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Old Nov 19, 2014, 09:01 PM
You can call me Pat
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Dec 2013
412 Posts
tail servo buzzing

Just put a DS650 on the tail of my Swift and it's buzzing pretty loud. Bypassing the gyro and plugging strait to the receiver gives the exact same thing.
Strange because when run on my servo tester it was silent.
I have heard that some digital servos are just noisy, but the cyclic servos are digital Hitecs and they don't make any noise.
Is the DS650 inherently noisy?
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 09:25 PM
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United States, IL, Lombard
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mligosh View Post
The gray are for 2mm pushrods and the black for 2.5mm . So not interchangeable. They thread on but can be pulled off with force.

Pm'd you back

Mike
Ahhh - makes sense. Should have gotten my calipers out

You learn something every day !

P.S. You Rock Mike!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdooley View Post
Just put a DS650 on the tail of my Swift and it's buzzing pretty loud. Bypassing the gyro and plugging strait to the receiver gives the exact same thing.
Strange because when run on my servo tester it was silent.
I have heard that some digital servos are just noisy, but the cyclic servos are digital Hitecs and they don't make any noise.
Is the DS650 inherently noisy?
Does it still buzz if you disconnect the pushrod from the servo arm? Mine aren't very noisy - maybe just a little. Perhaps there's some binding going on with the pushrod ... (?)
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 09:34 PM
You can call me Pat
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Dec 2013
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that was the answer. I disconnected the pushrod and no buzzing. i should have thought of that.
The linkage is actually rather tight. I know that's bad but I was lazy and just hoping it would loosen up as I flew it. I think it's the pitch slider. Will check.
Thanks again for the help.

Pat
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 09:46 PM
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One of the things I learned is to make sure that the entire tail linkage is buttery smooth - always. If it sticks or is difficult for you to move by hand then there are going to be problems once you get it in the air.

A very kind and helpful RCG member (Phoenixheli I believe) recommended to put the ball on the other side of the servo arm and then swing the servo on the boom to a more vertical orientation. Once I did that my push-rod alignment/binding issues vanished ... Surprisingly, there's plenty of throw and clearance with the ball back there.

You may have to mount the tail servo on the other side of the boom mounts for this to work.
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 10:13 PM
You can call me Pat
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Dec 2013
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I'll try that.
the picture also cleared up another concern- which hole to use on the servo arm. I chose the furthest hole out also. didn't see any info in the manual.
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 10:17 PM
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If I remember correctly ... outer holes result in higher mechanical gain of the tail system, while inner holes result in more resolution of movement. If it turns out you have too much throw (or wagging with low gyro gain) you can move the ball in a hole and trade some of that movement for accuracy. Of course any changes you make to the mechanical gain will most likely require tweaks to the electronic gain setting of your gyro.

With the ball on the the backside of the servo arm I think the only hole that will work is the outer one for clearance reasons ...

Hey Mike - you mentioned switching your helis over to the CF push-rods - I like those better too. But, I think I have to use the 'wire' on the scale fuselage as there may not be enough room inside the fiberglass boom for the rod and it's mounts ... I'll have to re-check.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 08:18 AM
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Try 17mm on the tail servo arm. That gyro you have is a clone. May not work at all with that servo. Servo's have frame rates and pulse widths which need to match the gyro. Might want to look at a GY 520. Used pretty cheap.. GY401/9254 works perfect too. Clone stuff is just a headache.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 10:59 AM
You can call me Pat
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Dec 2013
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yeah, i know better regarding the gyro. it's what I had on hand. does seem a little silly to risk a failure over a cheap gyro though. I'll look into this.
thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 11:21 AM
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I have a heli with a a GY 520 and a DS 650. Works great.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Thanks for all of that info Phil! I might initially try out those S3003s ... but I agree - better servos are always a good choice

I think with that power setup I can get down to the 1500 RPM range with the ESC set to like 60%. I even have an 8T pinion that may actually survive with the lower head speeds ... (?)

One of the things that will be different is mounting the receiver (and gyro ?) up front since I won't have access to them if they're mounted at the rear of the frame once it's all inside the scale fuselage. Might get crowded with the battery and ESC already up there ... I suppose they could mount off-frame to the fuselage since there's going to be extra room on both sides.

Odd - the Lightning 550 motor has 3 or 3.5mm bullet connectors as opposed to the 4mm like on all of Century's other motors (?) I think I'll be changing those out to 4mm as I really don't want to put 3 or 3.5mm sockets on a 100A ESC (for future use that is). The motor is 50A max./70A surge.
From the description of your ESC, it should have no problem operating at a 60% setting.

When I mounted my Swift mechanics in the A-109A fuselage, I found a lot of room on the plywood bulkheads & floor to mount the electronics. I would think your scale body would offer up similar room.

When considering connectors, one must take into account the WATTS (amps x volts) that would be needed to fly the heli. In the case of your scale 550 heli, at a head speed in the 1500 zone, you will find that the average wattage required would only average around 430 watts or so, with peaks at around 700. Using a 5S pack, that means the amp draw would only average 23.25 amps (430watts/18.5Volts), with peaks of only about 37.85 (700/18.5).

So your 100 amp ESC is more then enough. It is an ESC designed to even handle power systems for hot 3D flying, at high rotor speeds of 2300 or more. These will have average wattage consumption of 800 watts with peaks as high as 1500 watts or more. Using a 6S pack that would mean amp draws of 36 to 68.

Now consider the same type of flying with the same 2300 head speed on a 5S pack. Now the amp draw would increase to 43 and 81, Using a 4S pack that would now be 54 and 101.

So if your motor specs say it will take 5 cell packs and has a 50 amp max rating, then its MAX wattage would be 50Amp x 18.5Volts = 925 watts. The stock bullet connectors would probably be fine handling that. They would certainly be adequate for use in your scale 1500 head speed application.
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 03:47 PM
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pdooley. Can you already fly heli's? Or, is this one your first?
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 04:37 PM
You can call me Pat
United States, FL, Tampa
Joined Dec 2013
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Originally Posted by Greybird View Post
pdooley. Can you already fly heli's? Or, is this one your first?
I can fly a poorly set up fly-barred 450, so I can do anything
I have lots of sim time but not much flying time. Never flown anything bigger than a 450.
Got close with a trex 500, but the tail shook pretty bad on spool up. that one is still sitting on the shelf.
I'm anxious to fly bigger helis but a little nervous too. Not such much in crashing, if that happens so be it. Just don't want to injure people or damage property.
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