My new spectrum radio has mixing capability of the rudder and aileron to make coordinated turns. Does anyone have an ideas at to what that ratio should be. I have tried 75% rudder to aileron and am not sure that is correct. Seems to dive a lot in the turns.
Thanks for your ideas.
farmetom

Originally Posted by farmertom

My new spectrum radio has mixing capability of the rudder and aileron to make coordinated turns. Does anyone have an ideas at to what that ratio should be. I have tried 75% rudder to aileron and am not sure that is correct. Seems to dive a lot in the turns.
Thanks for your ideas.
farmetom

I put in 30% of rudder to aileron. Works OK for me.

Originally Posted by farmertom

My new spectrum radio has mixing capability of the rudder and aileron to make coordinated turns. Does anyone have an ideas at to what that ratio should be. I have tried 75% rudder to aileron and am not sure that is correct. Seems to dive a lot in the turns.
Thanks for your ideas.
farmetom

I don't use any rudder/aileron mix, see my response to your post in Bixler 2 thread.

What do u think about the new 1.1 bixler?
No more weak spot near canopy since servos are moved back. I like it

Originally Posted by theo_mich

What do u think about the new 1.1 bixler?
No more weak spot near canopy since servos are moved back. I like it

Put me down for two...

Just in at HK International warehouse, Improved Bixler version 1.1:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16544

Stop Press!!



Allow us to introduce the Bixler V1.1 with a myriad of improvements over the original Bixler.
Our v1.1 features relocated elevator and rudder servos, now closer to the tail and accessible via a magnetic hatch on the underside of the fuselage. Why? you may ask - This allows much more usable space inside the front section of the fuselage, something that FPV'ers are going to thank us for! We have also updated the included hardware to include better quality components, such as the new 4 bolt control horns on all surfaces. We also include 2 different propellers, one for high speed and the other for carrying heavier payloads.
You - our customers spoke, we listened! The end result is the Bixler V1.1!

Whatever you are looking for, the Bixler has it covered, also included is a color instruction booklet.

Specs:
Material: EPO Foam
Wingspan: 1400mm
Length: 925mm
Wing Area: 26dm2
Wing Loading: 25g/dm2
Flying Weight: 650g
Motor: 2620-1900kv Brushless Outrunner (Included)
ESC: 20A w/BEC (Required)
Servo: 4 x 9g (Included)

Required:
20A ESC
4 Channel Radio (Tx/Rx)
1300mAh 3s Lipoly Battery

PRODUCT ID: HK-SS-ARF

This product available from a warehouse near you!

What settings (break, cut off, start, etc.) should be used on the 30 amp ESC for a Bixler V1.1 ?

Thanks

What are people thinking of the Bixler 1.1?

I had basically written the Bixler 1 off as my first plane since it seemed it required a lot of tweaks to negate the cheapy parts and things such as wings coming loose.

The 1.1 seems to have addressed some of this:
Better control horns
Move servos for more space
wings bolt in from the top (an improvement over the Bix 2?)

Additionally i've heard that the wing spar is different in that is has a solid carbon rod insert that you fit inside the existing tube, it's about a foot long from what i've heard.

Can anyone confirm that these improvements on the wing spar and fixing using bolts are sufficient?

It seems like there's even less difference between the Bix 1.1 and Bix 2, the 1.1 has better spar and fixing of wings, bix 2 has better hinges, longer wings and plastic protection on the belly. Am I missing anything?

Originally Posted by farmertom

My new spectrum radio has mixing capability of the rudder and aileron to make coordinated turns. Does anyone have an ideas at to what that ratio should be. I have tried 75% rudder to aileron and am not sure that is correct. Seems to dive a lot in the turns.
Thanks for your ideas.
farmetom

So does real planes. The basic of a turn is to balance the aileron and elevator to achieve a turn of required radius without loosing or gaining altitude. Most plane also tend to "push out the nose" in a (so called) un-coordinated turn. This is where the rudder comes in; By applying a little rudder into the turn, the plane will turn more "cleanly".

