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Joel |
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Latest blog entry: Eflite UMX Sbach 3D on 3s - 2300Kv/5043...
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I'd say that 90% of the cutouts on 3S, if they were occurring, are fixed by adding a heatsink to the FETs and the VR on the brick. I added a very tiny scoop to the bottom of the plane where the aileron wires go through. Quote:
Here is a video of how to add the XP-12A: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=801 Some people have 0 problems ever when running 3S. some bricks are just more sensitive than others. Quote:
The Beast glides slightly worse than the average brick. Deadsticking the Beast is much harder than deadsticking a heli. -Brian |
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
5,186 Posts
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-Brian |
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Latest blog entry: Eflite UMX Sbach 3D on 3s - 2300Kv/5043...
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Because i wasn't sure until now if 2S or 3S i've only got one 2S180 lipo.
But i did maiden the beast a few days ago in front of my house. It's really funny, the beast seems to be the only plane which is adapted for practicing autorotation. I will try 3S. Ordered lipos, heatsinks, thermal adhesive and some other stuff like connectors and wire. In case the brick in my beast doesn't like the 3S: What's the max current at WOT on a 3S setup with 2500KV and 5030? Not over 6 Ampere? If so, the turnigy plush 6A might be interesting. It's very light. Operating the esc will be easy: There is a connector on the brick for channel 5. I programmed a mixer in my tx from channel 1 to 5 and checked it with a another servo, it's working. So flashing of the esc would be unnecessary. |
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