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Old Dec 14, 2012, 12:28 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Break for Christmas

I've had my orders to clear the table for Christmas (still a week to go but who am I to argue?!!).

Outer panel went together easily, I did seem to be missing a pair of laser cut ribs, just made some new ones.

I've had a weigh up of the parts so far as I like to know if I'm on target.

Fuselage and joiners - 85 g

Tailplane - 5 g

Right inner wing panel - 19 g

Right outer wing panel - 12 g

Timer - 20 g

Total = 141 g

Add another wing = 172 g

Covering, dope and nose ballast to add. The box lid gives a minimum weight of 220 g, I think this is an FAI class limit. It feels quite heavy to me so I'm doing what I can to keep the weight down.

That will be it until after the holidays, I won't blog the other wing (unless something goes wrong!).

Cheers and Merry Christmas

Gary
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 09:05 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined Jan 2010
935 Posts
Cool!

Cool stuff!!!

I still think it would be pretty cool to make some sort of Nordic inspired 2M 2ch R/C glider, ultra slow and floaty but with a 3rd channel for a dethermalizer on the elevator instead of spoilers in the wing. Something that flies way, way too slow to be real to the r/c glider fliers accustomed eye and something that comes down "wrong" to their sensibilities also.

Adios - Paul
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 12:54 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Still going!

Slightly later than planned but I'm back on it, had a push this week to build the other two wing panels.

The wing parts didn't really slot together, the ribs had varying depth tails that didn't match the trailing edge and all the spar slots needed adjusting with a file. Not a biggie, just a note to prospective builders.

The supplied ply dihedral braces are wider than the gap between the spars (5 mm where they should be nearer 4 mm) and all the spar webbing strip is 5 mm so this also needed thinning down.

There is quite a lot of hardwood strip left over, bit of a mystery as the quantity for other parts was exact. Can always be used for something!!

Wing panels are not joined together at this stage. Another minor annoyance is that one wing panel is not at 90 degrees to the fuselage in plan view, the joiner tube must be slightly out of line which is strange as I used a set square to fit it?!! Will just bend the wire slightly.

Weight at the moment is 176 g so I was close with my earlier guess, it will need some noseweight as it is balancing near the rear lower spar.

Have to think about covering soon.

GB
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 10:57 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,779 Posts
Beautiful! I won my first trophy with an A1 called a Lil Dip in 1963... Is this available in the U.S.?
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 03:22 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Thanks. Don't see why it couldn't be imported, I tried the Hacker website just now as I thought they had a list of worldwide dealers but I couldn't find it.

The UK company that provided my kit are showing three in stock and mention international shipping.

Just waiting for tissue now really, there is tissue in the kit but it looks 'strange', fairly heavy and perhaps a synthetic type. Only white is provided and I'd like to finish it as the box art. The tissue (Japanese) is being bought by a friend who is visiting a free-flight meeting this weekend.

GB
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 06:03 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
1 Posts
Hacker FLy in South Africa

I'm also busy finishing my Fly.

I've been quite impressed with the attention to detail and quality of the kit. Went together rather quickly. I also have few pieces of spruce remaining.

Hoping to fly it at our first South African free flight "nationals" in about 20 years
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 06:31 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Good stuff and welcome to RC Groups!
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 09:02 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined Jan 2010
935 Posts
Cool!

Cool stuff indeed!!!

Adios - Paul
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 02:09 PM
Light and floaty does it
Work in Progress's Avatar
Cambridge, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Sep 2004
2,859 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Binnie View Post
The UK company that provided my kit are showing three in stock and mention international shipping.
Only two in stock now, because I have one here. Nice little kit, and unbelievably good for the money. I am sure they must have mis-priced it. Anyway, my gain...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Binnie View Post
Just waiting for tissue now really, there is tissue in the kit but it looks 'strange', fairly heavy and perhaps a synthetic type. Only white is provided and I'd like to finish it as the box art. The tissue (Japanese) is being bought by a friend who is visiting a free-flight meeting this weekend.
As you alluded to above, 220g is the F1H class minimum legal weight and given the weight of the basic airframe it is likely that the heavier and possibly more robust covering is merely a substitute for unproductive dead ballast which provides no durability advantage. If it feels heavy, so does any legal A1 / F1H glider. However, I have no intention of flying mine in contest, so may also end up using Esaki, though actually I can feel a mylar / tissue combo coming on for the wing. I think what I'm actually going to do is fly it radio-assist - rudder only for direction after the nominal DT time is up, or to stop it flying out of the field, and a radio-operated DT. Tow it or light bungee, and let it fly free, intervening only where failure to intervene would lose the model. Like that, it will be a good thing to take on holiday and take to Old Warden.

