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Old Apr 01, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dionysus View Post
Thanks guys! Glad I could help with the paint Peter, good luck on your paint project, you will do fine.

Been flying my new set up all weekend and it is awesome, the fan runs so smooth now, the old motor was out of balance and had bad bearings. I'm now running a Typhoon 700-68-1200kv motor, Castle Creations Phoenix Ice 100 ESC on 8s 5000mAh packs. I downloaded the flight data and on takeoff it was producing 2830 Watts. According to the Castle Link data, when I throttled back after take off I was at 2000 watts and about 60amps for cruse, that is where I had the throttle on the pass in the video. Of course again, when you have people video tape your flying, you get mixed results, so out of all the video only one pass was usable!

I definitely feel the extra batteries on landing, takes more power when you get the nose up on final approach.

http://youtu.be/QvgbY2-PZrc
What a magic flying facility! I can see now, why you placed that air brake on the belly, Joe.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 05:00 PM
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Good screen shot here, the mighty F-100F taxis by a lowly slimer! Look at how proud she is next to that noisy slime maker! lol! You can actually see the pilot looking over in disgust!
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Looks like those stock "V2" HTG wheels are holding up just fine as opposed tot he initial batch that were reported to explode on takeoffs . Are they wearing much?

You have something a lot more special than a foamie ARF on your hands. I ponied up for a better ESC last month as I wanted to option to go upwards to 3kw on power - after seeing this one I think I'm pretty happy to go there. I've finished a few big work projects and the taxes are done so it's time to get back to the Hun. Hopefully in a few days a good solid build session can get some progress logged on my "silver" Hun.

Thanks again for the new video. I had to watch the latest vid several times just to appreciate the look and sound your modified Hun presents with at the flying field.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 04:35 AM
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You're welcome Eddie, looking forward to you getting back on your build.

Not sure what version wheels I have, but they are working great, they have a metal bushing, not sure if all of them had that. In the video they made some noise, but I've since lubricated them and they sound better now. Anyway they are holding up just fine, I flew my HUN 11 times just this weekend!

Quote:
What a magic flying facility! I can see now, why you placed that air brake on the belly, Joe.
Thanks Joe, hey were you the guy that was all negative about my air brake? I'll have to look back at the posts to see! Anyway as you can see it works beautifully, wouldn't build a HUN without one now.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
I decided to mod the front landing gear area, to allow a pushrod steering system. But also to be much stronger than the pretty weak stock assembly. (just a few small thin ply plates as it comes).

.
Peter, love the nose gear mod, where did you get the nose retract? I've never seen that version.

Looking forward to you continued progress!
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 09:17 AM
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That is a HobbyKing HK-314 with the other base plate fitted. That allows it to mount to a flat plate - which needs to be deeper in a plane - but also then allows the steering arm and 'offset control arm' you need for a pushrod system to have the space to rotate down the side of the retract as it folds down.

I found a bit of a 'nuisance area' ahead of the retract box, where the steering servo is going. The fuselage has a void there, so it is making the servo mounting more of a nuisance than if it was all solid foam. But it will still all be fine - just a bit more thought and effort than expected.

I figured I will try a HXT900 for the steering, and its size (height) does not take it into the ducting area.
But I don't think I have an alloy arm and 'bit' for the control arm coming off that, lying around. So I need to find a good source of some alloy arm and rod that I can make my 'standard pushrod setup' choice. On 4 others I have done I used the bits from steerable nosegear sets, that I don't use the retract from, but wasting that retract is an expensive way to get the arm/rod stuff!

Hopefully I will get it all completed over the next few days.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Here are a couple of quick shots of my F-100. Not quite finished yet. Needs decals and weathering. No major mods other than the canopy and nose inlet upgrade from parkflyer plastic.

Jeremy
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jpbrimmer View Post
Here are a couple of quick shots of my F-100. Not quite finished yet. Needs decals and weathering. No major mods other than the canopy and nose inlet upgrade from parkflyer plastic.

