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Old Feb 05, 2016, 12:46 PM
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Yip , the rear wing fixing are just like you say .
This will be my first edf and I can't wait to get some air over those wings !

Thank you so much for all the help
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Old Feb 05, 2016, 03:45 PM
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The wing fixing is OK till fuselage flexes and then the pins come out of the holes. This is good that it avoids damaging structure but needs just a little addition to be secure in stressed flight. I put a run of tape along that joint. The plastic guide pins slot into - make sure that is well glued in place.

The nose cone - fill with expanding foam and then hollow out to allow nose wheel mechanism to work. The plastic cone is fragile and splinters on a bad landing.

Personally - I removed the wheels and hand launched / belly landed. That's worth maybe another minute flight or 5mph ...

If you want help on setting her for bungee launching - then pm me.

Nigel
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariusPrinsloo View Post
Yip , the rear wing fixing are just like you say .
This will be my first edf and I can't wait to get some air over those wings !

Thank you so much for all the help
Hope the attached helps ....

CoG and settings for surfaces.

If you need a scanned copy of the Lanyu manual ... let me know via PM.

Nigel
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Old Feb 09, 2016, 01:43 PM
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Thank you very much! Apologies for the late reply
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 10:27 AM
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I made a model of the T45 nose cone for 3d printing. You can download the stl model here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1336754

The model has a hickness of 1 mm so it can be a little fragile. I glued internally some foam pieces to strenght the nose cone.
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Old Feb 15, 2016, 04:05 PM
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Make a simple cheap mold

......Or you could simply make a few basic casts of the nose out of plaster of Paris before killing the original irreplaceable flimsy nose and make any number of light weight duplicates. I cast 4 from the nose cone of my new T-45 kit using one $6 box of plaster of paris from Lowes.

Brush a good layer of Dawn into the nose for a release agent, stand it upright in a red solo cup to hold it up, mix up enough plaster ( just a little on the runny side) to fill the nose piece about 1/16" from the lip, fill quickly and wait an hour.

Remove your new PP cast from nose piece mold, fill any voids on the outside of it with drywall mud or spackling, sand the cast to a smooth finish, wax it heavily, brush on some 2 part epoxy and lightly layer with cloth. Wait overnight, Remove your new fiberglass inverted nose mold cast and (A) Wax it heavily and fill with spray foam, remove and core it out, paint it and bash away knowing the identical replacement is easily reproduced.

OR (B) heavily wax your cool new inverted fiberglass mold and lightly brush with epoxy and layer with light cloth, wait overnight, remove your awesome new nose piece, finish and bash away knowing the replacement is easily reproduced.

Here's all the stuff, except the epoxy and cloth or foam. Good luck, Mike
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Old Feb 15, 2016, 10:28 PM
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That is a very good idea!!
Make molds at least, right away...... if not spare nose cones too.

Though in my case, its crash destroyed the entire T-45 so having spare nose cones would be no use.... LOL

....
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Old Feb 16, 2016, 09:04 AM
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WOW! Hey, quite an impressive pile of what looks like a really nice setup. Balsa tails, 4s, batt tray. Bummer. No amount of creative molds will fix that. Looks like your intent was to try and drill down to the U.S.

I just started on the kit last night and began by grinding out the motor mount to fit a 70mm EDF that I intend to fly it on 4s. My previous jets have been so high strung that I was looking for a nice cruiser to possibly adapt to FPV or just cruise around. My intent is NOT to drill to OZ..... but gravity often has it's way.

I haven't read all 370ish pages of this thread but maybe you, or anyone, could just summarize a few main tips from their experience with the T-45 prior to the day of infamy.... Your preferred CG, throws, batt size, most useful mods, quirks, etc. Thanks for any info (from anybody).

I also noticed that there seems to be a plastic shield to form over the intake ports that I didn't get in my kit. Is that a deal breaker that I should try and find or just tape or glass 'em? This whole plane seems exceptionally frail.

