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Old Mar 29, 2012, 03:00 AM
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Near Fleetwood, lancashire, UK
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thanks docyard...these are the bits I enjoy doing the most.
neil
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Near Fleetwood, lancashire, UK
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A few days before I went away on holiday I decided to give the Mary Stanford and the H F Bailey a coat of paint on the engine casings and fore cabins.

Because I had painted the "wood effect" cabins with a varnish I decided not to spray an undercoat using cellulose, so decided to give two coats with Humbrol acrylic No. 127, and brush paint on with my new expensive ( and I mean expensive) camel hair brushes................what a b***** mess.........the acrylic paint ( i used it because I couldn't find the corresponding number in enamel humbrol locally) and which I have never used before went on smeery, it grabbed on the "last" brush full, and plucked off the paint of the last stroke, and left such an uneven coat that I decided to wait till holiday time and try locating some enamel "down south".

But it niggled me to leave such an uneven mess on my model so decided to wet and dry it smooth................even using 800 grade wet and dry, with fairy liquid in the warm water, it just plucked at the paint, and in the end took off more, in patches than what was left on the casings.............so just to satisfy myself that I wouldn't come back to a mess and think about it all whilst on holls, I took it all off except for minor areas which I'll do before repainting with brush enamels that I obtained from a hobby and toy shop in Rochester, Kent.

So in the next day or so will finall take off all remaining acrylic and repaint with the stuff I'm used to.

They say these things are sent to try us, and that we learn by our mistakes...............I do!!.......will never use acrylics again.......don't like it, full stop!!
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 05:20 PM
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It is a shame but I also often find the new improved safer version typically is no where near as good as what it was ment to replace. I do not know if that makes me older by remembering the “good old days” but lets be honest if it is not broken why fix it.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
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Good to see you have returned safely from holiday ! ( one never knows when one might be in the wrong pub and be pressganged back into service ).
I have to admire your starting over with the clear coat, that sounds like ALOT of work.
Yesterday I put krylon clear coat over the krylon white/black on th MLB and clinched my teeth hoping the clear coat wouldnt attack the colors and blister the whole boat ...
It came out OK.
As for camel hair brushes, they are good but much too expensive for me ( I can understand why they are so expensive, I have heard that camels would prefer not to be plucked, and resist the process forcefully ).
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 05:09 AM
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I've had some camel hair brushes for the past 20 years and are just about coming to the end of their lives.......so I reckon this new set will see me out, lol.....

I always wash mine out after use with some washing up liquid or soap in the palm of my hand and wash the brushes this way............they can last a long while this way, rather than just using white spirits.........as white spirit doesn't get up to the top of the bristles as well as stippling the brush onto soap, and it is here that the paint gathers, cloggs and goes rock hard over a period of time....thus reducing the movement of the bristles in the brush.....and you end up with a crap brush finish.Plus, the soap always seams to soften the bristles for next time use
neil.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 02:24 PM
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I decided to give repainting a miss for a little while whilst I pluck up courage to do it again......so decided to add the scupper freeing ports inside the well decks of the Mary Stanford.

I am using port holes with two bars from the Metcalf Mouldings Rother class lifeboat for these as they are very similar to the valve covers, and saves making new covers, then moulding and then casting them...call it modellers licence.

first I needed to get hold of an 18mm forstner bit to cut the recessed round holes ( not cut all the way through the timber deck, but I needed them to sit flush to the deck floor.

The port holes were two thick in profile so needed to sand off the basic thickness from under......and I needed something to hold them with whilst sanding on my disc sander, ( as sanding by hand would have taken an eternity.)

Some years ago I picked up a wire stripper in the middle of the road, but it had broken "teath" and wouldn't work as a wire stripper......but I knew, (even all those years ago, and it must have been 15 years ago that I found it) than one day it would come in usefull for something.......today it did......I sanded and modified the teath and hey presto......great for holding portholes with reinforcing bars whilst sanding.

Next job was to set the forstner bit to cut no lower than I needed, and so masked off most of the bit with a masking tape stopper to allow the port holes to sit just flush with the deck........then it was down to marking off the positions in both fore and aft well decks and drill.