Jeremy
Noooooooo! That was "my" paint job! Oh well, maybe I'll just have to go with it anyway, or go with a "fantasy what-if" F-100 scheme based on some random 1950's era scheme. I really like that scheme and I'm sure your flying buddies will really say "WOW" when they see it. You still need white stripes over the silver in a couple spots, but you probably know that already (to be spot on scale at least, but it sure looks sharp, as-is).

Get some video of that thing in flight for us!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionysus View Post
You're welcome Eddie, looking forward to you getting back on your build.

Not sure what version wheels I have, but they are working great, they have a metal bushing, not sure if all of them had that. In the video they made some noise, but I've since lubricated them and they sound better now. Anyway they are holding up just fine, I flew my HUN 11 times just this weekend!
Sweet, glad to see it's holding up so well! I have to order some battery packs, I have everything else standing by to put said F-100 into the air - or in this case, I'll just be excited to get her off the building board. This thing needs to get "finished". I can work on the nice little details, as I fly it and as time allows, like you've done.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 02:30 PM
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Sorry Eddie. Just about every edf I have is camo so I went with this. I've been in love with this scheme ever since I saw J Morgan's scratch build several years ago.

I'm in a rush to get this ready for SEFF so I skipped filling in the panel lines and glass. I was hoping to cheat and go with the factory silver paint but I can't get any other paint to stick to it well enough to mask over. The stripes on the tail came out pretty rough because the masking pulled most of the white paint off and I had to touch it up by hand. That's why I skipped the white stripes on the nose. I may go back and do a repaint after SEFF when I have more time.

I haven't been able to maiden yet. I'm going to spend this week looking back through this thread for CG, throws, etc.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Oh I was just kidding, as you know Your handy work looks great and will be fun to watch streaking across the sky at full clip, no doubt about it. Hope you have fun at the "show"! I think it's great we are all having so much fun and are getting creative with this foam kit. What a great jumping off point - it can be quick and easy or really detailed and amazing, or anything in between we are seeing a lot of great ideas here. I appreciate everyone's talents, it's been motivating for me as I've been in the throws of a big old "laborious" international work trip and am finally almost ready to "play" with this F-100 again myself.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 08:24 AM
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More nose-gear work.....

1) Steering servo area cut out
2) Ply mount for the servo
3) Ply mount glued in
4) Servo and retract in to check alignments etc
5) Retract control horn and home-made 'pushrod block'
Approx 7mm square piece of 3mm alloy, with two 2mm holes for the control arm
and the pushrod clevis
6,7,8) Control arm close ups
9) Retract screwed in and motions checked.

The home-made alloy block is actually better than the usual steering arms sets that give a plastic piece for that, so I am happy that I will do that on all of them from now on. The block needs to be able to rotate on the control arm shaft during steering, whilst allowing the clevis to pivot also - just during retraction.
The steering arm is a standard 3mm collared arm, cut down and drilled for the long 2mm 'control arm' bolt. The block gets aligned along that bolt during steering servo and retraction testing, then the nuts used above and below it are locktited once that is all aligned. (eg in 7th pic)

The hole for the clevis has to be dead in-line with the trunion pivot (brass bush) at 90deg (to the side of it) so that the pushrod does not cause the landing gear leg to rotate at all during retract operation. It will stay dead straight at all times. I use a separate channel for the steering servo and mix the steeering to the gear switch, thus the instant you flip the gear switch the steering cannot turn anymore. Thus it stays dead straight into the retraction process, plus can never be turned whilst stowed away.

The retract box had to have some of the side cut away, to allow the clevis a wide enough arc of movement. You would normally make a larger box really - it would need about 3mm more width per side to fit it and be symmetrical still. But seeing I used the F-100 retract opening width as it came, the box itself had to have that bit cut-away. If I did it again I would do the wider box!! More out to those moulding lines you can see in the plane there. (eg seen in Pic 9)

There will be a cover that runs from ahead of the steering servo, back to the cheater hole - just allowing the leg and steering arm to have opening clearance.
With a fair bit more effort, you could add gear doors and run them off a sequencer - with the mains having doors then also. Maybe one day I will....