Hey, I'd send you a new nose piece with a drill attached but I'm afraid it just wouldn't be enough.
Mike

EDIT: read through all 5pgs of attachments which was helpful. Plenty in there. Found a nice set up summary on pg 106 post# 1578. A few things that seemed like good build tweaks at 1st glance w/o going crazy:

(a)stow RX and batt inside fuse and ditch orig batt box
(b)add secure but removable battery tray with access from removable cockpit w addl cockpit retention mods
(c) 4s 2200 50c batt w 6 blade 70mm EDF and 50a ESC
(d)reinforced tape or carbon rods in tails and wings (OR)
(e) Cover tails and ailerons w "New Stuff" film, or replace w balsa, or at least tape leading edges
(f) MG servos and stiffer rods/clevis' w attn to rod/clevis closure
(g) CG 90mm (fwd limit). 100mm (good for maiden or trainer flights). 110mm ( perfect). 120mm (aft limit where it gets really “snappy” close to the stall).
(f) lightly fiberglass the inside of the nose cone for durability then fill w foam AFTER making a few replacement molds that are easily shaped to a more scale size
(g) hand or catapult launch this plane to keep it simple/clean/light
(h) tweak/clean n sand the foam "nubs" off the whole plane especially the exhaust, line w mylar film or thin water bottle liner, clean n sand intake tubes, and add a cheater hole under wing near frt of fan
(h-2) Add reinforced packing tape to frt and rear wing>fuse joint and main wing leading edge.
(I) add PnT FPV cockpit cam like post #4144 on pg 277
(J) do a range check, proper pre-flt ck and go fly
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Old Feb 16, 2016, 03:51 PM
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The plastic intake bits are just to give those foam edges some more support/protection. It wouldn't really matter to not have them, and you are unlikely to damage them in transport/storage. They won't collapse due to intake suction either.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 05:46 AM
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Just looking at replacing my broken 64mm stringer with this and you've just saved me 300 pages of searching for info I needed thanks Gator brill summary Think if I go with this shell I'll stick with my 64mm I've already got though me thinks.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 10:33 AM
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Sam, Glad it helped. It was kinda OCD but I read the whole thread and was looking for something that summarized over 5500 posts but couldn't find it, much less remember the highlights so I tried to do it up there. The easiest way to cull the noteworthy bits was to eventually review just the attachments (only 5 pgs) and dive in from there. Tons of good stuff shared in there.

Here's my T-45 just finished last night and ready to fly in the next few days when we get a calm day. I applied almost all the mods I had listed a few posts back. Other than that the decals weren't sticky enough, there might have been a mold release agent on the foam, so I misted them with 3M77.

I'll post a flight report, even though there are others buried in the thread. Cya, Mike
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Old Mar 20, 2016, 08:41 AM
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I gave the CAD file to another guy in our club that has a 3d printer and he is having difficulties with it. He said the file seemed to be corrupted, any tips I can forward to him?
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Old Apr 21, 2016, 06:15 PM
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Just got mine yesterday.

Couple of questions:

- How does it fit a normal size 2200mah 3s lipo? The battery door and compartment is small. Does it require some modification?

- Mine came with the ESC in the box and not connected. All three wires are the same colour. What connects to what on the motor?
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Old Apr 21, 2016, 06:32 PM
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I chose to make the canopy removable and put the battery pack inside the canopy. The only way you can tell which wires on the ESC attach to which wires on the motor when the three ESC colors are the same color is to hook it up to the motor and fan unit before it's installed and then run the motor up at a slow speed to see which way the wind blows. In a case like this, I do the testing then apply colored electrical tape the the ESC wires for later reference. Keep the motor speed SLOW for safety reasons.
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Old Apr 22, 2016, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
I chose to make the canopy removable and put the battery pack inside the canopy. The only way you can tell which wires on the ESC attach to which wires on the motor when the three ESC colors are the same color is to hook it up to the motor and fan unit before it's installed and then run the motor up at a slow speed to see which way the wind blows. In a case like this, I do the testing then apply colored electrical tape the the ESC wires for later reference. Keep the motor speed SLOW for safety reasons.
I use different colour heat shrink tube on the lead ends.

Nigel
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