear drop in. Anyone found one yet?? What's the pitch and teeth count?

Pictures below - Original "skewed" rear suspension and Acme's "Siamese twin" Mini Rally Ext (Shadow)
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 06:45 PM
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Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makeitworst View Post
I just stumbled onto this thread while I was doing research on my newly (2 weeks ago) Mini Rally Extreme, which came from the assembly line with a "buggered" rear suspension. One H arm had a 2.5% factory built-in Tow-in and the other side's H arm had Zero % Toe-in. Someone on the assembly line came to work in Shenzhen China drunk. HK is sending me replacement AL H-arms to make up for the sloopy Assem and non-existant QA.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but I found that ALL these Turnigy RC cars are actually made by Acme Tech of Shenzhen China. You all realize "Turnigy" is just a brand name and they (along with HobbyKing in general, actually makes nothing? I used to import Brushless motors and controllers from most of the better mfr in China for commercial applications, made many trip to China, so I know this for a fact. HK is a "re-brander", and retailer.

The story on Acme is that they literally "Cloned" (aka as ripped off) the designs for their cars, from Kyosho. Other than the drive train in the 1/16th models being different, everything else is a clone. Which is why Kyosho parts fit on the Acme/Turnigy cars to a tee.

If you want to convert to 12mm Hubs, don't bother with the Drifter kit, unless you want the wheels and tires too. The Traxxas 1/16th scale upgrade kit, 8mm to 12mm is a "drop in", BUT you'll have to use 3mm off-set wheels.

Here's your Acme Shadow Rally before re-branding to Mini Rally Extreme, HK even uses the same part number 2029T and the same "race number" 29 on the car. Go to their home page and see all the other Turnigy cars including the Trooper (used the same name and #) and the Super Bug, etc.

If you want a better more torquey motor for your Mini Rally Extreme, Hyperion makes (sells) the HP-Y22L-5000 (5000kv) which is a nice step up from the stop 4800kv (really 4550 as measured). More torque, MORE speed still on a lighter 2S LiPO, without having to switch to a much heavier 3S LiPO.

Now I need to find a brass replacement drive Crown Gear drop in. Anyone found one yet?? What's the pitch and teeth count?

Pictures below - Original "skewed" rear suspension and Acme's "Siamese twin" Mini Rally Ext (Shadow)
Cool info, but at the end of the day who cares where they're made as long as we get them cheap. I'm sure Horizon Hobbys gear is made in china too, infact they're new umx spacewalker is a direct ripoff of an early kyosho plane. Everyone does it. I think what Hobby King does is great, they help the cheap companies get they're gear out there, lets be honest none of us would even know about these 1/16ths if it wasn't for HK.

If you want 12mm hexes you can pick up a set for the little cosmos for under half a buck.

If you want more torque, get a 4pole motor. The castle creations 5xxxkV mamba is about the best thing you can buy.

You also make no mention of changing the esc, which is the best performance increase.

I like that they ripped off kyosho, now we have tried and true well designed parts for less than a squeezy pack of sauce at a takeaway shop
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 07:33 PM
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Second that. No one really cares if hobby king rebrands their stuff. Us hobby king fans don't buy their products so we can brag about the brand name. Around here HK is ignored or even laughed at , at most hobby shops and tracks. I buy HK because it's cheap, and it gets the job done. I've broken my share if parts but I can also say the same thing about my latrax rally. ( which breaks the diff gears every run, and yes it's using the stock brushed motor) I've had no issues with their cheap as dirt lipos, and have been very happy with the trackstar motors and secs I've used in my 1/10 scale trooper. All in all good products.
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 11:11 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Cool info, but at the end of the day who cares where they're made as long as we get them cheap. I'm sure Horizon Hobbys gear is made in china too, infact they're new umx spacewalker is a direct ripoff of an early kyosho plane. Everyone does it. I think what Hobby King does is great, they help the cheap companies get they're gear out there, lets be honest none of us would even know about these 1/16ths if it wasn't for HK.

If you want 12mm hexes you can pick up a set for the little cosmos for under half a buck.

If you want more torque, get a 4pole motor. The castle creations 5xxxkV mamba is about the best thing you can buy.

You also make no mention of changing the esc, which is the best performance increase.

I like that they ripped off kyosho, now we have tried and true well designed parts for less than a squeezy pack of sauce at a takeaway shop
Well, my my I had no idea that the both of you had the credentials to "speak for" the entire RC community. Your snippy condescending replies is most interesting.

So let me explain, since it's pretty obvious my post went totally over your heads:

1) Yes, HobbyKing is a marketing giant and necessary "evil" that gives better access to some obscure manufacturers in China. I never said I have any problem with the products they sell, at least that I've bought (a couple grand a year) HOWEVER, HK makes a lot of false claims over the years that THEY make what they sell when it carries their brands and that is a bald face lie, AND neophytes need to know that. Again, NOT complaining about their parts necessarily.

