Originally Posted by udogigahertz

The last is the case ...... no switch works anymore!

Udo

Udo, did you change to English/American formats? I have an English version and didn't get it to work the first time. After I changed to English formats it did work!

I have only made one flight since my upgrade and I know that my rates increased when I flipped the switch for high rates. I haven't checked any other models. I didn't upgrade that RX as of yet. I will try to do that tonight and see if this makes any difference with the switch for dual rates on this model.

Diggs

OK, I have already posted this in another thread but there is little action in it so I'll post here too. I cannot be the only one that has field-charged with the battery in the Tx

"""I have been charging my Aurora at the field with the battery in the Tx for a few months now ( yes I now know, bad bad, don't do it!! ) and I have now smoked it

Since warranty wont cover it I opened it up and looked it over, it looks similar to the reverse polarity damage up top. Not as much soot on the PCB but EC1 is definitely toasted... It was shorted but de-soldering it (will get new one later) does not fix the issue, the Aurora is still dead. Got a hint to look at the DC/DC converter below it (IC3). It is marked F150 does anyone know this type of converter?"""

The picture of the burnt component I am referring to is here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=2949878

guantamanera has kindly supplied info on the Capacitor, but as said, if anyone knows anything about the DC/DC at IC3 please let me know.

Originally Posted by guantamanera

I burnt my too, but I have not replaced the burn capacitor yet. I just unshorted it by lifting the metal plate, and it works but I'll replace it as soon as the festivities pass and I have some time. I contacted hitec and the here is what they told me.

Tantalum capacitor (16V, 47uF, 20%).

Originally Posted by BarnOwl

Udo, did you change to English/American formats? I have an English version and didn't get it to work the first time. After I changed to English formats it did work!

Yes, of course, I changed my computer to "English - USA" before the update. I downgraded the software ..... no result. My switches are out of order, also with different or new models.

I think, that my problem has nothing to do with the update-process.

Udo

Originally Posted by udogigahertz

Yes, of course, I changed my computer to "English - USA" before the update. I downgraded the software ..... no result. My switches are out of order, also with different or new models.

I think, that my problem has nothing to do with the update-process.

Udo

Last time you have entered the service menu to get the touch screen working again, you have reset the whole memory of the radio, or better you have reset and deprogrammed the model you were on!
this is the cause that your switch is not working!
It happened to me when I was looking the potential deadband issue with a friend of mine Aurora's...
The model was totally deprogrammed and reset as a new model with 4 channel only.... nor switch nor slides was working more, if you saved the model you can simply reload to radio with hpp22---

I hope it can help!

Originally Posted by TheGreatBoo

OK, I have already posted this in another thread but there is little action in it so I'll post here too. I cannot be the only one that has field-charged with the battery in the Tx

"""[I]I have been charging my Aurora at the field with the battery in the Tx for a few months now ( yes I now know, bad bad, don't do it!! ) and I have now smoked it

Just out of curiosity what charge rate were you charging at.
How many MAH were you putting into the tx while charging.
There shouldn't be any problem charging the tx from a 12 volt power source if your using the correct charger and not trying to charge too fast.
I don't think nickle metal halide batteries like a charge much over 1C
I charge my A9 sometimes at 300 mah for a short period, but that is as high as I would want to charge the tx battery inside the transmitter.
If the transmitter is discharged to 40 percent or more, I will charge the tx at 80 to 120 mah.
The sirius form charger will let you charge from a 12 volt power source. It is not a peak detecting charger so you can charge through the A9 charge plug.

Originally Posted by zero2444

Just out of curiosity what charge rate were you charging at.
How many MAH were you putting into the tx while charging.
There shouldn't be any problem charging the tx from a 12 volt power source if your using the correct charger and not trying to charge too fast.
I don't think nickle metal halide batteries like a charge much over 1C
I charge my A9 sometimes at 300 mah for a short period, but that is as high as I would want to charge the tx battery inside the transmitter.
If the transmitter is discharged to 40 percent or more, I will charge the tx at 80 to 120 mah.
The sirius form charger will let you charge from a 12 volt power source. It is not a peak detecting charger so you can charge through the A9 charge plug.