The results are shown below.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Raleigh NC
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I fought the same hole battle about two weeks ago, ended up making a tool for the job,, micro hole saw..
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Near Fleetwood, lancashire, UK
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that's a beauty of a tool Tg....I wish I had the skills to make something like that...it really is a lovely looking bit of kit.
neil.
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Last edited by nhp651; Apr 09, 2012 at 03:57 PM.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Raleigh NC
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its called modeling yourself into a corner and having to find a way out!!! (well its in the tool box if ever needed again)
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Near Fleetwood, lancashire, UK
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I seam to be doing a lot of flitting around from one part of the build to another at the moment and not simply getting down to one particular task in particular, and it all seams a little hotch potch........I have more fittings littering my benches than I can shake a stick at......but they have all been cleaned up, the parts are being dry fitted before painting and once the final parts of the jigsaw have been made, they hopefully in one mamoth painting and gluing session will manifest themselves into three models in one final finished amalgamation.

So today ( well last night to be more accurate) I mixed a couple of packs of Milliput together and made the three fenders which will be moulded.
There is one bow fender for the Mary Stanford and a bow and stern fender for the two Watson class boats.

The blanks were made and moulded to fit into the support brackets and then left to go hard. Today, they were sanded and then templates in card were made for the knitted covers for the fenders.

my good lady wife, who is a champion knitter and can knit virtually any garment from anything, now has the unenvious tast of knitting the three fender covers from the thread I have supplied iin stocking stitch on 2mm steel pins.........not for the faint hearted.

Once they have been knitted, they'll be fitted, bandings put onto the fenders as with the real things, and then they will be moulded in rubber, so that on these boats, the task of knitting fender covers is no longer needed, as they will be shown on the mouldings.
the start of the fenders shown below......the knitting is now in the hands of SWMBO who will knit the shapes of the fender covers to the cardboard patterns.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Oakland Ca.
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Very Crafty ...
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 12:37 PM
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United States, CT, Wethersfield
Joined Mar 2006
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Ha,ha how clever of you Tim
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 04:28 PM
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The good lady is knitting away furiously as we speak....will update on that bit of the puzzle, hopefully tomorrow,
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 06:18 PM
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And now for today's exploits!

The knitting is coming along well but not allowed photographs of the items until all three are done %% %% %%

However, spent today doing another job that needs attention before all things come together , and those were the bench seats for all the aft cabin well decks............I planned to use generic gratings from the Anne letitia Russell kit, edged with some rebated timber that I made years ago, but ran out with two boats so the third one ( the benches for the Mary Stanford) were made from the last pieces I have left of the timber grating that I and a mate produced , again, years ago.

The edges of the white metal gratings were sanded to produce a "V" shape that would fit into the grove of the rebated timber and all was glued with cyano.

next, the legs of the benches ( made from 2mm stainless steel rod ) were bent around a jig to make sure all legs were uniform, and cut to approximate length.....glued into more pieces of rebated timber and then four of them were glued onto the benches......they will eventually have white metal feet glued to them and set into the sides of the cockpits, after some more detailing is done to the insides of the well decks..
the legs were glued to the timber gratings with aliphatic resin, but those being glued to the white metal gratings will be fixed in place using cyano
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 04:51 PM
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been putting the bench seats together today, and needed all the legs to be cut the same length...........................devised a very easy way of doing it without intricate measureing of each leg.........I cut a little length of black tubing to slip over the leg and to the desired length of the leg minus 2mm to take into acount the jaws of the wire snips I was going to use...just slipped the tube over and cut to the end of the tube, through the length of the wire protruding...gave me perfect length every time.
I then glued the legs to the grating using the prefered glue, and then placed the feet onto a sheet of clear waste plastic and glued the legs into them using cyano.

Also whilst waiting for these to set, (and sadly I ran out of white metal feet so have had to order some more from Dave at Metcalf Mouldings) I made up the six boat hooks from the white metal ends from the generic fittings box and 3mm dowel rod and left these to set before sanding, sealing and then painting the shafts either white or blue for the starboard and port sides respectively on the three boats. This painting of the white and blue for the two sides of the boat went back to the olden days when the motive power of lifeboats was either single or double banked ( one or two oarsmen per oar) oars and the Starboard side oars were painted white, and the Port (or Larboard) side oars were painted in blue. The tradition still shows on even the most modern of boats where the boat hook shafts are painted in those distinct colours
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