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Old Jan 18, 2015, 10:06 PM
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United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
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Originally Posted by full flaps View Post
Why the need for 4 aileron servos? Other than not needing the push rods tying the upper and lower wings. My 60" Pitts has an incredible roll rate with just 2 aileron servos. With a $70 price tag for the MatchBox, plus the cost of 2 additional servos, I'm thinking of skipping the 4 aileron configuration.
I've flown accidentally with one of the servos unattached and found the roll sluggish.

You don't need a matchbox if you use 8ch receiver or programmable servos like 7245MH.

The Beast 60e is already a pain to setup at the field with the 4 separate wings... are you going to complicate it further with top-bottom connecting rods?
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Old Jan 19, 2015, 06:35 AM
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Springfield, VA
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Yeah, the extra 20 seconds it would take to install aileron connecting rods would be a real killer...
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Old Jan 19, 2015, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by pmisuinas View Post
Yeah, the extra 20 seconds it would take to install aileron connecting rods would be a real killer...
It all adds ups and is another point of failure.

The Sebart Miss Winds biplane design is infinitely simpler and more reliable than the Beast. Both have 4 aileron servos, but the Miss wind keeps the top and bottom wings as single pieces and connects everything via 5 carbon rods. No screws except for the single one for the bottom wing! I keep losing Beast screws (I use a magnetic tool to fish them out) and the servo extensions constantly fall inside the wing so I'm spending minutes trying to dig it out.

I love being able to subtrim each aileron servo so even I know I should reprogram the servo's center for optimal usage.
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Old Jan 19, 2015, 02:03 PM
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United States, FL, Orlando
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My Beast fits in my truck with the wings on. Its nice never have to connect or fish for anything. Put the batteries and off i go to the wild blue yonder.
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Old Jan 19, 2015, 08:52 PM
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United States, MA, Scituate
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Do you use a Y connector from the BEC to the Rx and the Matchbox for power? I'm guessing that means removing the signal wire from the connector that goes to the Matchbox.

Also, anyone have issues running the Matchbox closer to 7v instead of the its rated 6v? I see all kinds of views on this, and I'm curious how the Beast folks are handling it.
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 11:48 AM
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Gobig.......As you have read there are a number of ways to go on the e beast. First I have a Talon 90 on mine and it works fine. You can set the output to 6v or 8v. I like to keep things simple and straight forward. You can review the debate on wing servos by seaching on my user name rppoind. in this thread. One of the things you need to consider is HV vs regular servos. HV servos are designed for 2s lipos and are usually more expensive and the trendy solution. I think a lot of guys kind of follow what the "name" flyers use, but they are a way to go. since you are starting out it makes some sence.
I have a lot of older but quality Lv servos from past projects. Also you can pick up good used top end Lv servos for a fraction of original cost. These I send in for service at Horizon or HiTec. Service from both are good and usually reasonable. Avoid crash damage servos. This is why I use mostly LV servos. If you want a seperate battery for your Lv flight system use a 1100 mah A123. If you go Hv a 2s lipo of similuar capiticy. You leave the A123 in your plane. You set up the lipo so that you can remove it for storage and charging. You will need a good charger like a cell Pro 10 for your 6s flight batteries. It can also charge the A123. There are a lot of good chargers available, but get a quality one.
I will close by mentioning that I am only using 2 channels on ailerons by using matched (or programed) servos. If you have additioonal questions let me know.
Richard
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for all the info, Richard. This was a lot easier when I just grabbed my Kraft system and installed it - NEVER EVER had a problem with that over hundreds, if not thousands of flights. This thread is HUGE with tons of different options. That's why I figured I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation. Of course, then the engineer in me started to see the conflicts in their recommendations. Hence my questions.

As of now, I'm going with the recommended servos because they are a similar price to the Hitec. Talon 90 for ESC/BEC, and a matchbox running at 6 or 7 volts. I'm debating on wiring up a backup receiver battery with a diode just in case.

I apologize again for what are probably repeat questions. Believe me, I search around this thread A LOT, but i found that the vast majority of the setups are done because it was the stuff people had around. I'm starting over and looking for a good setup to build on. I spent years flying my Deception pattern ship (along with many others). Now I'm getting my kids back in along with a fun aerobat for me. I have very little interest in 3D, but I love bipes.
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 11:18 PM
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gobig....Kraft GM was my second radio, after my EK log 1. Yep I been doing this a while. The important thing is to have fun with this stuff and this sounds like what you are up to. The 60 e beast is not a great 3 D but a beautiful pattern type plane with a great in flight presence. Keep your airspeed up on landing and you will do fine. Enjoy and please lose the diode idea. We stopped using those 20 years ago. enjoy and best of luck.
Richard
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 08:51 AM
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Yeah, I'm having a blast. Half the fun for me is the build and setup. Unfortunately, I don't have a good place to build, so I'm sticking with the ARFs for now.
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