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Old Jul 01, 2015, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dialfonzo View Post
Yaw Rate ..
Don't know how i didn't see that block. I was looking down at the block above the reset button. what is that rate block for?
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotnum View Post
Don't know how i didn't see that block. I was looking down at the block above the reset button. what is that rate block for?
Here we go:
http://www.multiwii.com/wiki/?title=RC_rates_%26_expo
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dialfonzo View Post
Yaw Rate ..
And thanks for pointing out the obvious for me.
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by lotnum View Post
And thanks for pointing out the obvious for me.
It's not obvious
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Old Aug 14, 2015, 11:29 AM
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I'm a recent owner of a Flip 1.5 based quad and can fly in ANGLE mode when the drone is facing away from me, but I'd like to start to use HEADFREE mode to do 360 degree pans with the drone's video camera. I see the brief descriptions of MAG, HEADFREE, and HEADADJ modes but Google hasn't found me a description of the procedures for using them. I calibrated the compass (and the Windows GUI confirms that it's working). I've got a switch on the transmitter set so position 1 is no MAG, no HEADFREE. Position 2 is MAG AND HEADFREE. Position 3 is MAG, HEADFREE, and HEADADJ. I assume position 3 is used just for a moment to set the new heading and then I'd go back to position 2. So I've been taking off in Position 1 (nothing), then hovering and set to position 3 for a few seconds, then position 2, but I don't notice any difference in the controls when I turn the drone around, right stick still means the quad's right, not right compared to where I had it in HEADADJ.

I assume I'm doing it wrong. Can someone point me to any documentation on the correct procedure for using these modes, and what's the correct combination of modes to configure for the aux switches?
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Old Aug 14, 2015, 02:03 PM
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MultiWii WIKI is the best documentation although not exacty complete especially with these advanced features.
Paul's RTF Wiki also has a good tutorial and may have info on these modes.

Then search the MultiWii forum and study the source code to see exactly what it does.

Last:
Those flight modes may require an Magnetometer which the Flip 1.5 does not have. You could add the Mag board Paul sells.

Better is to not depend on these 'gimmics' and learn to fly in any orientation.
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Old Aug 14, 2015, 02:13 PM
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Should have mentioned that I purchased my Flip 1.5 with the "Pimp My Flip" option which adds baro and compass.

I did look at the Multiwii Wiki (http://www.multiwii.com/wiki/?title=Flightmodes) and the page that Paul calls a Wiki (but really isn't one) and both explain what the modes are, but don't really go into the procedures for using them - do I always need to go to HEADADJ before going into HEADFREE?
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Old Aug 14, 2015, 04:51 PM
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I listed all the places for info that I know of and that there is NOT much good info on these modes.
You need to do the Searches I recommended and read, read ask questions (on the MultiWii forum is better) and then Experiment to find out how these work.

I DO NOT use Baro, Mag or Acc (Acro Only) so don't know the details of how to use those modes.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 09:23 PM
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To all the PID experts -- if there are any!

I'm wondering how to eliminate the "jitters" (side-to-side vibes on the Roll axis) when under full or almost-full throttle. 4S is terrible, 3S is bad.

This is on a quad, ZMR250, MWii 2.3, MWii Flip 1.5 FC. 2200kV motors, 12A RotorGeeks ESCs.

My PIDs are stock, other than I decreased the Roll "P" from 3.3 to 2.4, increased the Pitch "I" (for some reason when I decreased the Roll "P", I needed to increase the Pitch "I" for it to hold proper Pitch angle in Acro mode).

Quad flies locked in, nice and smooth, until I quickly ramp up the throttle, or give 8/10-10/10 throttle. Then it gives the quick side-to-side (Roll axis) jitterbug until I lower the throttle.

I've tried all kinds of things like increasing TPA (made it worse), increasing/lowering the master "Rate" -- increased made it worse, lowering made it a bit better.

Thoughts?
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 09:45 PM
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TUNE the PIDs.
Default PIDs are just barely close enough to get in the air. Does sound like the 'P's need to be a good bit lower for 3S. 4s needs even lower 'P's.
If the PIDs are correct then TPA should get rid of oscillations at high throttle.
Did you also set when TPA starts to kick in?

Could also be motor/prop vibrations of even frame oscillations.

Also be aware that the Flip 1.5 is NOT a high performance FC. It works fine for gentle copter and may NOT work well for high performance copters. A ZMR 250 even with 3S is high performance and 4S is very high. This is why the newer fast processors and newer PID control algorithms in CF.
If you want to stay with MW FC then go to the FLIP Pro. The Flip 1.5 (Atmel 268) can only do a looptime of about 3000us, a Flip Pro (Atmel 32U4) can o 2100usec. I run the Flip Pro on my Warp Quads and they fly well but the PIDs are much lower than default and even lower with a 4S battery.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltr View Post
TUNE the PIDs.
Default PIDs are just barely close enough to get in the air. Does sound like the 'P's need to be a good bit lower for 3S. 4s needs even lower 'P's.
If the PIDs are correct then TPA should get rid of oscillations at high throttle.
Did you also set when TPA starts to kick in?

Could also be motor/prop vibrations of even frame oscillations.

Also be aware that the Flip 1.5 is NOT a high performance FC. It works fine for gentle copter and may NOT work well for high performance copters. A ZMR 250 even with 3S is high performance and 4S is very high. This is why the newer fast processors and newer PID control algorithms in CF.
If you want to stay with MW FC then go to the FLIP Pro. The Flip 1.5 (Atmel 268) can only do a looptime of about 3000us, a Flip Pro (Atmel 32U4) can o 2100usec. I run the Flip Pro on my Warp Quads and they fly well but the PIDs are much lower than default and even lower with a 4S battery.
Thanks for the response. Seems you're recommending to LOWER the PIDs from stock settings of 3.3. OK -- what do I need to look out for when I do so? Will "I" need to be increased? What about "D"? I've been flying MWiii for almost two years, but never on a 250 or with 4S. Never really had to do much PID tuning, they always flew "acceptable" with stock. Now that I'm trying to go fast, and do some aerobatics, PIDs are grinding on me. I took about eight test flights today, wound up going back to stock settings, which worked better than any of the "recommended" settings I've found online. I've thought about Flip Pro, but heard some negativity -- like I should just go Naze 32.
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Old Aug 31, 2015, 07:47 AM
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What negativity on the Flip Pro? The only thing I've heard is the smaller FLASH memory size makes it not support GPS features. For a Acro/Angle modes only the Flip Pro works great.

There are lots of tuning threads. The 'mini PID tuning from start to finish' is very good, it is CF & BB but the methods work for MW also.
My Warp Quads do run lower than default PIDs. On 3S 'P's are about 3.0 and for 4S about 2.6 with more TPA.

Remember that MW supports multiple Profiles (needs to be enabled in the code) and these are a good idea to use if you switch between 3S and 4S as the PIDs will be different.

You will just need to learn to TUNE the PIDs. This does take some time and study but is well worth it. Even if you go to a new FC board and firmware you need to Tune, no way around this.
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