Yep I thought so too. I use the stock battery and have been using the default "charge NiMh" on my Hyperion charger, it is a 120mA charge. I know it is above Hitec recommendation but I still thought I could get away with it. Obviously not. If I were you I would stop using the 300mA charge, not trying to tell you what to do, just friendly advice. I have certainly learnt my lesson, the charge port is for the wall charger only... At the field I will remove the battery from the Tx to charge it.

Don't know how many mAh's I managed to put into it that last time when when I finally smoked it, the charger just blinked an error message on Output Voltage or something like that I believe the Aurora was at about 50% when I started charging.

Originally Posted by TheGreatBoo

Yep I thought so too. I use the stock battery and have been using the default "charge NiMh" on my Hyperion charger, it is a 120mA charge.

Really just a 120ma. Is the Hyperion charger your using a peak detection type charger.
What is the Hitec recommendation for maximum charge rate.
Ok maybe I should drop the rate, I certainly don't want to smoke my A9.

I thought the diode would stop a peak detection from working correctly?

Originally Posted by zero2444

Really just a 120ma. Is the Hyperion charger your using a peak detection type charger.
What is the Hitec recommendation for maximum charge rate.
Ok maybe I should drop the rate, I certainly don't want to smoke my A9.

Originally Posted by going4speed

I thought the diode would stop a peak detection from working correctly?

Yes that is correct......that is why I was asking if the Hyperion charger he used was a peak detecting charger. It might explain why he smoked his A9.
If he was charging at 120ma that in itself wouldn't smoke the board unless he overcharged the pack.
If I recall the charger that comes with the A9 charges at 80ma.

Originally Posted by Bigster

Sorry, no. To turn off the tx twenty times between packs to silence the alarm for the one time to remind me to shut it off at the end of the day isn't a feature.

I admitted I see what it's doing, but if you think about it, the rx must be sending the last couple of frames of telemetry data after the battery is pulled. How else can it sense a battery voltage of 0 and still be able to transmit the data? I've also had a couple of cases where the last packet the tx receives is still above the cutoff, because the alarm doesn't go off when I disconnect. Are you saying that's deliberate?

I like the low voltage alarm, don't get me wrong, but the corner case of power shutoff time should be handled more gracefully.

I've witness no such squealing as you put it when unplugging the battery. Is this from the module or the radio? I bet it's the module... Have you changed the module warning from default?

Originally Posted by udogigahertz

I have noticed a remarkable problem after the last update to 1.07, and 2.0: My switches are out of order! I noticed this after flights yesterday, when I wanted to switch on the lights - no function! Ad home I tested it and found out, that the lights are on, if I give full left aileron! How could that be? Before the update everything worked fine.

I tested all the other switches - no function either!

Now I switch my lights on and off with a slider - that works. What happened? Do you have the same problem?

Udo

Switch assignment is a feature in the service menu. Note to prevent from losing data if you do go into this menu (again, not advised) then to get out you should go to the custom menu where all the service icons will be and hit reset on the top. Don't hit exit or you will lose the data from that model.

Originally Posted by going4speed

I thought the diode would stop a peak detection from working correctly?

That is correct. If you want to peak charge you should remove the battery.


Mike.

All,

First I wanted to thank the folks at HiTec for outstanding customer service.

Mike Mayberry and Brendan Lugo, were awesome in taking care of a new Hitec customer. They did everything within their power to resolve my issues as fast as possible and Mike went above and beyond the call of duty to help me out.

It is sad but true that customer service like this is a thing of the past.
Although I had issues that resulted in me waiting about a week to play with my new toy folks were there to assist and were friendly and curtious.

Secondly, my HP22 programmer came in today and I upgraded without issue as far as I know of.

I do not have any fancy settings yet as I am still learning but on one bird I have FLAPCON set and that setting remains intact and works as it should.

The order in which I upgraded was:
the HP22 Programmer 1st
The TX second
The TX Module (I later remember it was not needed)
then the RX's themselves.

So far I see now issues, the process was fairly smooth and I had no difficulty with the procedure, I can see where the software may be a bit intimidating for a person that does not work with computers for a living but I give it a "A"

That is my experience, I hope it helps someone.

I debated, read, asked questions, read some more and then read more and I am very glad I decided to move to Hitec instead of Sticking with "the other guys" who to the best of my knowledge still have not made any info available about their "new" product.

Ok I'm done. (getting off soap box) - Thanks again guys.

-S-

Yeah, those Hitec folks are TOP NOTCH!

