Rafa, if you use aftermarket high amp quick charger then charging time wil be faster, also have in hands 2 or 3 spare batt will help you fly longer....Stock charger is always slow as all walker stock chargers.
One more thing: if you plan to fly longer than 2 packs you'd better to change with cooler motor because stock motor gets way hot after 1 batt pack.
When diasembling tail rotor be careful with tiny washers,it took me a day long for searching it on the floor....
Acrash

Originally Posted by Lompma

Daryyl
That is a total travel range of 18 degrees with the travel 50% up and 50% down. Could you give your self 11 degrees positive and then only 7 degrees negative. Or 10 deg pos and 8 deg neg. I know this would affect inverted flight but what if you dont do inverted. Would this be a viable solution for more pos pitch. Give a little to get little.
Marc

Hey Marc. It really still comes down to personal preference. However, if you attempt to do what you are saying, you will not have 0* at midstick which is what you want with all CP helis. Also, it is not about total range of degrees of pitch. What I am saying is if you have more than 9* pitch + or -, you get the interaction.

Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

A few battery questions:

As a learner, if I was more concerned with longer flight times and less about high C ratings, is there a better battery option?

Does this battery crossover, in terms of power ratings and size, to batteries that other Walkeras use? IOW, can knowledge of battery testing from other comparable helis transfer to this one?

I notice that the little stock charger takes a long, long time to charge. Without going full-bore stupid, what's the next step up in chargers?

Rafa

Try getting the NRG 1300mah 2s packs. They charge at the 5C rate so your charging time is about 1/5 of the slow Walkera charger and stock lipo. You can also try higher mah rated packs to increase flight time, but the trade off is added weight which takes away from the overall flight time. That is why there is so much trial and error when I am choosing different battery options for these Walkeras.

Here is my solution for the servo interaction problem. I have located longer servo arms that allow for the full pitch range and still leave enough servo travel to get full cyclic swash movement at top and bottom pitch. Now the heli climbs straight up and down at full pitch climbout. Before, the heli would veer off to the left during a climbout because the Pit servo ran out of travel and pulled the swash down and left. Here are a few pics and the arms alone are available here: http://www.wowhobbies.com/hm-cb180z-...clicservo.aspx
They are actually for a different heli mod, but they work perfectly. Also, this 4F200 has the 3s mod done to it including an upgraded tail servo. Very solid in flight, motor stays cool and I get just about the same flight time with the 850mah NRG lipo packs.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Hey Marc. It really still comes down to personal preference. However, if you attempt to do what you are saying, you will not have 0* at midstick which is what you want with all CP helis. Also, it is not about total range of degrees of pitch. What I am saying is if you have more than 9* pitch + or -, you get the interaction.



Try getting the NRG 1300mah 2s packs. They charge at the 5C rate so your charging time is about 1/5 of the slow Walkera charger and stock lipo. You can also try higher mah rated packs to increase flight time, but the trade off is added weight which takes away from the overall flight time. That is why there is so much trial and error when I am choosing different battery options for these Walkeras.

Here is my solution for the servo interaction problem. I have located longer servo arms that allow for the full pitch range and still leave enough servo travel to get full cyclic swash movement at top and bottom pitch. Now the heli climbs straight up and down at full pitch climbout. Before, the heli would veer off to the left during a climbout because the Pit servo ran out of travel and pulled the swash down and left. Here are a few pics and the arms alone are available here: http://www.wowhobbies.com/hm-cb180z-...clicservo.aspx
They are actually for a different heli mod, but they work perfectly. Also, this 4F200 has the 3s mod done to it including an upgraded tail servo. Very solid in flight, motor stays cool and I get just about the same flight time with the 850mah NRG lipo packs.

Daryll
So you are using longer servo horns? This I assume creates more range up and down. I thought the binding was in the head. You mean the servos are binding. I would like to do this also.
Marc

Originally Posted by Lompma

Daryll
So you are using longer servo horns? This I assume creates more range up and down. I thought the binding was in the head. You mean the servos are binding. I would like to do this also.
Marc

Yes the longer horns allow for full travel without binding. It is not the swash nor the head. The stock servo horns are just too short. The best part is, these arms also have a hole where the stock position is as well. So you could start with the stock hole and move it out once you are ready. You have to adjust the pitch curves so you get +/- 12 or so and not bind the swash. My adjusted pitch curves are now: Nor 36-41-50-63-75 and St1 & 2 25-37-50-63-75.
Those values give me +/-12* with no binding.

I notice even when changing to longer arm will gave more throw but how about tail rotor shaft /blade slider reach it limit?

