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Old Apr 05, 2015, 06:33 PM
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Question for experts

Boys and Girls,

I ordered a Pulsar Pro 3.6 and as you might have already guessed it came to me as a F3j version as opposed to the Electric version.

However, I love the colors and I love the quality of the build and my question is:
Can I simply buy an Electric fuse and go for it
Are the two fuses similar enough so that I can simply cut off the nose to 34-40 mm in diameter

I'm planning on using Neu 1105 with a 5:1 Reisenaour gear box (104 grams) with a 850 mah battery with a Phoenix 54 ESC. I also plan to use an isolated Rec/Servo Battery. Four MKS 6100's and 2 MKS 6125's for the Flaps.

I'm hoping to bring it in a t 1225 gms AUW.

Thanks for any input and Happy Easter
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Old Apr 05, 2015, 09:24 PM
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jbitz
That sounds like a great combination all the way around. My 3.6 REF uses the 1105 with a P29 6.7:1 gearbox with MKS 6125s on the flaps and Hyperion DS09s for rudder and elevator.
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Old Apr 06, 2015, 04:19 PM
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Itching to fly. Have yet to get up this year.
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Old Apr 06, 2015, 07:58 PM
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F3J conversion

Note that my recent build post is an F3J 3.6 Pulsar.
It will also fit my 3.2 REF E-Pulsar fuse. My thought is in light winds, I can use the 3.6 wing. If the wind is up, I can go back to the 3.2 center section and get a bit more loading. I also have a big (2700mAh) battery and the huge 1115 Neu motor to help penetrate our windy flying season here in New England. I have some small 1800mAh batteries for light lift. As you might guess, I don't worry about keeping it light - this airframe is so light and stiff all it needs is a bit more mass to keep it flying. The 3.2 REF worked well for me last year in several breezy ESL contests and I'm hoping the 3.6 wing will perform similarly but with more penetration and control.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post30873687

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbitz View Post
Boys and Girls,

I ordered a Pulsar Pro 3.6 and as you might have already guessed it came to me as a F3j version as opposed to the Electric version.

However, I love the colors and I love the quality of the build and my question is:
Can I simply buy an Electric fuse and go for it
Are the two fuses similar enough so that I can simply cut off the nose to 34-40 mm in diameter

I'm planning on using Neu 1105 with a 5:1 Reisenaour gear box (104 grams) with a 850 mah battery with a Phoenix 54 ESC. I also plan to use an isolated Rec/Servo Battery. Four MKS 6100's and 2 MKS 6125's for the Flaps.

I'm hoping to bring it in a t 1225 gms AUW.

Thanks for any input and Happy Easter
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Last edited by bafbob; Apr 06, 2015 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 08:34 AM
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Hey gang.
Hoping somebody here can help me.
Maybe some don't read classifieds.
I posted in sailplanes wanted ad for center panel for 3.2-3.6 and no hits,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2394822

They have to be out there.
I really don't even know where to start with the one I have.
I'm afraid that if I do it'll come out like frankenpulsar.
Most of the parts are there and right side has only 2' long rip in covering.
Left side as you can see has major damage to spar, d-box, and ribs.
Thx
Rob
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 07:01 PM
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C section repair

I have done some major repairs on my 3.2 REF. center section (see my posts) and check out Espiar's many helpful posts. Start with the spar and splint it with hefty carbon and jig it straight. Then work out the D-tube and TE keeping everything clamped and true. Several folks have posted their experiences here and most repairs have been covered. If you can't find a replacement you might try the repair.
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Last edited by bafbob; Apr 22, 2015 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robusp View Post
Hey gang.
Hoping somebody here can help me.
Rob
Rob - maybe you should get together with Louis (see post 1437) - he wants tips and you want centre- and you can buy whole wings

Should you decide to rebuild - I can give a method of pre-treating Carbon/ Kevlar so that it stays together and holds its shape when moulding around ribs and so that it can be pre-cut precisely to a pattern.

Steve
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Last edited by Espiar; Apr 19, 2015 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Espiar View Post
Rob - maybe you should get together with Louis (see post 1437) - he wants tips and you want centre- and you can buy whole wings

Steve
Steve, at $845 +sh is little steep.
For that kind of money I'll attack my center section.

