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Old Feb 20, 2015, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hohensej View Post
When i flew my Neos in those winds i'd start with around an once but it all depends on what your empty weight is. When it was really blowing i'd put around 3 oz in it for an AUW of around 12.5 oz. Normally though an once to 1.5 ounces is sufficient.

James
Thank you. That will give me a starting point to work from
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Old Mar 01, 2015, 12:07 AM
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I'm really happy to see everyone still enjoying their Neos'!! What a nice flying plane.

The heaviest I flew my Neos was at around 320 grams IIRC, with most of the flying around 280 grams. My lightest Neos was 223 grams and it was way too light... the lightest I liked them at was around 250 grams.

Have fun and please continue to share your experiences with it!
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Old Mar 04, 2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ThomasLee View Post
I'm really happy to see everyone still enjoying their Neos'!! What a nice flying plane.

The heaviest I flew my Neos was at around 320 grams IIRC, with most of the flying around 280 grams. My lightest Neos was 223 grams and it was way too light... the lightest I liked them at was around 250 grams.

Have fun and please continue to share your experiences with it!
Just got a used one as my first full size DLG, came out to 301gr total and she fly great!
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Old May 10, 2015, 10:20 AM
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Spring install on my new tail, 0.5mm wire, 25mm center leg, installed legs into short aluminum tubes. I chose this spring design because it's more reliable than the in-line design which tends to flip around on occasion and requires a piece of tape to prevent it doing otherwise.
Is this spring simply a piece of wire with L bends on either end? It is then placed inside the tubes and relies on torsional tension to "spring" back into place?

Is the wire glued into the tubes?

Should I use this same design for both elevator and rudder?
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Old May 10, 2015, 11:46 AM
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On the Wing to Fuse Quik Connect.... I see that we use a 4 pin connector and allow the servos to "Share" leads. Does this mean that both aileron servos will be controlled by a single channel in the RX and TX? Or are the leads separated before connecting back into the RX in some fashion so that the ailerons can be controlled by two separate channels?
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Old May 10, 2015, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by YellowJacketsRC View Post
On the Wing to Fuse Quik Connect.... I see that we use a 4 pin connector and allow the servos to "Share" leads. Does this mean that both aileron servos will be controlled by a single channel in the RX and TX? Or are the leads separated before connecting back into the RX in some fashion so that the ailerons can be controlled by two separate channels?
shared positive negative connections - signal wires need their own pin

you can also just use the signal wire on one connector back to the RX as the power come from the other connection
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Old May 10, 2015, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by YellowJacketsRC View Post
Is this spring simply a piece of wire with L bends on either end? It is then placed inside the tubes and relies on torsional tension to "spring" back into place?

Is the wire glued into the tubes?

Should I use this same design for both elevator and rudder?
Yes the wire is shaped like a sharp C, but you'll need to shape it between a C and a S (as the C shape will be too strong a spring and will put too much tension back onto the servo). The spring is simply placed into the tubes (gluing is not required, as you'll now and again need to remove the spring for adjustments)

Another tip I'll give is make the pull spring wire setup as simple as possible. My first attempt I used was an adjustable system that was fiddly and caused problems all round. Just last night changed it to a very simple setup with 0.5 fishing trace wire (or beading wire) and crimps. Simple and a whole lot more accurate than what I originally had on the rudder. Now today going to set up the elevator with the same system too.
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Old May 10, 2015, 05:56 PM
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Thanks for the help guys.

Masterpiece do you simply adjust the string tension in place and then apply crimp? I have no ability to install crimps. I do have kevlar string. Can I simply tie a square not on each end?
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Old May 10, 2015, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by YellowJacketsRC View Post
Thanks for the help guys.

Masterpiece do you simply adjust the string tension in place and then apply crimp? I have no ability to install crimps. I do have kevlar string. Can I simply tie a square not on each end?
Pull the string taught - put a small drop of ca on it - then kicker. pop the servo arm off when the CA kicks - tie the string off using a series of knots then ca the lot . put the arm back on. DONE

what I do is use a wire extension - z bend at one end and small loop at the other - you can then glue the string the wire and it doesn't ruin your horn
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Last edited by gtrbaby; May 10, 2015 at 07:20 PM. Reason: coz
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Old May 10, 2015, 07:34 PM
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Pull the string taught - put a small drop of ca on it - then kicker. pop the servo arm off when the CA kicks - tie the string off using a series of knots then ca the lot . put the arm back on. DONE

what I do is use a wire extension - z bend at one end and small loop at the other - you can then glue the string the wire and it doesn't ruin your horn
Perfect. I CAN do that!
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Old May 11, 2015, 03:46 AM
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Perfect. I CAN do that!
Yes it is that easy. My first set up consisted of a modified Sullivan clevis, drilled threaded inset (with a double ended swivel soldered on), then a ring that the Kevlar thread was attached via a fishing knot.

But after watching Paul Natons latest Radio Carbon Art DLG DVD (the one with the Snipe), and seeing all you need to do is a simple crimp with beading wire (I prefer 0.5mm plastic covered S/steel fishing wire). It's simple, fixed and accurate. Not adjustable BUT if you need to adjust it, just cut it off and redo it.
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