On my EasyStar, I have programmed a 30% mix from aileron into the rudder. That is, when I apply full aileron, the rudder moves only a little.

In real planes you often also increase the power a bit when entering the turn. This help maintain constant airspeed and - to some extend - prevents loosing altitude. Furthermore, you normally don't select a bank angle of more than 30 degrees if you are approaching or departing at low speed, as the wing lift is decreased. This prevents stalls.

Originally Posted by ColSonders

What are people thinking of the Bixler 1.1?

The 1.1 seems to have addressed some of this:
Better control horns
Move servos for more space

It seems like there's even less difference between the Bix 1.1 and Bix 2, the 1.1 has better spar and fixing of wings, Bix 2 has better hinges, longer wings and plastic protection on the belly. Am I missing anything?

Wing spar and bolts I can't confirm as they were already fitted to the one I worked on yesterday. My own kit should arrive next week as it has been in the air for 12 days so far - next week with with luck

Yes the horns are better as they have bolts through the surfaces so hopefully can't fall off.

The servo move more likely will reduce pushrod friction as they are shorter. They also can't "pop-out" of the groove when pushing.

The matter of hinges has NOT been addressed on the V1.1.

A clear canopy and pilot were on the one I saw so hopefully the pilot provided can help out when things go wrong ?????

Originally Posted by Mac50L

A clear canopy and pilot were on the one I saw so hopefully the pilot provided can help out when things go wrong ?????

Yeah I was quite pleased with the idea of that little guy being able to bring my plane back for me if I lose it, I wonder if you can wire the "autopilot" into an auxiliary channel on the RX.

Once you get yours i'd appreciate feedback on what you think of the new design of the wing spar and bolts.

Also I've not decided yet whether to get an ARF or KIT version, the cost between the two is pretty much negligible once you add the parts to the KIT version, though I could get a more powerful motor. If you're getting the ARF version feedback on the build of pre-installed components would be good too.

I'm holding off from pulling the trigger on this purchase at the moment anyway as we've got some pretty bad weather here at the moment so got a week or two to finalise decisions on what exactly I want to buy.

I got my new Bixler V1.1 ARF for Christmas and because the weather has been cold and windy (W Mich), I have been taking my time in setting it up. I'm new to foamie airplanes and wanted to get it right.

The 1.1 looks really nice and with the new modifications seems to be quite solid. I put a 3mm spar in the horizontal elevator as some blogs recommended and it is solid now. I did not put a spar in the vertical rudder as the 1.1 rudder is quite solid already (I think they beefed it up a bit). All 4 servos seem nice and solid and centered well with my sub-trim (Dx6i). I used 5 min epoxy to glue the horns in place.

I did use 5 min epoxy to glue the tail elev and rudder on. I was at first going to use the nylon bolt method, but decided against it as I didn't want to take the chance that the bolt/nut would pull out in flight.

I initially just used 3M Extreme tape all around the fuse because I thought it would be easier to separate the 2 halves if ever necessary. But I then discovered that the fuse moved too much at the seams. That flexing made it hard to slip the wings in properly, which also probably means too much flexing during flight. I then put double sided tape (thin strips) all around on the fuse seams and internal support blocks. That made the fuse very solid and eliminated the flexing. The wings slip in easily now. If I crash and have to get into the fuse again, I'll probably glue it with contact cement to make a really solid hold. I then re-taped all seams, especially on the bottom, with 3M Extreme packing tape.

I added about 3 inches of wire to my 3 ESC motor wires because the stock motor wires are really short and I wanted the ESC further forward to make it easier to get at. I installed my Orange 6 ch receiver and placed it up front just under the cockpit door. Bound and tested - all is well.

The last thing I'll do is find a solid CF spar to fit the entire length of the wing tubes to give the wings more support (as suggested in blogs). Though the original setup with the short CF rod that came with the 1.1 probably works just fine.

