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Old Feb 22, 2012, 04:26 PM
TEAM HILLBILLY
Eagle34's Avatar
Pass Christian, MS
Joined Jan 2010
2,366 Posts
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Originally Posted by cmala View Post
Ok. I fixed it and put your parts in the mail today. 2 threaded M3-.5 and 2 with a 1/8" thru hole.

If anyone wants any, $10 shipped.
Coolio man! Sorry it was so much trouble for you.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 04:52 PM
customstandoffs
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USA, AL, Madison
Joined Dec 2007
8,547 Posts
It's all good. I only broke one tap and made about 10 worthless pieces

I did learn that I can set the digital display on the lathe to whatever number I want. That way I can turn a little, measure it, and then set the display to show the actual diameter. Then I don't have to measure again. Just turn it down till the display shows the finished diameter I want.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 05:33 PM
TEAM HILLBILLY
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Pass Christian, MS
Joined Jan 2010
2,366 Posts
Cool
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 05:53 PM
Fly it 'till it breaks.
Motojunk's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined May 2011
685 Posts
I'd say that landing gear mod is a bit much. Seems like you're making it way more complicated(and heavier) than it needs to be. I just used a single servo screw. Been flying fine for months now & I've even had to bend the landing gear a lot thanks to several unfortunate incidents that bent them outta shape. Never once has the wedge come loose & there isn't a drop of glue on it, just the one screw. A cowl screw would work fine too.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 06:07 PM
TEAM HILLBILLY
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Pass Christian, MS
Joined Jan 2010
2,366 Posts
That would work too. Nothing wrong with a little bling though.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 07:57 PM
Team Hillbilly
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United States, MD, Dundalk
Joined Feb 2009
3,492 Posts
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Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
But for those of you that have figured out Pop Tops on the Edge, how do you keep it flat at the top while it spins? ?
When you give the counter aileron are you bringing your elevator back to neutral? I actually spin the opposite way than you but it should still end up the same. I go top right with my right stick then come back to neutral elevator and left aileron. I've never got it to just keep flat spinning though. I'm just happy if it tumbles fast and ends up flat at the top.
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 08:26 PM
Gone Huckin'
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Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
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Originally Posted by tominator06 View Post
When you give the counter aileron are you bringing your elevator back to neutral? I actually spin the opposite way than you but it should still end up the same. I go top right with my right stick then come back to neutral elevator and left aileron. I've never got it to just keep flat spinning though. I'm just happy if it tumbles fast and ends up flat at the top.
Ah... I'm holding full down elevator. I'll try to go neutral. On my Slicks I can hold full down elevator and the momentum keeps it flat and rotating.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 02:19 AM
The Best or Nothing
RustyT3FT's Avatar
United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Feb 2008
238 Posts
Is anyone running Hitec Digital HS-5065MG or similar in their edge? I'm looking for a slop free/smoother upgrade from my 65MGs...
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 08:43 AM
Build, Fly, Crash, repeat
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United States, NC, Shelby
Joined Nov 2010
1,667 Posts
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Originally Posted by RustyT3FT View Post
Is anyone running Hitec Digital HS-5065MG or similar in their edge? I'm looking for a slop free/smoother upgrade from my 65MGs...
No way I would pay $46.99 each for a servo. Not in a $149 aircraft anyway. Forgive me when I say this, and no pun intended, but some of you go wayy overboard with this electronics stuff. As far as brand, how many volts going to servos, separate BEC v/s built-in. Besides, I thought the HS-65 was "the best" for this plane??

Like I say, no pun intended, I have only been in the hobby for almost 2 years. Maybe in the future I might look back and change my mind, but for now, I hold my opinion.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 09:41 AM
customstandoffs
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USA, AL, Madison
Joined Dec 2007
8,547 Posts
The setup of the plane is just as important as the design of the airframe.

HS 65 mg's are a good match for this plane. if you set it up incorrectly though you will get blowback and your flight performance will suffer.

I used to have the same attitude. My plane flys fine..etc but one day I flew a properly setup 104 slick and it was amazing compared to my 103 extra. I was at an event out of town and I didn't even fly my extras again after that. I took my plane home and spent a few hours setting up the servos again and it was a brand new plane. That made a believer out of me. You may not even realize it but if your plane isn't setup correctly it will fight you the whole time. I don't care if it is a 100cc gasser or a 48" electric.

Of course, your planes may all be setup correctly but servo choice, voltage, BEC capacity versus servo load, prop choice, servo linkage geometry, control surface deflection, all make a significant difference in how the toy plane flys
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 09:46 AM
Fly it 'till it breaks.
Motojunk's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined May 2011
685 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by big_poppa4904 View Post
No way I would pay $46.99 each for a servo. Not in a $149 aircraft anyway. Forgive me when I say this, and no pun intended, but some of you go wayy overboard with this electronics stuff. As far as brand, how many volts going to servos, separate BEC v/s built-in. Besides, I thought the HS-65 was "the best" for this plane??

Like I say, no pun intended, I have only been in the hobby for almost 2 years. Maybe in the future I might look back and change my mind, but for now, I hold my opinion.
To each his own. There's a difference in price between Ferarris and Hondas for a reason. Although not everyone needs the performance, some want it and the subtle difference in performance to some can be a night and day difference to others. I spent more on servos than I spent on my plane(4x Savox 0255mg) and I absolutely love it this way.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 09:54 AM
customstandoffs
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USA, AL, Madison
Joined Dec 2007
8,547 Posts
Since I got my 103" Extra 330 on sale and didn't have to pay shipping I spent more on servos than I did for the airframe.

About $900 in servos and I bought the cheap Hitec servos. It would be easy to spend $1300 on servos for a 100cc plane.

I guess I could have spent $200 and got servos with the same specs from HK. Call me crazy.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 09:58 AM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmala View Post
The setup of the plane is just as important as the design of the airframe.

HS 65 mg's are a good match for this plane. if you set it up incorrectly though you will get blowback and your flight performance will suffer.

I used to have the same attitude. My plane flys fine..etc but one day I flew a properly setup 104 slick and it was amazing compared to my 103 extra. I was at an event out of town and I didn't even fly my extras again after that. I took my plane home and spent a few hours setting up the servos again and it was a brand new plane. That made a believer out of me. You may not even realize it but if your plane isn't setup correctly it will fight you the whole time. I don't care if it is a 100cc gasser or a 48" electric.

Of course, your planes may all be setup correctly but servo choice, voltage, BEC capacity versus servo load, prop choice, servo linkage geometry, control surface deflection, all make a significant difference in how the toy plane flys
+1. After I buckled down and took the time to properly set up my Edge I noticed a dramatic improvement in the performance of my plane. And like he said... I really didn't know what I was missing until I did this.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 10:00 AM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
8,200 Posts
They wouldn't have been the same specs Craig Plus then you would have had to put Turnigy stickers on it
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 10:01 AM
Registered User
Surrey, B.C.
Joined Feb 2004
414 Posts
Just setting up the control linkage's but had a question. How tight should I have the metal standoff's on the control horn, should they be tight enough they don't move or should they be able to rotate ?
Also is there a reason why the manual says to use Thick CA to lock down the nut & not Loctite ?
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