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Old Dec 22, 2012, 06:53 PM
I did it...
av8ersteve's Avatar
Morganton, NC
Joined Jun 2005
758 Posts
Air traps....

Once again guys, I have read that I need to use a good air trap as air bubbles will cause a flame out. I'm thinking of this one for the RAM 750. Comments?

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Old Dec 22, 2012, 07:57 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Sep 2003
86 Posts
That will work; so will this one for a bit lower price:


A number of different choices at DreamworksRC, including the one you asked about:

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Old Dec 22, 2012, 08:02 PM
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Dr Honda's Avatar
Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
Joined May 2004
1,190 Posts
Marc at GBJ makes a very good product. You can buy them in the USA from Todd at DreamWorks.


The only thing I don't like about them, is that they aren't rebuildable. Generally... it's not an issue... but I like to be able to get into them. Don't take that as a negitive... it's just a personal preference.

My choice would be a Hanson. It will save you a few $$$... and you can open it is you think there is an issue.

Just as an FYI... I've made my own too. I use a felt clunk (Walbro) and a small Du-Bro tank. Winds up costing you about $15 to make. (and they work just as good) I was having flame out's with my T-45, and the only way to solve it was to make my own. (The little Wren 44 engines are VERY sensitive to air) Also... since my T-45 is so small... I wanted to save weight... so I built it with a 2oz tank.

You can see it under the main tank.

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Last edited by Dr Honda; Dec 22, 2012 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 08:22 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,427 Posts
I dont like the GBR one for three reasons. They are expensive! You cant service them, and you cant see if there are any bubbles in the trap.

A UAT is a very simple thing. Later after you have more experience you could make your own as Honda has done. But for now just keep it simple and get a standard 4oz tank from dreamworks. Dont buy them with the Festo fittings though! They will leak(suck in air) after time. I know cause that is what just happened to me resulting in a dead stick on take off. Only use ones with barbed fittings and get the High Flow version. Also do not connect the fuel line from the UAT to the fuel pump with Tygon. Use the harder plastic type(cant remember the name of it right now) Tygon will collapse on the suction side of the pump.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:10 AM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Ireland, Donegal
Joined Nov 2003
1,336 Posts
I always make my own, never liked the BVM UAT no matter what I done it always had a bubble of air in the corner, and the price is just crazy.

All is needed is a centre pickup header tank, which can be made easily from a 4 or 6oz fuel tank. I like the Dubro 6oz ones as they sit flat. See diagram I have drawn below.

You need some 4mm (5/32) Brass or Copper tube, and a sintered Bronze or felt clunk if you wish. I simple join my 4mm pipe to the clunk with some tygon and then wire tie it.

I always add a piece of tygon with a V cut in it, to all my vent pipes when I make up any fuel tanks. The V prevents any chance of it getting blocked off and also stops the tank getting damaged if the brass tube is too close and rubbing against it.

When filling you can see all the bubbles heading out the header tank and into the mains, if there are any left it is just a matter of moving the model about till the bubble shoots out the vent to the main tanks.
That is what the red circles are for on top of header tanks in the pics below, so I know where the vent pipe is.

Never had an issue with a tank like this after hundreds of flights, in fact JetCat Germany show using a centre pickup tank in their manual.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
10 Posts
Aip Trap

They look like good air traps but I always stick to what I see everbody else use. Most professional pilots use the BVM Airtrap. This is what I have used without issue. The last thing I want is an airtrap that causes problems and a flameout!!!!
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