Rob
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 09:33 PM
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Repairs

As 'Bafbob' says - there is a fair bit of advice and once you get the Spar sorted then cutting ribs, inserting Kevlar hinge etc. is just plain painstaking work. the D box is 183 gsm C/K cut at 45 degrees wrapped around 1/16 in balsa ribs. Photos are of an experimental piece of this material that has had the finest surface coat of lay up resin - just enough to hold it all together without reducing bonding or laying up - similar in treatment to the carbon cloth often referred to as 'profinish'. You can cut a template out of thin card or 150 gsm paper and get an accurate piece to epoxy on.

hope this is of assistance.
Steve R
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Last edited by Espiar; Apr 21, 2015 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 12:10 AM
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Steve.
I got the cloth on order.
It'll prolly take some experimenting to get the coat just right.
Should I try to make an insert or replace whole d-box.
Was thinking of cutting away at 45deg. To cover whole break it would be like 5" wide.
Do a piece 1" wide on both sides, half of it under original cloth and half ready to take new piece.
Started cleanup and removing some of the covering around damaged area.
Should start taking pics.
Rob
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Old Apr 25, 2015, 03:51 AM
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D Box Repair

Be good to see the pics Rob.

It all comes down to how well you want it to look when finished. You can do a patch as you said and it will work but will always be visible. The length of the section is about 700mm (about 28 in) so you can get a piece out of 1meter wide cut at 45 degrees.

The following is only if you wish to do the full section and firm up the K/C a little so that it can be handled without distorting/ fraying etc.
I simply got a flat piece of PVC type plastic, made up some layup resin and spread it as thinly as I could scrape it out on the plastic - even letting it form fine droplets. and then laid the reverse of the K/C - cut a little oversize - on this making sure it was laying straight and true. I then turned upside down and carefully peeled PVC film off and allowed to cure (you won't even see the resin). Result is shown in the photos two posts ago. You could try a small piece first.
Alternatively you could do it the way I was advised to do it from a supplier (UK) which I quote as follows:

" A very rudimentary method is to use a minimal application of conventional hairspray; this is a simple method and does help to hold the fibres together but it isn’t perfect by any means.

An alternative would be to make an Invisible Epoxy coating.

1. Start with a clean, small plastic ‘spritzer’ bottle (any openable plastic bottle with a pump-action mister spray, like for hair-care products).
2. Mix up 10g of infusion resin with 3g of infusion hardener and pour into the bottle.( I read this as layup resin)

3. Add 10g of methylated spirits to the bottle (it must be purple meths, no white spirit, acetone, alcohol or anything else).
4. Shake the bottle thoroughly.
5. Spray a minimal, thin film of the spray tack over the reverse of the fabric.
6. Allow the meths to evaporate and wait around an hour or two for the epoxy to start reacting when it will become particularly tacky; leave it longer and it will firm up in the same way as a profinish material would.
"
I think it should be allowed to firm up - it is still flexible but holds together and allows you to cut accurately.

I should have said earlier that to cut K/C you need Kevlar shears - very good quality scissors with fine serration on edge of one blade to stop the K from sliding - ordinary scissors will make an awful frayed mess.
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Last edited by Espiar; Apr 25, 2015 at 04:19 AM.
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Old May 03, 2015, 11:10 AM
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I've got to celebrate my 74th birthday with a tribute to my Pulsars.
Day dawned with frost on the roofs, which finally changed to + 13 deg C by noon.

Had a 20:15 flight off 12 sec run on my Hyper 2.3m Electric. Then 22:30 off an 11 second climb with my 3.2m Pulsar REF. Then 15:45 from my Pulsar 1.8m Ail/Elev. on an 18 second climb.
On top of this I had 10:30 with my DJI Hexacopter.
Unfortunately the field was not big enough for my fleet of Free Flight models.
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Old May 03, 2015, 06:45 PM
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Happy Birthday John, good to have you on-board...
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Old Yesterday, 05:37 AM
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Flight of the Pulsars

Sounds like a great day!
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