Originally Posted by e_lm_70

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7565

This or similar (70mAh or 80mAh) .. look better match

I guess you run your #11 naked

Even a 50 mAh cell is a bit heavier than a booster, and it would need to be charged (or swapped) before every flight ... which is not very convenient.

Yes, I'm using the #11 stripped-down ... this was when I was running it straight from the flight cell:



The quad did handle the weight of the camera's internal battery OK, but I had to replace the motors and with the new ones (which are official spare parts) it really struggles. Hence I need to lose some weight

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Even a 50 mAh cell is a bit heavier than a booster, and it would need to be charged (or swapped) before every flight ... which is not very convenient.

Yes, I'm using the #11 stripped-down ... this was when I was running it straight from the flight cell:



The quad did handle the weight of the camera's internal battery OK, but I had to replace the motors and with the new ones (which are official spare parts) it really struggles. Hence I need to lose some weight

I put my #11 without no modification on my SH 6043 ... and it fly fine ... but just for the time that the battery is strong enough (more or less 90 seconds)

Personally, I will go for an additional 50mAh battery, this will allow longer fly time, since the #11 is reported to consume 200mAh + the waste of the booster ... you are taking away quite some power to the micro quad ...

So ... stripped + 50mAh battery (even a 80mAh since 50mAh is not on stock) ... sound a better approach

Charge the battery ... is simple .. you can let the #11 charge the battery for your, via the USB connector .. or you connect to the charger of the microquad ...

Anyhow ... in my case ... I order a Sh 6047 with 6 motors ... that should be able to handle more load

I was looking this quad as you have, since has very good review ... but ... I decide to skip it ... the SH 6043 fly good enough for my taste

Quad pulls approx 2400 mA so camera's power consumption will only shorten the flight time a little. I have 7 flight packs for the quad so having to wait for anything to charge would be a nuisance.

I have a much bigger quad and a bigger still hexa that would not notice an 808, but I wouldn't be popular if I flew them in the house

So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).

quite a find, thanks to both of you for sharing.
Mike

I'm puzzled about where the 5v will be used.

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).

That little device looks neat. It could also be useful to regulate voltage, both down and up, to power the camera from an external 4 cell NiMH pack.

But being a switching regulator, I wonder if it will have an RF noise issue with FPV video transmission? Might need to add a choke which would add some weight? Please post how this works for you.

Originally Posted by victapilot

I'm puzzled about where the 5v will be used.

To power the camera via the mini USB plug.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

To power the camera via the mini USB plug.

Will that work without the internal battery?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

To power the camera via the mini USB plug.

Actually I will connect it direct to the PCB (where the battery leads go as standard). I did this before and it worked fine apart from the camera shutting down when the flight pack voltage dropped under load. Had a micro JST plug/socket in the flyead so I could remove the camera from the quad.

Obviously the clock gets reset every time I change flight pack, but I have the timestamp off so it's no big deal.

I did consider RF noise as a potential issue ... both for the #11 and for the quad. I will have to try it and see. Not worried about FPV interference though ... no AV out on #11 (mine, anyway)!

As I understand, that was from the flight battery, 4.2v max. Now it will be 5v plus or minus the tolerance of the regulator. I would personally add a diode in series to drop it a bit.

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Actually I will connect it direct to the PCB (where the battery leads go as standard). I did this before and it worked fine apart from the camera shutting down when the flight pack voltage dropped under load. Had a micro JST plug/socket in the flyead so I could remove the camera from the quad.

Obviously the clock gets reset every time I change flight pack, but I have the timestamp off so it's no big deal.

I did consider RF noise as a potential issue ... both for the #11 and for the quad. I will have to try it and see. Not worried about FPV interference though ... no AV out on #11 (mine, anyway)!

I wouldn't advise this method. The board was not designed for a 5V input to the battery terminals. I have a #11 where too much voltage was applied and it blew the DRAM. You may be lucky in the short term but you will certainly be over stressing the components. Put a diode in series like victapilot suggested and you'll be on the safe side.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I wouldn't advise this method. The board was not designed for a 5V input to the battery terminals.

Surely when connected to USB approx. 5V is applied (via the board) to the battery terminals, in order to charge it?

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Surely when connected to USB approx. 5V is applied (via the board) to the battery terminals, in order to charge it?

No. The USB connection goes thru a charging IC on the board.
I don't know what happens when 5V is applied to the "special" USB connection (record and charge), most probably thru resistors or a regulator. The battery circuitry is certainly not built for 5V. I haven't traced the "special" connection.

I agree with Isoprop. The first thing I would do is check the voltage from the regulator. Some time ago, I checked a lot of USB chargers which are nominally 5v, and found all on the high side, around 5.25v. One was 5.5v.

But maybe 5v will work for you, pls let us know.