wood frame, use a fat marker to stain all the wood black (don't like plain wood colour). flies great, very stable and doesn't need much room to fly around.

specs:

12.5" motor to motor, AUW 596g (1000mah 3s).
props 8x3/8
motors 1100kv
hobby king 8/10A SS esc's
quadrino basic board.

Originally Posted by maxmus

Hi, was told I should post here.
My intro thread is here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1722381

Maxmus-

Your tri looks like it flies really well- good job.

I'm a little worried about your press-on props (or at least they look like they just press on). You lose a prop while you're flying and it's arga-warga for the tri, especially at the altitudes you fly.

You should probably consider prop adapters, or it looks like maybe you have room to use a wheel collar on that motor shaft. Anything to secure those props.

Rick

Hi. Since those photos the gws props were having problems. Ie: flying apart.

I've been using hk 8x4 cw ccw props with prop adaptors.

How much does it weigh?

Auw is about 28-30oz.

My X-Copter with DIY Alu Frame:

X-COPTER One @ MC-Ronse (8 min 22 sec)

X-Copter Test Flight One. (4 min 18 sec)

You might want to put some protection over the board. When you make an unintended reversed landing your board will be wiped out, its the first thing that hits the ground.

This is my first quad. Nothing hand made, but built from parts purchased seperate if that counts.

Naza M GPS
Turnigy Talon V2
Turnigy Plush 30a
Turnigy 1450KV
Mad Dog 2200 35c x2
Quadframe 155mm landing legs
Quadframe 2 axis gimbal
GOPRO Hero2
Spektrum DX7S
Spektrum AR6210

Very stable even in high winds, great features on the FC

Originally Posted by Sonicg

You might want to put some protection over the board. When you make an unintended reversed landing your board will be wiped out, its the first thing that hits the ground.

I did some cover of an old plastic box

X525 center plate and landing gear
1/2" wood arms and landing legs
Turnigy 3536 1000kv motors
10" Gemfan props
FlyHyper 30a ESCs (same exact thing as HK F-30a's) flashed with SimonK firmware
KK2.0 board
Chinese take-out electronics canopy
custom built/soldered power distribution "squid"
powered by 3s 4000mah lipos

AUW is 1500g on the nose with a battery and no video payload, and estimated thrust is 4400g; lifts off the ground with under half throttle

Just finished putting it together. Going to take it out tomorrow (weather permitting) and get the gains set in!

This is mine...

FC : KK Plus
Motor : 2212-1200kv
ESC : HW 10A
Prop : GEMFAN 9x4.5

Regards

I had a Turnigy Integrated Micro Quad which once broke and then it was unfixable as the broken parts continued to break again as soon as the quad touched something. No amount of glue or CF rods helped.

So I wanted to have a new one, which is about the same size (maybe a bit larger).

Here the as-complete-as-possible shopping list for my small quad (which turns out to be larger than expected):

• 750mm 6mm CF rods from HobbyKing
• Balsa wood, 3mm thick, about 200x75mm from LHS
• Glue (epoxy usually)
• 4 Motor mounts from Chris Moon
• 16 M3x6 screws (better: M3x8) from LHS for the motor mount
• Plenty M3 hex nuts from LHS
• Plenty M3 spring washer from LHS
• Plenty M3 plastic standoffs of various size
• 4 Park300 motor 1380KV from HobbyKing (incl. Prop adapter)
• GemFan 7035 7x3x3 from GotHeliRC (black and orange, both CW and CCW)
• Multicopter power distribution board from GoodLuckBuy
• 4 SimonK Brushless 12A ESC from AbuseMarK
• Naze32 from AbuseMarK
• 3S 2200mAh from HobbyKing

How to build the frame

Cut the 6mm CF tube into half and cut one into half again. Ideally split it into 3 pieces so that the 2 short pieces are the same length and together they are 6mm (the diameter of the tube) shorter than the long tube. What works well to cut them is a Dremel.

Cut balsa wood into squares: 75x75mm (for top and bottom) and 70x70mm. Cut the smaller ones diagonally and glue 2 identical triangles together. Check that the wood fibres are alternating left-right and forward-back like plywood does.

Put the carbon tubes in diagonally and glue them all with epoxy. What you should have now is a square piece of wood with 6 carbon tubes sticking out its diagonals. It’s right and rigid enough for a small quad.

Assembling everything

I have everything in this order from bottom to top:

1. Below main base frame: battery straps attached with screws, and rubber foam. Simple battery holder.
2. On main base frame in the corners: ESCs attached with zip ties (drilled holes left and right the ESCs and pulled zip ties through them)
3. Drilled a hole along the sides of the base frame M3 screws inserted from the bottom. Fix with washer (large as balsa is soft) and spring washers, and on the top side washer, spring washer and nut. Then some space left (as I used long M3 screws), hex nut, spring washer, power distribution board. Then nylon threaded M3 spacers.
4. A GF plate with 45x45mm holes. I could have used anything, but I had this handy.
5. On this GF plate I put one of those sticky things. It’s very sticky, and supposed to absorb vibrations (usually earthquake like vibrations though). I figured it’s worth a try to solve 2 problems: attach the Naze32 FC to the frame and isolate it as much as possible from motor/prob vibrations.
6. In a corner of the CF plate I put some sticky velcro. The counterpart on the receiver.
7. The some nylon spacers, and a GF protection ring

After setting up the Naze32 flight controller with the latest baseflight software (r202), everything worked out of the box. Later I changed looptime to 2000uS for for general interest on my side than anything else.

The result is a quad which works very well in acro mode, and well in level mode. The baro works too. Mag not tested.

Needs about 70% throttle to float, which is a bit more than I expected. It also makes 2S batteries difficult or even impossible to use.

Important things to note

1. I used balsa wood because it’s soft and light. But next time plywood will be used. Or GF or CF for the bottom/top face of the main frame board.
2. I’ll make the base board larger so nothing has to stick out (like the receiver does now)
3. Need a Naze32-to-KK-size (45mm square) adapter, preferably with vibration absorption
4. My guess is that if the battery is with the FC on a board and that board is isolated from vibrations, it’ll be less vibrations for the FC. It might inadvertently lead to something like this as you cannot stack boards as I do now, so you need to work along the other axis.
5. 1 motor was clearly more out of balance than the other ones. A zip tie fixed that to a manageable level.
6. All props need balancing. 3 blades props are a bit more troublesome to balance, but look at this and for smaller props this. Until I balances them, hovering in level was not working well. It worked, but just barely.
   I need a proper prop balancer. The one I have is of cheap quality and the rods and screws are out of balance, which makes prop balancing more dependent on those instead of the propeller.

Originally Posted by soulpatchfilms

This is my first quad. Nothing hand made, but built from parts purchased seperate if that counts.

Quadframe 155mm landing legs
Quadframe 2 axis gimbal

Very stable even in high winds, great features on the FC

may i ask where did u get these ?

quadframe.com/us

My moddest multirotor evolution collection