Originally Posted by -S-

All,

First I wanted to thank the folks at HiTec for outstanding customer service.

Mike Mayberry and Brendan Lugo, were awesome in taking care of a new Hitec customer. They did everything within their power to resolve my issues as fast as possible and Mike went above and beyond the call of duty to help me out.

It is sad but true that customer service like this is a thing of the past.
Although I had issues that resulted in me waiting about a week to play with my new toy folks were there to assist and were friendly and curtious.

Secondly, my HP22 programmer came in today and I upgraded without issue as far as I know of.

I do not have any fancy settings yet as I am still learning but on one bird I have FLAPCON set and that setting remains intact and works as it should.

The order in which I upgraded was:
the HP22 Programmer 1st
The TX second
The TX Module (I later remember it was not needed)
then the RX's themselves.

So far I see now issues, the process was fairly smooth and I had no difficulty with the procedure, I can see where the software may be a bit intimidating for a person that does not work with computers for a living but I give it a "A"

That is my experience, I hope it helps someone.

I debated, read, asked questions, read some more and then read more and I am very glad I decided to move to Hitec instead of Sticking with "the other guys" who to the best of my knowledge still have not made any info available about their "new" product.

Ok I'm done. (getting off soap box) - Thanks again guys.

-S-

Well I upgraded my firmware the other day and really hadn't taken the time to poke around to see what was new. Well, this may not be a new feature, but I located the screen calibration settings. I went into it and calibrated my screen and I can certainly tell a difference. I thought my fat fingers were always the problem, but after doing that calibration I can touch the little "exit" door on the top right of the screen and it works every time. Before I had to poke around or use a stylus to get it to exit back to the previous screen. It is way more responsive to my touch now.

Also, YAY to silence. I didn't think I would use this, but muted the beep just to try it and I really like it.

Now on the battery level alarm. I have a foamy that doesn't use the SPC that I tried this on. I upgraded its RX and then unhooked the data cable, powered it back up and confirmed all surfaces and switches still worked, and they do. So unplugged it and went into the battery/sensor section to play with the alarm. Even though it doesn't have the SPC connection, I wanted to see this menu and get familiar with it. So, with the model unplugged and no power, as soon as I exceeded 5v (The last reading it received) on the low voltage alarm, it sounded. So I think this is what going4speed was talking about. I then power cycled the TX and realized you can't get into that section without power to the RX Not a big fan of that. So I am going to wait and play with it more on a model that utilizes the SPC later and see if I get any different behavior on the alarm. It would be nice to be able to set this value without having a connection to the RX. (Hint for future software releases)

So far, I guess I can keep my "fanboy" label I have had no negative results from the upgrade and like the improvements I have tried.

Diggs

Agreed on the 'can't set it without rx power' annoying yet I think I understand why they did it...perhaps that way it can calibrate with the receiver?

Originally Posted by Diggs

Well I upgraded my firmware the other day and really hadn't taken the time to poke around to see what was new. Well, this may not be a new feature, but I located the screen calibration settings. I went into it and calibrated my screen and I can certainly tell a difference. I thought my fat fingers were always the problem, but after doing that calibration I can touch the little "exit" door on the top right of the screen and it works every time. Before I had to poke around or use a stylus to get it to exit back to the previous screen. It is way more responsive to my touch now.

Also, YAY to silence. I didn't think I would use this, but muted the beep just to try it and I really like it.

Now on the battery level alarm. I have a foamy that doesn't use the SPC that I tried this on. I upgraded its RX and then unhooked the data cable, powered it back up and confirmed all surfaces and switches still worked, and they do. So unplugged it and went into the battery/sensor section to play with the alarm. Even though it doesn't have the SPC connection, I wanted to see this menu and get familiar with it. So, with the model unplugged and no power, as soon as I exceeded 5v (The last reading it received) on the low voltage alarm, it sounded. So I think this is what going4speed was talking about. I then power cycled the TX and realized you can't get into that section without power to the RX Not a big fan of that. So I am going to wait and play with it more on a model that utilizes the SPC later and see if I get any different behavior on the alarm. It would be nice to be able to set this value without having a connection to the RX. (Hint for future software releases)

So far, I guess I can keep my "fanboy" label I have had no negative results from the upgrade and like the improvements I have tried.

Diggs