The HK-314 retract has a 3mm hole, which fits the stock supplied stub fine. At the top end of it I grind a "colllar" into it (a 2mm wide, 0.5mm deep, ring). This is so you can use two grub screws in the trunion bushes to 'mildly clamp' the peg and thus it can rotate freely for the steering, whilst unable to move up or down in the trunion. You locktite the grub screws in so they stay positioned correctly for that.
I usually drill out the trunions to 4mm and use 4mm piano wire stubs, but for this case I decided to leave it at 3mm and then I can upgrade it later, after the 3mm eventually wear a bit of slop into the trunion.
.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Cool mod Peter, thanks for posting that, should work great. Might try that on the next one!
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
More nose-gear work.....

1) Steering servo area cut out
2) Ply mount for the servo
3) Ply mount glued in
4) Servo and retract in to check alignments etc
5) Retract control horn and home-made 'pushrod block'
Approx 7mm square piece of 3mm alloy, with two 2mm holes for the control arm
and the pushrod clevis
6,7,8) Control arm close ups
9) Retract screwed in and motions checked.

The home-made alloy block is actually better than the usual steering arms sets that give a plastic piece for that, so I am happy that I will do that on all of them from now on. The block needs to be able to rotate on the control arm shaft during steering, whilst allowing the clevis to pivot also - just during retraction.
The steering arm is a standard 3mm collared arm, cut down and drilled for the long 2mm 'control arm' bolt. The block gets aligned along that bolt during steering servo and retraction testing, then the nuts used above and below it are locktited once that is all aligned. (eg in 7th pic)

The hole for the clevis has to be dead in-line with the trunion pivot (brass bush) at 90deg (to the side of it) so that the pushrod does not cause the landing gear leg to rotate at all during retract operation. It will stay dead straight at all times. I use a separate channel for the steering servo and mix the steeering to the gear switch, thus the instant you flip the gear switch the steering cannot turn anymore. Thus it stays dead straight into the retraction process, plus can never be turned whilst stowed away.

The retract box had to have some of the side cut away, to allow the clevis a wide enough arc of movement. You would normally make a larger box really - it would need about 3mm more width per side to fit it and be symmetrical still. But seeing I used the F-100 retract opening width as it came, the box itself had to have that bit cut-away. If I did it again I would do the wider box!! More out to those moulding lines you can see in the plane there. (eg seen in Pic 9)

There will be a cover that runs from ahead of the steering servo, back to the cheater hole - just allowing the leg and steering arm to have opening clearance.
With a fair bit more effort, you could add gear doors and run them off a sequencer - with the mains having doors then also. Maybe one day I will....

The HK-314 retract has a 3mm hole, which fits the stock supplied stub fine. At the top end of it I grind a "colllar" into it (a 2mm wide, 0.5mm deep, ring). This is so you can use two grub screws in the trunion bushes to 'mildly clamp' the peg and thus it can rotate freely for the steering, whilst unable to move up or down in the trunion. You locktite the grub screws in so they stay positioned correctly for that.
I usually drill out the trunions to 4mm and use 4mm piano wire stubs, but for this case I decided to leave it at 3mm and then I can upgrade it later, after the 3mm eventually wear a bit of slop into the trunion.
.
Pete, you'll better replace that nose gear servo to good MG one, I don't think its good enough even for the sealed runway, Joe.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 08:22 PM
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Joined Apr 2008
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Lipo Size/Weight

Hey Guys

I've got the epo version from HK on its way and just starting to thing about the power system and lipos.

I'm probably gonna order a CS 12 blade EDF and HK outrunner but was just wondering what the best size/weight 6S lipos are for these F-100's without having to add weight to either end of the airframe!!

There's a lot of variety in weight (even just from HK) in the 4A to 5A 6S lipo range!!!!

Just to throw another curve ball in, I'm also undecided yet wether to install retracts/landing gear as I primarily fly off grass (though I probably will eventually even if it is just for the 'look').

These are the one's I were considering at this stage:

Zippy 4500MAH 45C (789gm)

Zippy Compact 4500MAH 35C (696gm)

NanoTech 4500MAH 35-70C (676gm)

Cheers for any assistance!!!
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Joined Nov 2006
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Those all seem a bit small.
I have 5800's to use in mine
Or a pair of 3000's too that I might use.
But I have not weighed and balanced it all out yet.
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