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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Thanks, I'm wondering if a NTM 35-30 would fit in there...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16230
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GP73 View Post
Thanks, I'm wondering if a NTM 35-30 would fit in there...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16230
The stock prop is a 12x6. Here are the specs for the motor you listed for that prop size on 3s. Its only 26A. Our ESC is 40A I believe. So it should be fine in that regard. Will it have the same power though?

NTM 35-30 12x6 - 11.1v - 266w - 26A UNFORTUNATELY, that motor is back ordered. Also, it is a 3 hole bolt pattern on back. So what is the hole pattern on the front? 3 holes? No holes?

The motor below from HK almost matches ours except for the motor mount and shaft. The Amps are only 1 off, so most likely it will be a great substitute. Should you or I order it? LOL.


D4023-850 12x6 11.1v 27A
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
The stock prop is a 12x6. Here are the specs for the motor you listed for that prop size on 3s. Its only 26A. Our ESC is 40A I believe. So it should be fine in that regard. Will it have the same power though?

NTM 35-30 12x6 - 11.1v - 266w - 26A UNFORTUNATELY, that motor is back ordered. Also, it is a 3 hole bolt pattern on back. So what is the hole pattern on the front? 3 holes? No holes?

The motor below from HK almost matches ours except for the motor mount and shaft. The Amps are only 1 off, so most likely it will be a great substitute. Should you or I order it? LOL.


D4023-850 12x6 11.1v 27A
The NTM might run a little hot with a 12x6 according to ecalc, but it should be fine as long as you don't fly WOT most of the time:

http://ecalc.ch/motorcalc_e.htm?ecal...tch=6&blades=2

The front has a 4 holes pattern, so mounting should be ok, I already have one of these motors, once I get the plane I'll verify if it's a drop in.

As for the other motor, looks good too, go ahead and order one.

BTW, the groove in the shaft is for a probably for a retaining clip, you might have lost it when the original shaft snapped.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GP73 View Post
The NTM might run a little hot with a 12x6 according to ecalc, but it should be fine as long as you don't fly WOT most of the time:

http://ecalc.ch/motorcalc_e.htm?ecal...tch=6&blades=2

The front has a 4 holes pattern, so mounting should be ok, I already have one of these motors, once I get the plane I'll verify if it's a drop in.

As for the other motor, looks good too, go ahead and order one.

BTW, the groove in the shaft is for a probably for a retaining clip, you might have lost it when the original shaft snapped.
I didn't even think of that! Duh me! That makes sense since the bell of the outrunner can now slide backwards. I think I probably shouldn't have nosed this guy in. LOL.

The 4 hole pattern is great news. Do you have an extra? I'll buy it from you if you do. I'd prefer to go to a more traditional outrunner anyways.

As for it running too hot... I'll take a look at your moto calc, but I'm not sure why it would run hot based on the numbers HK gave, unless of course you have first hand knowledge and know that HK's info is wrong?
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:52 PM
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The motor you suggested is actually in stock in the USA. I just ordered one. Its a 4mm shaft, so it should be perfect.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
I didn't even think of that! Duh me! That makes sense since the bell of the outrunner can now slide backwards. I think I probably shouldn't have nosed this guy in. LOL.

The 4 hole pattern is great news. Do you have an extra? I'll buy it from you if you do. I'd prefer to go to a more traditional outrunner anyways.

As for it running too hot... I'll take a look at your moto calc, but I'm not sure why it would run hot based on the numbers HK gave, unless of course you have first hand knowledge and know that HK's info is wrong?
Sorry, only got one.

According to eCalc it might run hot, I don't have any numbers.

But given the fact that with this model you wouldn't be flying WOT all the time the NTM should be fine (if anything a little inefficient).

Check out the link to eCalc for all the data, you need to plug in the numbers for your battery.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Skyline, right thrust and down thrust are what you normally see on a model. I would guess that is the way it is suppose to be on this model.If you put the mount on backwards you would get up and left. Not a good thing.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:04 PM
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They used the same motor mount as their FW-190:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post18231106
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:05 PM
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Skyline, right thrust and down thrust are what you normally see on a model. I would guess that is the way it is suppose to be on this model.If you put the mount on backwards you would get up and left. Not a good thing.
Thanks for confirming what I was thinking. But I'm still not positive that this had any to begin with though. I might have created up thrust with the crash, then dismantling the motor and mount, I might have inadvertently put it together backwards giving me an artificial down thrust. LOL. But yes, right and down is ideal to cancel out the torque of the prop and to get the plane to fly level. It just seems that my down right thrust is a little excessive. So if someone could do some distance measurements between the lip of the cowl and the front of the dummy radial engine, that would be awesome!
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:45 PM
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I have been thinking for those that want to remove the wings but don't want to be held down by the single servo in the fuselage for the flaps. This plane being only 3lbs could definitely get away with some cheap tower pro 9 g servos for the flaps.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GP73 View Post
They used the same motor mount as their FW-190:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post18231106
That was a great read over there. I'm glad the beaver doesn't have those plagued retracts that are in the fw190.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 08:38 AM
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That was a great read over there. I'm glad the beaver doesn't have those plagued retracts that are in the fw190.
Agreed.... the select scale planes are nice.... but Quality and design seems to fall short in some areas.

Skyline - did you find and build issues like some folks here have found - screw mounts buried on fuse that spin (not glued well)?

Love this bird..... your video about has me convinced to pull the trigger.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
I have been thinking for those that want to remove the wings but don't want to be held down by the single servo in the fuselage for the flaps. This plane being only 3lbs could definitely get away with some cheap tower pro 9 g servos for the flaps.
I found that I can pull the wings out, leave the servo leads connected, and lie the wings across the wing strut and horizontal stabs, which makes it much easier to transport. I still have to install and adjust the flap push-rods, but I'm fine with that...It's much better than having to fish those leads down AND install the flap push-rods every time I want to bring it to the field.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the PM Skyline......................all good mate.

Cheers

Brent
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kydawg1 View Post
Agreed.... the select scale planes are nice.... but Quality and design seems to fall short in some areas.

Skyline - did you find and build issues like some folks here have found - screw mounts buried on fuse that spin (not glued well)?

Love this bird..... your video about has me convinced to pull the trigger.
No, not at all. The mounts are all performing great. None of them have spun, pulled out or fell inside. I'm wondering if someone might have been pushing with excessive force with their screwdriver while not being lined up on the hole.
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