HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:36 AM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
Discussion
Proboat PT 109 mod - Sea trial SUCCESS

Hello there,

Does someone own one of these that can show me how it's wired? the only plan that I've seen so far doesn't include the wheelhouse light, or show how the port and starboard lights are wired.

These boats are discontinued of course, and I've bought all of the parts, except different motors, control, transmitter and radio. I've put two brushless Mamba motors in, and it destroyed the original props, so I got brass ones.

I had to put the rudder linkage together myself, that was the toughest part.

The only thing that is a mystery is the LED setup, and Horizon Hobby won't help at all. I did get a nice guy there to take pictures of the rudder linkage, apparently they have one of these boats in the office. But, since then any information or help from them has been verbotten.

So far, the water cooling that I've read folks having trouble with, has worked fine on my boat. Each motor has its own ESC, and they are not water cooled, so the two ports each do only a single motor.

Any help would be most appreciated. Once I've got the LEDs sorted I can move on to paint.

Thanks
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Last edited by arcwelder76; Oct 17, 2012 at 04:28 PM. Reason: update
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:17 PM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
Anyone? Bueller?

Did I post this in the right area?
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 15, 2012, 11:56 PM
P31
Registered User
United States, WA, Spanaway
Joined Dec 2011
598 Posts
Hey Buddy, Ive got one , and the origenal ESC had a plug that came off the side and the lights plugged into it. If you have changed that you will have to provide power to the lights 3 to 4 volts, maybe a couple of batteries with a switch.
Gary
P31 is offline Find More Posts by P31
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 16, 2012, 12:27 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
218 Posts
Hi,
LEDs are polarized components (like ordinary diodes) so anode needs to go to +ve supply and cathode to -ve supply. They are also current driven so need a ballast resistor to limit current. (unlike filament bulbs)
You can assume about a 2v drop (depends on colour and doping) and would probably want to run about 10-15mA through them.
If you have a 5V BEC output then try about 220 ohms in series with each LED.
Is the wheelhouse LED white? These drop about 3.2V so you may need to reduce the resistor to about 150 ohms for this.
If you want to run off 12V you could put them all in series (anode-cathode-anode-carhode.....) and use a single resistor of about 390 -470 ohms.
Good luck.

Cheers,
David
KiwiDavid is offline Find More Posts by KiwiDavid
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 16, 2012, 07:04 AM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pamela31 View Post
Hey Buddy, Ive got one , and the origenal ESC had a plug that came off the side and the lights plugged into it. If you have changed that you will have to provide power to the lights 3 to 4 volts, maybe a couple of batteries with a switch.
Gary
The original ESC and motors are not being used, but I do have the little circuit board, and the LEDs that are used. What I need to know is the correct way to attach them to the circuit board.

We've got:

Mast light
Bow light
Cabin light
Starboard (strobing?)
Port (strobing)

and here is the circuit board:




Quote:
Originally Posted by KiwiDavid View Post
Hi,
LEDs are polarized components (like ordinary diodes) so anode needs to go to +ve supply and cathode to -ve supply. They are also current driven so need a ballast resistor to limit current. (unlike filament bulbs)
You can assume about a 2v drop (depends on colour and doping) and would probably want to run about 10-15mA through them.
If you have a 5V BEC output then try about 220 ohms in series with each LED.
Is the wheelhouse LED white? These drop about 3.2V so you may need to reduce the resistor to about 150 ohms for this.
If you want to run off 12V you could put them all in series (anode-cathode-anode-carhode.....) and use a single resistor of about 390 -470 ohms.
Good luck.