Great thread, this - I would never have known about the kit without you posting it up, and now I have the benefit of yoru building tips, so thanks!
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 05:24 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
And they were worried that they wouldn't sell the five they had to import! Think a club member is going to get one as well.

Pushed on a bit today, covered the tailplane and forward fuselage (instead of painting which it looks like the original was).

Was itching to get the auto rudder and dethermaliser working so spent a few hours messing with very thin monofilament (provided in the kit).

The auto rudder is a balancing act of rubber band tension, too much can bend the aluminum stop, another tiny problem was the hook needed bending slightly to stop the forward band popping off too easily.

Just the wings to finish off now, more sanding etc. Was thinking of covering each panel separately, not sure if the tissue would have a good grip on the thin ribs at the joints.

G
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 06:50 AM
Light and floaty does it
Work in Progress's Avatar
Cambridge, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Sep 2004
2,859 Posts
*Somewhere* I have an unused KSB timer of my own, which has been in the box since about 1976. I have to say, it does look good sitting in the nose there.

I see a genuine one goes for about £30 on eBay these days.
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 11:39 AM
SB-28 UK Display Pilot
GeeW's Avatar
ENGLAND
Joined Jul 2001
2,463 Posts
Some very tidy covering there Gary.
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 12:31 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Pure fluke!!

It's Esaki which is nice to work with, two coats of 50/50 dope/thinners on the structure (sanded between coats) then the same mix used to attach the tissue to the perimeter only.

Water shrunk in the steam of a kettle then one coat of 50/50 dope/thinners avoiding the edges (in case the thinners unglues it).

GB
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 12:47 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,868 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Work in Progress View Post
*Somewhere* I have an unused KSB timer of my own, which has been in the box since about 1976. I have to say, it does look good sitting in the nose there.

I see a genuine one goes for about £30 on eBay these days.
May as well use it as it still needs noseweight. This one is also from 1976 or 77, my dad was going to use it to control some kind of throttle cutout device in this free-flight Lancaster (yep, free flight, all 102" of it!!). Flew twice (in a fashion), Bill Dennis mentioned it in the first edition of the revamped 'Aeromodeller' mag last month.

I needed three rubber bands on the tailplane to provide enough force to tip the tailplane up against the friction of the line where it does a 90 degree turn at the rear of the fuselage, fairly confident that it is 100% reliable (he says!). The tip angle is controlled by a plastic tube stop on the line, if this fails the tail will come off so I added another stop further forward.

I might redo the control lines using aluminium tube crimps.

GB
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 02:50 PM
Light and floaty does it
Work in Progress's Avatar
Cambridge, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Sep 2004
2,859 Posts
I've seen that Lancaster before: it is a fearsome and wondrous device.

To be honest I always find Esaki much easier put on wet, rather than apply it dry and attempt to water-shrink it once it's on. I cut the panel that I want, then wet it under the tap or by skimming it through a dish of water, then mop it gently between a couple of supermarket spongy cloths (this sort of thing - http://www.tesco.com/groceries/Produ.../?id=260332445 ) which gets off any excess water and ensures nice even damping, then just ease in into position onto the pre-doped structure and use a fine brush with dope thinners to get it to stick on. It's a lot easier than it sounds, and you do tend to get a really nice smooth well-shrunk surface that way. If you're covering a delicate tailplane made out of 1/16" square, then you have to be quick about getting the second side done and pin it all down to dry to prevent warps developing. But on something relatively big and chunky like this you have a bit more time. The key is pre-cutting all the tissue panels ahead of time and having the balsa structure well pre-doped (sanding sealer is fine too, obviously).

When I am doing small models with small tissue panels then I pre-moisten several panels and leave them sandwiched between two layers of damp sponge, then you can be very quick getting each panel applied.
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