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Yes the longer horns allow for full travel without binding. It is not the swash nor the head. The stock servo horns are just too short. The best part is, these arms also have a hole where the stock position is as well. So you could start with the stock hole and move it out once you are ready. You have to adjust the pitch curves so you get +/- 12 or so and not bind the swash. My adjusted pitch curves are now: Nor 36-41-50-63-75 and St1 & 2 25-37-50-63-75.
Those values give me +/-12* with no binding.

Just to clarify, one would need 3 horns, right?

Rafa

Yes you are correct. You will need 3 arms.

BTW, thanks for the kind words on the other thread. I am just here to help is all. I figure if there are more new flyers there will be more new stuff and more fun.

Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

I notice even when changing to longer arm will gave more throw but how about tail rotor shaft /blade slider reach it limit?

I already have max tail slider movement. The only thing I would like to do is be able to move the ball closer to the tail servo. That way I can turn up the gyro gain and get rid of the little tail movement I have transitioning from + to - pitch.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

BTW, thanks for the kind words on the other thread. I am just here to help is all. I figure if there are more new flyers there will be more new stuff and more fun.

No worries. I just figure that he has not been helped by you personally like many others of us have. I'm sure appreciative of all the help you've given, mostly indirectly, over the 'years'. For me it started with the CB100 and the 'Hot Little Hands' thread . . . ... .

Rafa

"My adjusted pitch curves are now: Nor 36-41-50-63-75 and St1 & 2 25-37-50-63-75.
Those values give me +/-12* with no binding."
Hey Darryl, i follows your setting and have sucessfully make some loops & roll high on the air! you're the man!haha! heli is way nervous when pumping....hard!
Acrash

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Yes the longer horns allow for full travel without binding. It is not the swash nor the head. The stock servo horns are just too short. The best part is, these arms also have a hole where the stock position is as well. So you could start with the stock hole and move it out once you are ready. You have to adjust the pitch curves so you get +/- 12 or so and not bind the swash. My adjusted pitch curves are now: Nor 36-41-50-63-75 and St1 & 2 25-37-50-63-75.
Those values give me +/-12* with no binding.

Daryll
That is strange that they would make this with short servo horns limiting the pitch! Would they have done that intentionally to limit pitch? So Daryll you are using the Gaui 200 blades and WOW extended servo horns. In your professional opinion would you say these are very worth while upgrades that people should do. I have one coming from John and would like to be prepared and have everything on hand. Also why is the 5th point on your pitch curve only at 75. Is that because of the binding issues? And just one last thing, what is your swash mix? 60%,60%60% or different on your pitch?
Thanks for all you great advice. You really are helping us newbs.
Marc

Originally Posted by Lompma

And just one last thing, what is your swash mix? 60%,60%60% or different on your pitch?
Thanks for all you great advice. You really are helping us newbs.
Marc

Does swash mix apply in 2801 mode like that? I don't have my notes in front of me, but I don't the remember swash mix in there, at least not like that. I'm a newb too, so let's hear it from someone else,

Rafa

There is no swashmix in 1 servo swash mode for 4F200 heli.

Originally Posted by Lompma

Daryll
That is strange that they would make this with short servo horns limiting the pitch! Would they have done that intentionally to limit pitch? So Daryll you are using the Gaui 200 blades and WOW extended servo horns. In your professional opinion would you say these are very worth while upgrades that people should do. I have one coming from John and would like to be prepared and have everything on hand. Also why is the 5th point on your pitch curve only at 75. Is that because of the binding issues? And just one last thing, what is your swash mix? 60%,60%60% or different on your pitch?
Thanks for all you great advice. You really are helping us newbs.
Marc

A is correct. You have to fly in 1 servo mode so there is no swash mix used. That adjustment is done with servo Ext on the Rx and Pitch Curve on the Tx. IMO, the servo arms are a must if you want some real punch and want to have full cyclic movement. The pitch curve top point is 75 because that is where my + pitch hits 12* and there is no interaction causing the swash to go uneven. If you keep the stock arms and want 12* pitch, then at full pitch you will notice when you give it left and right cyclic the swash goes left and back then right and back. This will cause the heli to tail stall a bit in a full pitch roll. Not good. Also, if you just go full pitch you will notice that the swash will go out of level (left or right, front or back, combination of all) due to the short arms. This will cause the heli to veer one direction or the other in a full pitch climbout or a full negative pitch drop. Also not good. Using the longer arms eliminates all of these issues. The blades are not a necessary upgrade as they are an economic solution to replacement blades. Plus in the case of a blade strike (or more commonly called a crash...LOL) the woodies will pretty much self destruct hopefully keeping more expensive parts from damage (i.e., blade grips, grip shaft, mainshaft, etc.) In addition, they do weigh over 2g lighter which helps performance and flight times.

If you have any questions feel free to pm me anytime.

Hi,

Can anyone tell me diameter of the main shaft ?

thanks