I also had a problem getting the wing bolts to line up so that they could be tightened down. I opened up (with a small dremel grinding wheel) the wooden washers in each wing and now they slip in fine. They hold the wings on very nicely and everything is ready to test glide, then fly.

I can't wait for the wind to die down and perhaps it warming up a bit so I can test and fly. I hate trying to use the TR sticks with cold fingers (and gloves don't hack it-I'm too old at 71).

I've got a kit coming to replace the original Bixler. Just too much glue versus foam after the last crash. Possibly due to the elevator push-rod tube popping out of the groove and not giving up elevator. Experience can mean really "good" crashes, not just a bent bit of foam.

Originally Posted by warp45

I used 5 min epoxy to glue the horns in place.

On my old Bixler I ended up wiring the horns as well as glue. As the wire or the provided screws on the V1.1 go through the surface and "clamp" the horn on so there's no chance of it coming off. Glue can break (I know).

I did use 5 min epoxy to glue the tail elev and rudder on. I was at first going to use the nylon bolt method, but decided against it as I didn't want to take the chance that the bolt/nut would pull out in flight.

Talking to another owner yesterday, experienced flier. Only crash with his new Bixler V2 was when the tail came off due to the bolt coming undone!!!

I added about 3 inches of wire to my 3 ESC motor wires

Not a bad idea as you might want/need to change it.

Originally Posted by Mac50L

I've got a kit coming to replace the original Bixler. Just too much glue versus foam after the last crash. Possibly due to the elevator push-rod tube popping out of the groove and not giving up elevator. Experience can mean really "good" crashes, not just a bent bit of foam.



On my old Bixler I ended up wiring the horns as well as glue. As the wire or the provided screws on the V1.1 go through the surface and "clamp" the horn on so there's no chance of it coming off. Glue can break (I know).



Talking to another owner yesterday, experienced flier. Only crash with his new Bixler V2 was when the tail came off due to the bolt coming undone!!!



Not a bad idea as you might want/need to change it.

And it makes it easier to get the motor out if I ever want to upgrade it.

Thanks for the confirmation.

I also have used my Dx6i ACRO Normal setup to program in a bit Flaps under its Flaps feature. I put in about 15% to give the elevator just a slight up for when I do a hand takeoff and a landing. I just flip the Flap/Gear button on the Trans down to activate and up to turn it off. It saves me the worry of having to launch then immediately getting on the sticks. Works great.

Originally Posted by warp45

I got my new Bixler V1.1 ARF for Christmas and because the weather has been cold and windy (W Mich), I have been taking my time in setting it up. I'm new to foamie airplanes and wanted to get it right.

I initially just used 3M Extreme tape all around the fuse because I thought it would be easier to separate the 2 halves if ever necessary. But I then discovered that the fuse moved too much at the seams. That flexing made it hard to slip the wings in properly, which also probably means too much flexing during flight. I then put double sided tape (thin strips) all around on the fuse seams and internal support blocks. That made the fuse very solid and eliminated the flexing. The wings slip in easily now. If I crash and have to get into the fuse again, I'll probably glue it with contact cement to make a really solid hold. I then re-taped all seams, especially on the bottom, with 3M Extreme packing tape.

(and gloves don't hack it-I'm too old at 71).

Warp,

Just got my V1.1 a couple of days ago. We must have ordered them about the same time from the first batch to hit the US warehouse. They didn't last long.

I was wondering about joining the fuselage halves too. Mine came with just a bit of double sided tape, which was easy to break loose. The old Bix 1 ARFs came with the fuselage glued. I want to retain the option of opening the fuselage, because I'm getting a GPS module to go with the Frsky telemetry receiver, and I wanted to be able to mount that aft, as well as having an easy way to upgrade the motor in the future, if necessary. Your method sounds like a good one.

I want to pick up some blenderm tape to reinforce the hinges.

Haven't decided about carbon fiber yet.

I need to lay out the whole project tomorrow to find out what bits and pieces I need to pick up at the LHS.

I'm a sprightly 62. Us ole' f@rts need to stick together!

Rob