Cheers,
David
The main advantage to using the original circuit board is the strobing effect. Otherwise I'll wire them differently, perhaps into one of the NiMh batteries, which are 8.4v.
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2012, 03:21 PM
Registered User
Waukesha, WI
Joined Dec 2006
259 Posts
from looking at your circuit board three of leads connect to one end of your resistor the blue structure- those are the three that connect to the 3 LED's. The lead that connect connects to the other end of the resistor is the battery supply lead. I cannot tell which color is positive or negative. If you plug in leds I can tell you if orange or yellow is positive based on which lead attaches to the large Base on the led if you attach another picture. Sometimes there is a + sign etched on the pc board where the positive power supply attaches, That will tell you if orange or yellow is positive. The black dot is the integrated circuit board covered in epoxy.
The LED lead going off the bottom of the picture looks like it is always on bypassing the IC.
The two leads on left side of picture must be the ones that strobe.
Jim Shander
KC9BOT
jshander is offline Find More Posts by jshander
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 17, 2012, 03:23 PM
Registered User
Waukesha, WI
Joined Dec 2006
259 Posts
Top right lead is battery supply lead in picture.
Bottom right lead in picture is constant on LED lead.
Jim
jshander is offline Find More Posts by jshander
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:07 AM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jshander View Post
Top right lead is battery supply lead in picture.
Bottom right lead in picture is constant on LED lead.
Jim
The supply lead is the one leaving the frame.



It hardly matters now though, because I went my own way. 3 series arrays in parallel. I did not use the original LEDs or circuit board.

I used red LEDs for interior lighting and added plexiglass to all the windows. I also sanded the exposed LEDs to make them show better in daylight.

Check it out:





arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:51 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
23,340 Posts
Looks great!
Kmot is online now Find More Posts by Kmot
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 02:11 PM
Registered User
catchthis's Avatar
USA, NY, Laurel
Joined Aug 2010
1,098 Posts
[QUOTE=arcwelder76;22233164]The supply lead is the one leaving the frame.





Looks like you cut a hatch in your pt, could you take a closeup of the material used, sort of looks like the hollow sheets we use building full scale boats to save weight.
catchthis is offline Find More Posts by catchthis
Last edited by catchthis; Jul 22, 2012 at 03:40 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 03:24 PM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
Uh, why quote my entire post with all of the photos, could you maybe edit the pics out? And don't you have one of these for sale? The hull and deck are fiberglass. Much of the rest of it is white thermoplastic and copper tube. Inside the boat is some balsa for stiffening and supporting the batteries, servo, rudders, and motor mounts. The hole was cut so I could counterweight the bow to stop it from planing ridiculously high.
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 03:40 PM
Registered User
catchthis's Avatar
USA, NY, Laurel
Joined Aug 2010
1,098 Posts
I wasnt sure if the top deck was solid fiberglass or if it was cored with some material.
catchthis is offline Find More Posts by catchthis
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 04:03 PM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
the deck and hull both, are made of fairly thin fiberglass. Some detail is cast in each. Like the spray rail, the torpedo mounting points, and the front cabin is part of the deck. The various details help it be rigid. The hull itself is very rigid, except the two large mostly flat areas in the middle of the model. I may add some resin and fiberglass on the inside. It's a nice model, I would have liked to do the LED work with the deck off, but it all comes as one big piece.

Here is a pic from Proboat showing the LEDs it comes with:



The white stickers on the deck are meant to be skylights. I only figured that out because I visited the Elco in Fall River MA.
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 05:23 PM
Registered User
catchthis's Avatar
USA, NY, Laurel
Joined Aug 2010
1,098 Posts
I had no idea they were sky lights, I thought they were vents. Learn something new every day!
catchthis is offline Find More Posts by catchthis
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 22, 2012, 07:45 PM
Certified All Positions
United States, MA, Boston
Joined Jul 2012
17 Posts
well, both really.
arcwelder76 is offline Find More Posts by arcwelder76
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold proboat pt 109 navy figures mrpeveler Boats (FS/W) 4 Jun 21, 2012 02:50 PM
Sold proboat pt 109 mrpeveler Boats (FS/W) 0 Jun 09, 2012 10:03 AM
Discussion Wanted Proboat PT-109 boat anyone want to sell one waverunners Scale Sailboats 3 Jun 06, 2012 07:36 PM
For Sale Proboat PT 109 NIB for sale catchthis Boats (FS/W) 0 Jun 04, 2012 08:48 PM
Discussion imex PT 109 vs proboat(old midwest)PT 109 aslvrfrostcsvt Scale Boats 15 May 22, 2008 10:32 PM