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Old Apr 16, 2012, 08:11 AM
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United States, MS, Starkville
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Question
Lightweight Paint without airtools?

Does anyone know of a lightweight paint that doesnt require the use of an airbrush/gun? Preferablly a spray can of some sort?

Want to spray a carbon plane so compatibility shouldnt be an issue.... but weight most certainly is

Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 08:30 AM
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TomCrump's Avatar
Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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Rustoleum aerosol cans lay down a nice coat of paint. They are high hide, which means that they cover well, recquiring fewer coats.

The paint is glow and gas resistant. I've been using Rustoleum myself, but I spray mine using an HVLP gun.

All 3 models in the pics below, are painted in Rustoleum.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 11:41 AM
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The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Joined Oct 2002
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Keep in mind that ANY colour paint is invariably heavy due to the pigments. But the finer the pigments are ground the better the covering power seems to be. For example Floquil model railroad paint is expensive but an excellent paint. The coverage is better than most so you can use less. But they are all flat for the final finish as far as I know. So you end up needing a clear coat to seal and give a gloss finish.

A lighter colour, such as white, will often require a lot of paint to cover something like a black carbon surface. But silver, as a colour, seems to cover far better with much less pigment needed. So you may find that shooting a very light coat of silver over the carbon fiber first and then the white or other lighter colour will save you from using more than these two coats of the lighter and poor covering colour.

Finally I know you didn't want to hear this but an airbrush or small automotive touch up gun can atomize the paint far finer and give a better coat than any spray can. So you would find you get the coverage you want with less paint applied. By restricting yourself to aerosol can products you limit your options and set yourself up to end up applying maybe a quarter to third again as much paint to get the finish you desire.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 03:53 AM
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Oh, and after seeing some of the painted planes at my field, it's very much worth a mention and what you paint onto has to be as good as you want your finish to be if you want it light.

If you're relying on the paint to gloss over all your nicks, bumps, gouges, high spots, joins and woodgrain, you'll add so much weight you'd be better off making a boat.

Before you decide to paint as opposed to say, covering (vomit!) understand what needs to happen to get the finish you desire, so you don't go overweight.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 06:38 AM
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Thanks everyone for the help... I'll certainly check out the Rustoleum as its the cheapest & easiest option.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare View Post

Before you decide to paint as opposed to say, covering (vomit!) understand what needs to happen to get the finish you desire, so you don't go overweight.

Not sure if the covering comment was sarcasm or not, but I actually enjoy covering. I've applied covering to fiberglass before and it didn't seem to adhear too well as it does with balsa. Maybe there is a type of primer (for the lack of a better word) that would make the covering a real hard non-porus surface a little better? But as far as cheap & easy, I imagine you can't beat a rattle can.

I'm aware of preparations that are needed to make a decent finish.... what is it, 90% prep work and 10% painting or something like that? I'm going to see how lightweight spackle adhears to the carbon, then a whole bunch of sanding & finally some painting if the flight goes well this weekend.

Thanks again everyone
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:20 AM
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I wouldn't use lightweight spackle. Leave that for wood surfaces.

Automotive paint store carry an inexpensive product call spot putty. It is designed to fill small dings in hard surfaces.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:50 AM
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United States, MS, Starkville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I wouldn't use lightweight spackle. Leave that for wood surfaces.

Automotive paint store carry an inexpensive product call spot putty. It is designed to fill small dings in hard surfaces.
Thanks for the tip. I'll checkout that spot putty.

I'm actually planning on flying it before I paint it because its a scratch built with my own design so want to make sure it flys before I spend too much time making her pretty
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Perth, Western Australia
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You gotta watch the weight with putty. I tried mixing lightweight spackle with a bit of water based paint (to make it more brushable). I applied it to fibreglass and it worked OK. It was quite hard but the finish wasn't super smooth like putty.

It would be really great if someone could invent a lightweight but brushable filler that is soft enough to sand easily, hard enough not to scratch easily, doesn't melt foam or shrink or swell balsa, sands to a really fine finish and is dirt cheap.

I'm a consumer. Somebody cater for my modest needs
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scaledown View Post
You gotta watch the weight with putty. I tried mixing lightweight spackle with a bit of water based paint (to make it more brushable). I applied it to fibreglass and it worked OK. It was quite hard but the finish wasn't super smooth like putty.

It would be really great if someone could invent a lightweight but brushable filler that is soft enough to sand easily, hard enough not to scratch easily, doesn't melt foam or shrink or swell balsa, sands to a really fine finish and is dirt cheap.

I'm a consumer. Somebody cater for my modest needs
Well.... after hearing some of these comments I may just mix up some West Systems & overload it with microballoons. It's pretty much all those things you mentioned... I did a little reading on West Systems web site and they say you can thin with Alcohol. I may try this as its not structurally significiant, but if I can stuff as much microballoons in the epoxy as possible it may get me a nice lightweight body filler.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:17 PM
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Once again, a little warning, if you add microballons to your epoxy, you may find that when you sand, you open one side of the microballoons and suddenly you have a nice big cavity to fill with paint.

My adivce would be use a dedicated pinhole filler (like spot putty), but I'd lay a coat of primer down to see what kind of surface you have, you may not need much.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 09:23 PM
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Note that most primers are intended to be wet sanded down. As a result they are heavy with filler and pigment. The best way to use primers on models where weight counts is to apply some then wet sand most of it off. In the case of pinholes in a fiberglass or similar surface you want to leave the primer only in the open pores and just a whisp of primer color over the rest. It should look downright transparent at most when you're done.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 10:50 PM
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^ this.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 07:58 AM
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I've been experimenting with a spot putty from Evercoat (Ever-Glaze & Spot Putty). Its in a big 16oz tube for about $10, one part, no mixing. Dries fast and is ready for sanding in less than an hour. Work time is pretty short so apply in small amounts. Sands very easy. I've used micro balloons with epoxy and wasnt too happy with it, sands like oak. Finish reson and micro balloons works better, sands like hard balsa. But this Evercoat spot putty seems the best at this point. I'm using it to pretty up a window frame on a Navy Cub.
Edwin
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 09:36 AM
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I've used the Evercoat product on my last 6 builds. I'm quite satisfied with it.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 05:01 PM
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United States, MS, Starkville
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Any idea where to get the evercoat locally? (ie which chain stores may carry it?)
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