Originally Posted by sidneylopsides

I had the same issue with pin 4, right pain!
Found a tiny 70mAh 1s, would that be enough to power a 20mW vtx for 10min or so?

Your question is almost a 'how long is piece of string' type question, but I'll have a go.
IF the vtx runs on 1s lipo, then IF the mW numbers mean power IN, then it will take about 7 mA , so a 75 mAh cell could run it for 7+ hours
BUT if they mean 25 mW of RF OUT, then it gets more 'wet finger in the air', I'd guess that it could draw about 30 odd mA, so even then the lipo would do 2 hours.
BUT all the above is a GUESS, working from minor clues you gave me.
Plug the brute in and watch for smoke ....
BTW there are super 70-150 mAh cells for indoor models, complete with plug.

Mike
humm did I get the maths correct hmm

Heh, sorry it was so vague!
It does run off a 1s, I tested it for that. The vtx suddenly stopped working... Was fine, then tried it the next day and seems to be dead. Didn't do anything different.
Ordered another anyway!

Originally Posted by Brandigan

I didn't misremember after all , but back here you weren't 100% about the CMOS being the same Omnivision one, you just thought it probably was and they share the same Graphics IC. So still a shame that the #18 never had the grey shift bug and several firmware revisions later the #16 still does apart from the 'work around'. As the firmware is reaching 'maturity', has the #16 developer suggested if the special case that causes it will ever be eliminated when in 'auto', or has the #18 developer got an explanation as to why it never had the problem when it is in 'auto'? Do they ever talk to each other after the 'split' back at #11?

I'm still "pretty sure", but not "100% sure"!

I have no other information if this will ever be fixed, other than by user selection of an alternate white balance setting that is not automatic. Many users do this already with the fluorescent setting, sometimes coupled with saturation/hue offsets. I don't have direct communication with the #18 developer, nor have any clue about who shares info with whom. I doubt that happens when they are competing for the same market share.

Originally Posted by IceWind

He guys, I was trying to update my camera but I only got FW up to v0.49.
The win GUI keeps complaining the my FW is outdated but when I do the check it only gets the two 0.49 and the v3 bootloader. It can get the files correctly as I've tried and re-installed v0.49 MOV.
I'm using the latest version of the nr16 GUI tool.

Any idea what might be?

Never mind kept searching and saw this: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23435054&postcount=11339

I was updating post #4 (with the FW downloads) today about the same time as your post. I added a note that v0.58 FW was taken down for repairs, and when fixed new FW will be replace it. I was an hour late with that info there, I guess.

Originally Posted by sidneylopsides

Heh, sorry it was so vague!
It does run off a 1s, I tested it for that. The vtx suddenly stopped working... Was fine, then tried it the next day and seems to be dead. Didn't do anything different.
Ordered another anyway!

If that lipo cell does not have an integral low voltage cutoff chip like the one in the camera, you may have drained the battery too low and starved it to death. Lipos can't be over-discharged and live very long like some other rechargeable chemistry cells.

Cold weather will also drastically reduce the power delivery ability of a lipo cell.

I never got chance to use that tiny Lipo, I was using the stock walkera Ladybird one for power, and thats still fine.
The vtx spec says it won't operate below 3.5v, so I'm going to try that and see how true it is, might work as a basic cut off.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

"]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23435054&postcount=11339

[/URL] I was updating post #4 (with the FW downloads) today about the same time as your post. I added a note that v0.58 FW was taken down for repairs, and when fixed new FW will be replace it. I was an hour late with that info there, I guess.[/QUOTE]

Ok, no prob.
Any chance you could share the file? I don't care about bugs.
I'm trying to set up my MicroQuad and at the moment the camera is no good as the video out is only in NTSC (I use PAL gear) and all I get is a distorted image and B&W.



Last thing, is it possible to grab the video out from a point inside the camera? Because of the size of the Quad it would be great to have an alternative to the USB connector. It was already hard to avoid the props touching it.

PS: If it wasn't asked before, having some battery indicator in the VideoOut out be great.

Originally Posted by IceWind

Last thing, is it possible to grab the video out from a point inside the camera? Because of the size of the Quad it would be great to have an alternative to the USB connector. It was already hard to avoid the props touching it.

Just make one like this... It plugs in to the USB and weighs almost nothing! It took me a try or three, but once I figured out were to solder to, it was easy. and if you get the connectors from ebay a few posts back its even easier!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=5349495

Originally Posted by IceWind

[/URL] ...
Any chance you could share the file? I don't care about bugs.
I'm trying to set up my MicroQuad and at the moment the camera is no good as the video out is only in NTSC (I use PAL gear) and all I get is a distorted image and B&W.
...
Last thing, is it possible to grab the video out from a point inside the camera? Because of the size of the Quad it would be great to have an alternative to the USB connector. It was already hard to avoid the props touching it.

PS: If it wasn't asked before, having some battery indicator in the VideoOut out be great.

PM me your email address and I'll send v0.58 FW.

Yes, video out signal is available on the back side of the USB connector where the pins are soldered to the circuit board. You will need pin #4 for the video out signal and pin #5 for the ground (unless you can pick up the ground plane nearby). These two pins are very small and very close together, so the soldering job will be intricate. Look here for the pin positions. You could also whittle away most of the rubber strain relief on the cable that protrudes out to angle the wires away from the props easier, or buy one of the 90 deg. right angle USB plugs with pin 4 wired (search for the post by Isoprop for the source) and make a new cable that way.

And as a bonus, the latest FW already has a low battery indicator in the video out signal. An alert pops up when battery power is getting low. In my tests indoors at room temperature, I got about another 1-1/2 min of power before the battery crapped out with the camera's internal battery powering the camera and recording at the same time. A weak battery or lower temperatures will reduce this alert time. There is also an alert when the memory card is... gives a pretty accurate 30 sec. advance warning.

well, even after turning on tv-out in the settings it doesn't work =/ starting to think it could be my monitor.

Originally Posted by baconflyer

well, even after turning on tv-out in the settings it doesn't work =/ starting to think it could be my monitor.

This may not help, but there is one thing you might check....

The USB video out cable that connects to the camera branches out into two connectors. One is for VIDEO and the other is for POWER.

It is possible to connect the VIDEO cable (the one with the yellow female RCA jack) to the POWER connector. (Both connectors are the same).. If you do that, you won't see any video out.. (I did manage to do this once by mistake and spent a bit of time trying to figure out why there was no video on my monitor ).

Originally Posted by jwt873

This may not help, but there is one thing you might check....

The USB video out cable that connects to the camera branches out into two connectors. One is for VIDEO and the other is for POWER.

It is possible to connect the VIDEO cable (the one with the yellow female RCA jack) to the POWER connector. (Both connectors are the same).. If you do that, you won't see any video out.. (I did manage to do this once by mistake and spent a bit of time trying to figure out why there was no video on my monitor ).

lol, no, I made sure to plug in the right ones.

Are you absolutely sure it is the V2 you have? you might have bought a V2 but is that what you received? just a thought

So I haven't updated my Configuration Assistant nor my #16 cams lately.

I run the assistant on a Mac and I note that Version 3.x.x.x says 'works on Linux and Windows (and Mac OS X once issue resolved)

Is the Mac issue resolved? or should I stick with the old version for now?

Hi
My cam is upgraded to the only available Firmware version V.49, but GUI does not show Pal format my screen display, clips my OSD display so that some of the numbers are missing on mys screen, what is the fix. Regards Goofa