2) 411 pals, nearly EVERY RC product you buy from any company - AE through Traxxas, Tower Hobbies or Hobby Express, etc., is made IN CHINA and buy companies like this Acme Tech and when it's hard to find parts in the US as is the case for the Turnigy cars, it helps EVERYONE to know who really makes it and other brands that contain the same parts or the whole car, so we all can find alternate sources that are in the US. HK parts prices are pretty cheap, but the shipping charges are often MORE than the parts and who likes to wait 3 weeks to 8 weeks to get them from HK HK.

BTW - Any RC'ers that look down their nose "at the track" or on a forum, is just pompous and stupid. Thinking that your $1000+ Traxxas made with likely many of the same parts that's sold at HK and made in China anyway, is just ignorant. It's the old "Sony Syndrome", look at the lower priced Korean's kicking Sony's butt now with better quality.

Duh on the Brushless motor and a replacement ESC. Hyperion makes a hot 22mm Dia. Brushless 5000kv / 22A , 2.3mm output shaft motor that I'm installing now, using a Turnigy 35A ESC.

The Traxxas #7154 12mm upgrade hubs w/ pins kit for their 1/16 scale car series is a drop in, same axle diameter .... parts probably made by Acme Tech.

So, I hope I helped you know it all's ..... oh Duh, I'm sure you already know all this stuff already, so I won't bother sharing any more info in the future.

Think I'll stick with the RC Airplane side of the forum, they clearly aren't as "uppity" as here.
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 01:54 PM
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Just to let you know the traxxas 12 mm hexes have been mentioned before. I've been using them for some time now, with no issues.
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 06:44 PM
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I think you have got the wrong kettle of fish about us.

In recent times HK usually says in their product vids that they get the company in focus to build something to their specs.

But HK are by no means perfect, I have bought a few rough items, and some items the stats / measurements don't correlate to the website. But I still buy from them because:

They're cheap
QC of expensive brands isn't much better in my experience.
Same week shipping to Australia, even from the global warehouse

Are you serious, went over our heads, pfffft. You basically quoted me in that at the end of the day everything is made in china.

Also how is that motor fitting? It looks like the collar sticking out around the shaft will be a problem without mods.

If you want a real argument go tell the UMX B-17g guys that it is overpriced and brushed motors are unreliable
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 03:20 PM
Don't take any wooden nickels
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
I don't even use CA now, I just put the lock nuts on backwards; so the rubber locking part screws down first. I've put many packs through my 2 drifters with my little brother and we haven't lost a wheel since reversing the lock nuts



I've installed drift wheels to my MT and RE and the axle lengths were the same. The photo may be a bit deceiving because the CA in the wheel nut makes the axle look closer to the end.

Drilling out a bit for the nut to slot into sounds like it would work, but try putting the lock nuts on backwards first
I drilled the wheels out a little bit a couple days ago, I haven't had a chance to run it yet because I've been switching motors and other stuff around. I did get a chance to loctite the LC racing motor to my rally last night though, so as long as my pinion meshing didn't get screwed up I'll give it a try later on. But funny enough, I ended up putting my wheel nuts on backwards too, but my reason was because I only had a 1/4in drill bit to drill the front of the wheels out a little with and the wheel nut doesn't really sit inside of a 1/4in depression (when you have the tools I have, and the drill wants to pull itself to one side or the other when it starts biting), so putting the wheelnuts backwards took care of that because it's round on that side. Also, having the round side in kind of fills in the divet left by the point of the drill bit. I might switch them around to normal when I get a better drillbit set soon. I went a little too far on one wheel, but it works ok anyway... the drill bit wants to pull itself all the way through like a bat out of hell, so IMO the bigger the drill bit the better. A drill press with a plunge limiter would have been nice, but I can't have it all I realize.

But otherwise, seeing how a nylon locking nut has the nylon part closer to the (would-be) outside edge, I'd think you'd be better off with it flipped around the right way, where the wheeldrive threads pass through the wheelnut metal thread first before the nylon part of the nut. Just thinking out-loud, not expressing anything definite . The nylon holds better now, with tighter "tolerances" than the metal thread, but how long will that last?

Probably the buggy rear wheeldrives, or maybe the cosmos ones even, sound like the best option to me so far for $3. My only thought then is that I would have to switch those drives out everytime to mount any other wheels I have... or use a spacer I guess.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 06:17 PM
Don't take any wooden nickels
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Joined Mar 2012
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Has anyone ever tried cutting the extra plastic piece on the tip of the front lower arm, to see if it causes any problems without it being there? I might just try it out, I have a lot of extra front lower arms.

The piece serves to hold the gap, I know, but it is a pain with aftermarket wheels without the perfect offset. I took a dremel to the ribs of a Tacon wheel but it's not enough, I'd probably have to remove the whole rib basically! This method might work for some ebay wheels I got, not looking forward to weakening those ones specifically though.

It might be easier to get the alloy arms that don't have that extra reinforcement piece, but I don't really want alum arms.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 06:54 PM
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I've got the aluminum arms in the front. No negative side affects yet. Unless you enjoy replacing lower arms often.
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